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January 13, 2006

The Mysterious Case of the Christmas Cactus

The Mysterious Case of the Christmas Cactus
Alice Monet

Second only to Poinsettias in popularity at this time of year, colorful Christmas cactus plants appear in great variety and abundance in floral departments, offices, and homes, adding their festive hues and interesting leaf forms to our holiday decorations. For a while, they look spectacular, and their succulent leaves and sturdy stems lead many of us to believe they require very little water and no special care. At last! The perfect houseplant! But then the day comes when the gorgeous blossoms fade and drop. If you want to save your plant and help it to thrive again, you must solve the mysterious case of the Christmas cactus.

The first thing to recognize is that these plants are not true cacti. Discovered in the 19th century by Belgian horticulturist and cactus collector Frederic Schlumberger, the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) is an epiphyte, native to Brazil. It’s found in much the same environment as orchids and has similar needs, growing best in decayed leaves and forest debris that accumulate in the crotches of trees. It requires bright, indirect light, soil with excellent drainage, and fairly high humidity – around 50 to 60 percent.

One way to achieve this is with a humidity tray. Fill a large saucer or tray with gravel and add water until the level is just below the top surface of the rocks. Place the pot of Christmas cactus on top of the gravel. The evaporating water will provide the needed humidity. In our dry climate, you may need to refill the tray rather frequently. The plant itself should be watered thoroughly and then not again until the top inch of soil is dry. It requires less watering in the winter, and more during its growing season from spring to fall. Use a liquid houseplant fertilizer of type 0-10-10 to stimulate flowering in the fall, or during the growing season. Other balanced fertilizers will work but just make sure the nitrogen ratio (the first of the 3 numbers on the container) is 10 percent or below.

Flowering is stimulated by cool temperatures and dark nights. Here in Flagstaff, where chilly weather can happen at almost any time of year, we have enjoyed Thanksgiving cactus, Easter cactus, and even 4th of July cactus – all from the same plant!

Propagation is generally done by rooting cuttings. Short sections of stems may be cut or gently broken off and rooted in a moist soilless medium, such as vermiculite. The plant may send out wiry air roots from its leaf joints. If you break off leaves where these roots appear, the segments will come off with roots attached. Then place the leaves in the rooting medium and keep them evenly moist until they begin to grow.

If your cactus begins to sag despite excellent care, it may just be taking a rest. Keep it in a cool room and limit watering until new growth appears in the spring. This may be a good time to repot, but remember that the plants produce the most abundant flowers when they are pot-bound.

When you solve the mystery of Christmas cactus, you’ll be rewarded with a long-lived plant that graces your home with a colorful display of exotic blossoms, possibly several times a year. It’s elementary, my dear gardener!

By Alice Monet
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension. We are currently accepting applications for the 2006 Master Gardener Training Course that will start February 2. E-mail hbraun@ag.arizona.edu or call 774-1868 ext. 17 for more information or to request an application.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:39 AM

Xeriscape Classes

Xeriscape Classes Being Offered
By Hattie Braun

With record-breaking dry conditions this winter, water conservation in the landscape should be at the fore-front of our plans for gardening this summer. Fortunately, there’s a solution for gardening under drought conditions; Xeriscape - a method of water conservation through creative landscaping. Xeriscape is actually a combination of seven common-sense gardening principles that save water while creating a lush and colorful landscape. As Xeriscape is a method and not a style of landscaping, any landscape can be a Xeriscape if attention is given to conserving water.

Northern Arizona residents have the opportunity to learn more about Xeriscape through a series of classes being offered at Coconino Community College this spring. The first class in the four part series introduces students to the concept of Xeriscape. In Xeriscape I - Concepts and Principles, students will gain a general understanding of all seven principles of Xeriscape and how to apply these principles to their own landscapes. The principles are: planning and design, soil analysis and improvement, mulching, limiting turf areas, efficient irrigation, selecting low-water plants, and proper maintenance. By applying Xeriscape principles to your landscape, you will not only save water, but you will also enjoy the beauty and diversity of native and other water-wise drought-tolerant plants.

After learning the principles of Xeriscape, students can move on to the second class in the series, Xeriscape II - Soils, Mulch, and Compost. Understanding your soil is one of the keys to a successful Xeriscape and a successful garden. Soil conditions can be improved by the addition of organic material. This second class will also acquaint students with mulches as using mulches and covering the soil will minimize water loss through evaporation. And finally, the basics of composting will be reviewed. Compost is one of the best soil amendments for improving your garden soil.

Xeriscape III - Water Management deals with water use and conservation. Learning to maximize water use efficiency in the landscape is essential to a flourishing Xeriscape. A well-planned and well-maintained irrigation system can significantly reduce water use. Participants in this third class will learn about proper irrigation scheduling and maintenance, landscape water audits, alternative water sources and methods to reduce water waste.

Using native and other drought-tolerant plants can significantly reduce water use in your landscape. Xeriscape IV - Plant Selection will introduce you to the many native and low-water use plants that are appropriate for our region and aide you in choosing plants for the many varied habitats found in and around Flagstaff. There are many attractive, colorful, and interesting plants available that will survive on less water; selecting these plants will help you create a beautiful, water-wise landscape.

The four part series will be repeated so if you aren't available for four weeks in a row, you can still attend all the sessions. Xeriscape I will be offered on both April 1 and April 29. Xeriscape II will be held April 8 and May 6. Xeriscape III is on either April 15 or May 13, and Xeriscape IV will be April 22 and May 20. You can sign up for any or all of the four part series. Individual classes cost $20 but if you sign up for the series, the fee is only $65. For more information or to register, call 928-526-7644. All classes will be held from 9:00 a.m. to noon at the Lonetree Campus of Coconino Community College.

Want more information on Xeriscape but don’t have time for a class? There are plenty of Xeriscape resources on the web. One of the best sites is by Xeriscape Colorado found at www.xeriscape.org. This site offers detailed descriptions of the principles of Xeriscape, an excellent reference and resource list, pictures of Xeriscape demonstration gardens, and is applicable to gardening in Northern Arizona. Our public library also has many good books on the subject. For more information on Xeriscape, call Coconino Cooperative Extension at 928-774-1868 ext. 17 or e-mail hbraun@ag.arizona.edu.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for Coconino Cooperative Extension. For more information about the Master Gardener program, call 928-774-1868 ext. 17.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:37 AM

Winter Watering

Dry and warm winters are not only troubling to skiers, they are also tough on our garden and landscape plants. Christmas this year will not be wet nor cold, or even white. While we will get over the lack of a white Christmas, our garden plants may not fare as well. Our plants will benefit from the gift of winter watering.

Long, dry periods during winter can result in death or injury to plant root systems. Since it has been over two months since we have had any precipitation, now is the time to water. Because plants often show no visual signs of drought stress in winter, watering is easily overlooked. Affected plants may be slow to leaf out in spring, or may weaken and die in late spring or early summer. Weak plants are often more susceptible to insect and disease problem later.

While many landscape plants can be damaged by a lack of winter moisture, woody plants with shallow root systems are particularly susceptible. These include birches, many of the maples, mountain ash, spruce, and fir. Shrubs such as non-native junipers, Oregon grape-holly, and euonymus are also vulnerable, especially those growing close to the house or in warm locations. If the dry spell continues, even native plants will benefit from a winter soaking.

Water only when the air temperature is above 40 degrees F and when the ground is not frozen. Apply water early in the day so that it will have time to soak in before nighttime freezing. If water stands around the base of a tree it can freeze and damage the bark. Continue to water at least once a month until we get significant precipitation either as rain or snow.

As a winter-watering guideline for trees, apply 10 gallons of water for each inch of tree diameter. For example, a two-inch diameter tree needs 20 gallons per watering. Measure the tree’s diameter at chest height.

The most important area to water for trees is within the dripline (from the trunk to the outer edges of the trees branches). A common watering mistake is to water only at the base of the tree trunk. Tree roots do not grow straight down like carrots, but rather grow outward so make sure to water the most critical part of the root zone out to the dripline.

A good method for watering trees and shrubs after your irrigation system has been turned off is to hook a soaker hose up to your hose. Loop the soaker hose under the dripline of the tree leaving a foot or two between each coil. As it is hard to measure gallons of water from a soaker hose, leave the hose running until water soaks in to a depth of about 18 inches. You can check the depth of watering with a piece of rebar or a long screwdriver. It will be easy to push in the ground where the soil is moist.

Shrubs will also benefit from winter watering, particularly those that are newly planted. Apply about 5 gallons two times per month for a newly plant shrub. Small established shrubs should receive 5 gallons monthly. Large established shrubs require about 15 gallons monthly.

If you haven’t already mulched, now is a good time to do so, especially with our balmy afternoons. Apply 4 inches of mulch around trees and shrubs to retain soil moisture.

Lawns are also prone to winter damage during extended periods of drought. Even though the irrigation system has been turned off, you can still water using a hose and sprinkler. Newly planted lawns, both sod and seeded, and lawns with a southwestern exposure are particularly susceptible to damage.

Remember to water newly planted bulbs as well. For bulbs, prolonged dryness in winter will result in a poor showing of flowers the following spring. Winter watering is also advisable for late-planted perennials and perennials located in windy or southwest exposures.

The purpose of winter watering is to provide water to prevent the roots from desiccating in the cold, dry ground. It can be hard to remember to water when you don’t have a wilting plant as a visual cue. Since you can’t ski this Christmas, at least near Flagstaff, give your outdoor plants the gift of water. Come springtime you will be rewarded with strong, healthy plants.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for Coconino Cooperative Extension. For more information about the Master Gardener Program, call 774-1868 ext. 17 or e-mail hbraun@ag.arizona.edu.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:34 AM

Fact or Fiction? Are Formosan Termites in Our Mulch

Rumor has it that termite-infested mulch is being shipped out of the hurricane-damaged areas of Louisiana. Apparently an e-mail has been circulating that warns of using these mulches as they may be infested with the Formosan termite. The e-mail states that badly infested trees downed by the storm are being chipped and sold as bags of “cheap” wood mulch. Is this fact or fiction?
There are some elements of truth to this story. Formosan subterranean termites are a serious problem in Louisiana. They are that state’s most destructive pest and cause about $500 million in damage, annually. This subterraena termite can infest trees as well as buildings. And it has beenthere has been one reported that in at least one instance of termites have beenbeing transported accidentally in mulch.
And it is also true that back in October 2005, Louisiana State University's Agricultural Center issued a press release about the potential spread of Formosan subterranean termites through the re-use of wood taken from homes damaged by recent hurricanes. The LSU AgCenter warned that termites could be spread around and out of the state by re-using infesting railroad ties, architectural wood, or other whole pieces of infested wood.

That much is true but much of the rest of the e-mail is exaggerated. Thankfully, only the rumor is spreading fast, not the termite.

A LSU AgCenter press release from two three weeks ago assures us that not everything that we read on the internet is true. According to Bob Odom, the Louisiana Commissioner of Agriculture and Forestry, “the email is not accurate and doesn’t even mention the quarantines this department put in place last fall to keep Formosan termites from spreading.”

Last October, Louisiana imposed quarantines in several hurricane-damaged parishes to prevent the shipment of infested wood to new areas. The quarantine specifically addresses Formosan termite-infested wood products such as mulch. According to the Louisiana Department of Agriculture and Forestry (LDAF), “all of the wood debris in the quarantine areas of the state of Louisiana is going to an approved landfill within the designated quarantine area.” Many inspections are in place to prevent the improper movement of infested wood. Therefore, if wood mulch is being shipped from hurricane-damaged areas, it is being done so illegally. To read more about the quarantine, go to the LSU Ag Center website at: www.lsuagcenter.com/.

That aside, it is unlikely that the termites could survive the mulching process which includes shredding, packaging, and transportation. Mulches are often sold in shrink-wrapped bags that would limit air and moisture. Exposure to high temperatures either in the mulch pile, bag, or in transport will kill the termites. Nonetheless, an Ohio State University Bulletin on subterranean termites states that “the developmental flexibility of termites enhances their ability to disperse and to establish new colonies.” The rumor and possibility of their spread should not be completely ignored.

For northern and high elevation gardeners, cold temperatures will potentially limit the life cycle of these termites by preventing their eggs from hatching. Formosan termites are not tolerant of cold temperatures.Formosan termites are not tolerant of cold temperatures.
While So while it’s extremely unlikely that Formosan termites could be transported in mulch to Northern Arizona, it isn’t completely impossible.
Gardeners, therefore, should inspect bagged mulches for termites. Several extension offices advise against using unlabeled wood products especially if the deal appears too good to be true. If you find termites, return the product. Or yYou can easily kill any insects in the mulch by resealing the bag and placing it in a larger black plastic garbage bag and exposing it to the hot sun for several days. High temperatures >140 degrees F for several hours generally kill all insect life. Mfe.easuring the temperature inside the bag is the only sure way of knowing if high temperatures have been reached.
Another way to ensure that you don’t introduce termites into your landscape is to purchase garden mulch from a reliable, local source. Both the City of Flagstaff and Coconino county County produce mulch from tree trimming and thinning and it’s free for the taking. The city yard at Dale and Bonita has a small pile. Call 774-0668 for availability. You can get information about the pile at the landfill by calling 527-1927. And there is a huge pile of wood chips at Fort Tuthill. Call 226-5638 for the location. Local mulches are a safe fromfree of the Formosan termites and are a great way to encourage recycling of a valuable resource that would otherwise end up in a the landfill.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for Coconino Cooperative Extension. For more information about the Master Gardener Program, call 774-1868 ext. 17 or e-mail hbraun@ag.arizona.edu.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:31 AM

Sweet Onions

Sweet onions, as with Caesar’s Gaul, are divided into three parts, not by taste, but by parts of the country. Some are southern and are called short day varieties. They have the longest growing season, require the shortest days, and are planted early. Some are northern and are called long day varieties. They have the shortest growing season, need the longest days, and are planted later in the spring. The third group of onions is the intermediate day variety which includes most sweet onions except those suited for the Deep South.
Flagstaff is smack dab within the boundaries of the intermediate day variety, but laps over into the short day and long day varieties. As with most gardening questions in Flagstaff, onions leave the high country gardener in a quandary. We can try almost any variety of onion except the Deep South kind such as ‘Vidalia’, a Georgia peach. ‘Walla Walla’ from Washington State works in Flagstaff but may not be as big and lustrous as the ones in the market. At two-fifty a pop, smaller may be just fine. So what else is new?
The intermediate day sweet onions are all hybrids and descendants of the common onion, Allium cepa. Our sweet onions descended from seeds of the Bermuda hybrid onion brought to Texas from the Canary Islands in 1898. The hybrid sweet onions most suitable for the intermediate territory are ‘Candy’, ‘Texas Supersweet’, ‘Cimmaron’, ‘Italian Red Torpedo’, ‘Stockton Red’, and ‘Walla Walla Sweet’. Bermuda onions are seldom grown commercially because of their low yield, but ‘Crystal Wax White Bermuda’ may do well in Flagstaff.
Sweet onions aren’t sweeter than other onions. They don’t have more sugar content. They are less pungent because their sulfur levels are lower. For instance, the sulfur level of the soil in Vidalia, Georgia, is low. Thus, the fertilizer used in the preparation of the onion bed is important.
Sweet onions can be grown from seeds, sets, and plants. Seeds are the least expensive and most unreliable with slow, sporadic growth. Sets are small onion bulbs that have been grown, harvested, and stored over the winter and then marketed in the spring. Sweet onion sets are difficult to obtain. Try haranguing your local nursery.
Plants are onion transplants grown in the South in the winter, bundled in bunches of 50 to 100 plants, and shipped to garden centers in the North and West in the spring. They can be obtained from growers directly through the Internet by searching "sweet onions" or the name of the hybrid. They are the easiest, most reliable, and most expensive to grow. If ordering plants from the growers, the winter months are the best time to order them.
The soil for all types of onions, as with all soil suitable for vegetables, should be amended with organic matter such as compost or seasoned, vintage manure. Onions require a more fertile soil than most vegetables, and the soil should be prepared with an application of 10-10-10 or 10-20-10 balanced fertilizer. During the growing season a 21-0-0 fertilizer should be used. Ample water is important for all stages of growth.
The nice thing about onions is that they can be started as soon as the soil can be worked. Rather than hanging around while waiting for frost’s last icy blast, the high country gardener can plant about a month earlier than the average last frost. Onions are hardy down to 20 degrees which is good news for those who suffer the vagaries of spring temperatures in Flagstaff.
Raised beds are best for onions and just about everything else in Flagstaff. The rows should be about 10 inches apart with the plants 3 inches apart, 1 ½ inches deep. Every other one can be pulled for green onions leaving the remaining onions to mature.
Now is the time to order the plants. Plants can be ordered from Dixondale Farms, phone: 877-367-1015, website: www.dixondalefarms.com or Brown’s Omaha Plant Farms, phone: 903-884-2421, website www.bopf.com/.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:29 AM

Surreal Horticulture

During my internship at UCLA’s Neuro-psychiatric Institute one thing became clear to me. Most of the stuff that really counts is unseen and unheard. In psychodynamic terms the stuff that really counts is in the unconscious. In horticultural terms it’s in the mycorrhizosphere.
The mycorrhizosphere, the soil around a plant’s root, is where the mycorrhizae do their thing, good or bad. Mycorrhizae are literally “fungus roots.” NAU’s Prof. Nancy C. Johnson, a leading researcher in mycorrhizae, calls them “symbiotic associations” or cooperative life-sustaining systems in which both plants and fungal communities around the plant’s roots can benefit. They’re akin in psychodynamics to unconscious associations.
Mycorrhizal associations affect a plant’s ability to acquire mineral nutrients from the soil. When mutualistic, that is, cooperative, the plants gain nutrients with help from the fungi, and the fungi gain carbohydrates from the plants. A balanced relationship of mutual gains for the plants and fungi is something like a functional family in which everyone gets what they need to thrive. However, sometimes a family loses its equilibrium, becoming dysfunctional, when some members are given special attention, good or bad. Plants often need specific chemical nutrients, such as nitrogen or phosphorus, for plant growth or flowering and fruiting. When added to the soil, the balance in the relationship between the plants and their fungal partners can be inadvertently changed with some plants deprived of what they need to thrive.
New Year’s resolutions don’t often work because the unconscious mind subverts the conscious mind. The conscious mind wants to lose weight, but the unconscious mind craves cool, soothing ice cream after a buzz saw day. As a professor once said, “The mind’s like an iceberg, ten percent shows, but that unseen ninety percent calls the shots.” So it is that gardeners should pay mind to those symbiotic associations beneath the garden’s surface.
Paradoxically, it turns out that repeated use of chemical fertilizers can create colonies of parasitic mycorrhizae just as repeated broken resolutions can breed a sense of defeat. It’s called the Law of Unintended Consequences which means that chemical fertilizers are not, as advertised, always horticulturally friendly. Prof. Johnson and her students are discovering that the ratio between available phosphorus and nitrogen may affect the outcome of fertilization. Mycorrhizae seem to be more mutualistic when phosphorus is in shorter supply than nitrogen relative to the plant’s needs.
As common sense tells us, relationships are the key to life underground and in the unconscious. Salvador Dali graphically illustrated the unconscious associations in his early Surrealistic painting Persistence of Memory. Melting watches are set against the backdrop of a horizon in which sky and sea are fused in a timeless continuum. It may puzzle the conscious mind, but the unconscious understands a sense of time melting in the face of timelessness.
Great basketball players don’t deliberately think through their moves, calculating the physics of thrust, velocity, and parabolic curves. They seemingly shoot baskets on the spur of the moment, trusting their unconscious processes with their mutualistic associations of continuing practice.
Mycorrhizal fungi sleep in beds with the roots of a plant, intimately associated with and actually becoming a part of the roots as they help move nutrients from the soil into the plant. They also enrich the soil with organic matter by building networks of thread-like mycelia, interwoven vegetative masses of tubular filaments resembling pieces of modern art or spider webs gone wild. When mutualistic they nourish plants as well as soils.
While our soil on the Colorado Plateau may be short on organic matter, it is rich with many different types of mycorrhizal fungi. Good gardening helps these underground allies stimulate their mutualistic, not parasitic, associations. This means reducing the use of inorganic phosphorus fertilizers and using instead more organic amendments and compost with ample nitrogen and less phosphorus to help the development of mutualistic mycorrhizopheres.
As Plato observed long ago, appearance is not always reality. Horticultural reality is, also, not always in the appearance, but often in the mycorrhizosphere where fertility is natural, not artificial, organic rather than chemical.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:25 AM

The Scoop on Soil

This past winter was so dry, and I was so negligent about watering my garden, I didn’t expect much to survive. Maybe some of the well-established plants with deep root systems would find enough water far underground, but the newer plantings were probably doomed. Then spring arrived and sprouts began to appear. There was some die back, but not the way I’d expected. It wasn’t the established, deep-rooted plants that did the best. It was everything planted in good soil. This winter was a perfect demonstration of the value of really good soil.

In my garden, there are basically three kinds of soil: the native clay loam; some planting beds to which I’ve added lots of compost, manure, and mulch; and a few containers and raised beds filled with store-bought garden soil plus lots of nice amendments. Would anyone care to guess which kind of soil did the best job of protecting and nourishing its plants over the winter?

Our ponderosas and oaks, which are growing in native soil, don’t appear to have suffered much from the drought. Maybe the rain and snow in March came just in time to save them. But the small patch of lawn, which is a mix of blue grass and fescue, turned to dust. It was growing in native soil and that clay loam got so dry over the winter, there was no moisture available to the grass roots. Likewise, in the backyard, also just native soil, almost no small plants survived.

In the garden beds to which we have added compost, manure, and mulch every year, I’m seeing the expected pattern of loss. The established shrubs and native plants seem to be fine, but perennials I planted last season are mostly gone. The spring-blooming bulbs are up, and the early varieties have bloomed, but they all seem to be stunted. Both plants and flowers are smaller than normal.

But here’s the big surprise. The containers planted with perennials and a new raised bed are doing great! In fact, the plants growing in “new soil” are bigger, more vigorous, and blooming more abundantly than the plants in amended soil ever did, even in wet years.

While the lesson learned is obvious, the reason behind it might not be so clear. What does new soil have that my amended soil lacks? I think the answer is, “Everything!” Commercially mixed garden soil, of the kind available in garden centers everywhere, is generally well-balanced and contains essential nutrients, organic matter, and micronutrients. I always add generous proportions of homemade compost, leaf mold, and well-rotted manure, and often mix in goodies such as slow-release fertilizer, fish emulsion, and water-retaining crystals.

This soil mixture has a lovely, light texture. It retains moisture and air, both of which are essential to plant health. It provides habitat for earthworms and other beneficial fauna. And because it’s fresh, these goodies haven’t had a chance to leach away. To retain this nutrient and organic content in regular garden soil, I would have to add 4 to 6 inches of fresh amendments every season. The soil in my containers holds up longer than that in the garden beds simply because it’s contained. The containers prevent rapid leaching of nutrients and organics, and keep out tree roots that would otherwise quickly invade the good soil inside.

This dry winter has given me a greater appreciation than ever before of the value of excellent soil. Get the soil right and a beautiful garden will surely follow.

By Alice Monet
The author is a volunteer trained by the Master Gardener program of the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:22 AM

Reasons to Garden

January is the month when I can finally allow myself, on one of those gloomy, stay home by the woodstove and have a cup of coffee afternoons, to begin to peruse the seed catalogs that have been gathering in great numbers on the kitchen table. This usually evolves into planning my garden, one of my favorite tasks.

I tend to go through seed catalogues, make huge wish lists and then try to figure out how my garden might accommodate my grandiose ideas. This year, however, I opened the Seeds Blum Catalogue first.

Jan Blum offers Heritage seeds from her farm in Idaho. Her catalogue is hand written, and folksy in its deliverance. She begins this year's catalogue with a dissertation on her philosophy of garden planning. She suggests several introspective planning sessions, beginning with a session on examining your motivation for gardening. This requires a spiral notebook, a cup of herb tea, a rocker in front of the wood stove, a relaxed attitude and just a simple brain storming session to consider your reasons for gardening and what you want to get from your garden.

This was an intriguing approach to me. I have never really examined my motivations, what it is that makes gardening an imperative for me. Her theory is that knowing this will make a difference in the garden you plan. I followed her advice and indeed, I will plan a different garden this year because of it. It's an interesting experience. It seems that I garden because of:
The look of it, smell of it, the feel of it around me.
The process of it. Planning it, building the soil, preparing it, buying and starting the
seeds, following each day of growth, even, surprisingly, the satisfaction of
weeding, outsmarting the aphids and grasshoppers, the cold and the wind.
The smell of cilantro after a hail storm.
The delight of fresh vegetables, herbs and flowers.
The pleasure of sitting on the porch swing on a summer afternoon and having it
around me.
Old roses.
Giving produce and flowers away.
Blue, iridescent wild blue of Blue Flax, Bachelor Button, Iris, Delphinium.
Dilly Beans.
The opportunity for good physical labor outside in the sun and wind, a chance to
sweat.
The challenge of creating order out of wildness.
The adventure of trying new plants, new techniques, taking risks.
Penstemmon.
Great conversation with other gardeners.
The dream that I could become self sufficient.
Tulips poking through the snow.
Corralling my teen-age son and watching his amazement at earthworms in the
newly turned soil.
Thousands of varieties of tomatoes and I want to try them all!
Raspberries eaten right off the bush.
Hummingbirds.
Showing it off to people.
Teaching my children and grandchildren about it's virtues.
Learning something new every season.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:18 AM

Gardening Without Pain

f I weren’t so darn stiff and sore, I’d just kick myself. When all that lovely snow fell on our yard this weekend, I just couldn’t wait to get out there and move it from the driveway to the garden. My husband and I went at it with great enthusiasm and no intelligence whatsoever. An hour and a ton of snow later, the job was done and we were both in pain. Later that morning, when I got to church, I spotted my friend Randy clearing off the parking lot with an amazing snow moving device. Like a miniature shovel from a front end loader, this tool was designed to move snow without injuring the mover. Randy cheerfully explained that this was the “Maine secret” for clearing snow. Now why didn’t I think to use a smart tool like that?

While there may not be many more occasions to move mountains of snow this winter, when the gardening season begins, there will lots of work to do that could be done more easily and with fewer injuries if we just use some smart tools. These tools, generally known as “ergonomic”, are thoughtfully designed to promote good posture, make use of the largest and strongest muscles for most jobs, and prevent repetitive stress injuries to various joints. While there are far too many to describe in detail here, they can be recognized by certain key features. These include:

Extended handles: A properly proportioned rake, shovel, or hoe has a handle long enough to allow the user to stand mostly upright while working. I found a leaf rake at the Arboretum a few years ago that has an adjustable length handle, and this has made raking so easy and painless, it has become my favorite gardening chore.

Straight-wrist grips: These small hand tools are equipped with grips that keep the wrist straight while digging or weeding. Some of them also come with a brace that clamps over the forearm, thus encouraging the user to rely on the stronger arm muscles, rather than those of wrist and fingers.

Ratcheted pruning shears: A ratcheting mechanism reduces the force required to do the job, saving wear and tear on hand and finger muscles. Many of these pruning tools come with extended handles and straight-wrist grips. They are a joy to use!

Big wheeled carts and barrows: Carts with extra-large wheels are much easier to roll, especially over uneven ground. Wheelbarrows and tool caddies with large wheels greatly reduce the effort required to move tools, bags of mulch, and other heavy gardening items around the yard.

Kneeling pads and benches: Far too often, I spend a lot of time bending over a garden bed or kneeling on the hard ground. Not smart! If you must get down to ground level, it’s much better to bend at the knees or sit on a low bench. This prevents back strain and makes it possible to work much longer in the garden, which is our goal, after all!

By Alice Monet
Master Gardener

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:15 AM

National Invasive Weed Awareness Week

It’s difficult to address the weed issue without throwing out the obvious pun, so I’m going get this out of the way…invasive weeds are a growing problem. For example, in the immediate area in and around Flagstaff, diffuse knapweed (Centauria diffusa) infests several hundred acres of land. This plant and other invasive weeds have impacted parks, public lands and other natural areas by reducing the number of native plant species and lowering the quality of habitat. Because these species do not have natural enemies here, they can easily choke out desirable, native plants. This ability to rapidly transform landscapes is the inherent nature of an invasive species. And because weeds do not recognize boundaries, combating them requires collaboration among local organizations, government agencies and volunteers.

This year, participants in the San Francisco Peaks Weed Management Area will be recognizing National Invasive Weed Awareness Week by promoting invasive weed awareness through education, collaborative planning and mitigation efforts. On a national level, weed management professionals gather in Washington D.C. to get their day in the sun with peers and policymakers. Regardless of the venue, it is important for experts to provide the scientific data and insight that legislators need to make good policy decisions and provide a framework of support to landowners and land managers.

One such program is provided by the University of Arizona. “Early detection and rapid response” has been the en-vogue mantra of weed killers everywhere the past few years. The University of Arizona Forest Health program has adopted this same moniker to support a program aiding Arizona residents in combating invasive weeds. The goal is to control or eradicate these weeds on non-federal municipal and private properties in Arizona that threaten federally forested areas. Treatment involves Integrated Pest Management, including herbicides by certified applicators in partnership with property owners and the University of Arizona. Property owners, regardless of property size or municipal affiliation are required to match federal dollars on a 50-50 basis. This program is not intended to combat garden variety weeds, such as dandelions or cheeseweed. For these plants, you’re on your own. For more details on this program contact Beverly Loomis at bloomis@ag.arizona.edu.

The wet year we experienced in the southwest during 2005 resulted in expanding populations of invasive weeds, with large-scale seed production. Vast amounts of seed lay waiting in the seed-bank for the opportunity to cast their grizzly pall over the landscape. We are talking about very patient seed. Scotch thistle seed has demonstrated germination after 18 years of laying low in the soil. According to University of Arizona Climate Extension Specialist, Mike Crimmins, “when wet periods occur, whatever species are best suited to quickly take advantage of the moisture can flourish and potentially out-compete all others. The very wet period of the 1980s provided the ideal conditions for some invasive grasses to spread rapidly.” Non-native grass dominated plant communities were integral in carrying wildfires in the lower- and mid-elevation deserts last summer. This year, with drought affecting nearly all of the southwest, fire is a genuine concern throughout the state. Invasive plant communities adjacent to highways are perfect vectors for spreading fire into our forests and Wildland Urban/Interface communities. And this concern is not just relegated to the highly flammable cheatgrass.

Large infestations of diffuse knapweed stand poised for a variety of options, one of which is burning. Typically, fire is not often associated with the knapweeds. But then again, this has not been a typical year. Dried tumbleweeds of diffuse knapweed usually ride the winds of winter, dispersing seed along the way. In the past, we have been saved somewhat by deep snows beating down and burying plants, thus preventing a total onslaught upon the landscape. No such luck this year. With their integrity intact, diffuse knapweed plant communities have a myriad of options at their disposal. This is why we need to dispose of them first.

This next week, while the power brokers in Washington are lobbied by weed management professionals, look around your drought stricken landscape and see if you can identify a weed or two. Recognizing non-native species and planting native species in gardens is one of the easiest ways to get involved in the fight against invasive weeds. By working to prevent the entry or establishment of non-native plants, community members can help to minimize the ecological and economic impacts of these invaders. If you are interested in learning more about invasive plants, how to identify and control them, or how to become a volunteer, please contact Wade Albrecht or visit the National Invasive Species Council (NISC) web site at www.invasivespecies.gov.

Wade Albrecht is the Natural Resource Educator for U of A Cooperative Extension Coconino County and is the Coordinator for San Francisco Peaks Weed Management Area. He can be reached at 774-1868 ext. 25.

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:11 AM

Kale

Growing kale in Flagstaff is a lead-pipe cinch. As a cole crop, it is a cool season vegetable which makes it a fit for Flagstaff and the Colorado Plateau. Kale is hardy and grows best in the spring and the fall. It’s even sweeter after the first freeze in fall. The best time to plant it is in the early spring when the soil can be worked for a summer crop and then in the late summer for a fall crop that can be picked even after the first snowfall.

The most common variety is Red Russian kale (Brassica napus), so named because of its color, not its political affiliation. As an heirloom vegetable, it precedes the rise of communism in Russia. As a matter of fact, it was first brought to North America by way of Canada about 1885 by Russian fur traders.

Close by the venerable Red Russian kale is a cultivar called White Russian kale (Brassica napus) whose name again has no political implications. During the Russian Civil War from 1918-21 the White Russian Army fought the Red Army of the Bolsheviks. They lost and Russia became communist. Also, a White Russian is also an alcoholic drink featuring vodka and Kahlua. Actually, White Russian kale is called white because it has white stems. It’s sweeter and hangs around longer than Red Russian kale, being hardy to 10 degrees F.

Nowadays, a more fashionable kale is Tuscan kale (Brassica oleraceae) which promises a taste of sunny Italy. Delicious tasting, it is also decorative. An Italian heirloom, it also goes by the names of Italian Lacinato Nero Toscana, Black Tuscan kale, Dinosaur kale, and Cavolo Nero. Acclaimed in gourmet magazines, it has received the horticultural imprimaturs of Martha Stewart and Ina Garten, the gastronomic doyenne of The Hamptons.

For those of Scots heritage there is the Blue Scotch Curled kale (Brassica oleracea acephala), a native of Great Britain. A favorite for soups and salads, it can also be used decoratively. Another fascinating kale is the Giant Walking Stick kale (Brassica oleracea longata), a favorite amongst the Portugese. It grows to 7 feet tall. The leaves at top may be eaten as in the other kales, but the stem can be used for a walking stick. While growing, it will need a stake to support it. In the early winter months, it may be pulled and cut off at the base. After the cane has been dried, it can be polished and used as a walking stick. Seeds may be obtained from the Nichols Garden Nursery at www.nicholsgardennursery.com or at 1-800-422-3985.

In addition to being used in soups, side dishes, and stir fry, kale can also be used as greens in salads if the leaves are picked young. As cole crops, they can be planted by seed four to five weeks before the last frost. To get the jump on the spring, they can be started by seed indoors. They are best sown about 1/4 inch deep and 15 inches apart, except the ‘Giant Walking Stick’ kale which requires more space.

The pest to which kale is most vulnerable is the ubiquitous aphid. Dill, coriander, and bronze fennel planted near the kale draw insects that prey on aphids. Also, insecticidal soap or detergents work well if all the aphids are wetted, especially those on the underside of the leaves. Repeated treatments are necessary, and be sure to wash the leaves before cooking them.

Very nutritious and sweet tasting, kale is also quite attractive, offering differently colored varieties which makes it useful not only in a vegetable garden, but also desirable in the flower garden.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension

Posted by maxmaddy at 11:07 AM

Preparing for Spring

It doesn’t matter much to me whether Punxsutawney Phil sees his shadow or not. Once we get to Ground Hog Day, my thoughts turn to spring and planting. This is no coincidence, of course. The date we now observe by watching for the emergence of a hibernating critter has been recognized since prehistoric times as the real beginning of spring. This date comes at the mid-point between the winter solstice (December 21) and the vernal equinox (March 21), and is known among astronomers (such as myself) as a “cross-quarter” day. This date was celebrated by the Celts as Imbolg, or “in the belly”, referring to the first stirrings of life in the womb of the Earth Mother. Later, the holiday was Christianized and renamed Candlemas, but the weather on this day was still regarded as a harbinger of spring. Thus the old poem:

If Candlemas be fair and clear,
There’ll be twa winters in the year.

It isn’t much of a stretch to realize that if Ground Hog Day be ``fair and clear’’, poor old Phil will very likely see his shadow and scurry back into his burrow. He may be willing to wait out another six weeks of winter, but it’s too late for me. Life is stirring deep in Mother Earth. Time to get ready!

Here in Flagstaff, it’s obviously still too cold for planting outdoors, but there’s still plenty to do. For several weeks now, seed and plant nursery catalogs have been arriving in the mail. This is a great time to check out new plant offerings or to give some thought to trying out varieties and species we haven’t grown before. While frigid nights and bitter winds have us scurrying for shelter, we can begin laying plans for our summer gardens and making lists of seeds and plants to order or watch for at the local garden centers.

On warmer days, we can busy ourselves outdoors sweeping away the remnants of winter and cleaning up the garden for the coming season. In the fall, I always end up leaving a few cold hardy perennials standing, especially if they have nice seed heads or interesting forms. By now, these stalks and leaves are thoroughly withered and used up. It’s time to clear them out and make room for the new growth, which even now may be sending up a few green sprouts. Last year about this time, I moved a large container I’d left on a patch of garden bed, only to discover a dozen or so bleached daffodil sprouts that had been attempting to grow under the pot. Oops! I covered them with a fluffy layer of pine needles because they looked so fragile. In a couple of weeks they had turned green and began to bloom.

This is also a good time to inventory your garden tools and supplies, and to replace, clean, or repair anything that needs attention. If you plan to grow some of your plants from seed, now is the time to order the seeds, stock up on seed starting mix, collect the containers you’ll be using, replace the bulbs in your growing lights, and figure out where to put the containers for the several weeks that the seedlings will need to grow. While Phil is snoozing away the next few weeks, Flagstaff gardeners have no time to lose!

By Alice Monet
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:58 AM

Gardening Resolutions for 2006

Master Gardeners possess a wealth of gardening knowledge. I often ask for their advice and expertise on many gardening problems. Since it is the time of year for resolutions, I decided to poll Master Gardeners to find out what their goals are for a better garden. Their comments can help all of us improve our gardening practices in 2006.

Sandy plans to plant more Northern Arizona natives. Indigenous plants often use less water and need less care than plants not native to our area.

Loni resolves to spend more time on her own garden. She wants to work on a "Sanctuary Garden" at home while it is still fresh in her mind. She also plans to plant fewer tomatoes as she just finished the last of late ripening tomatoes that she hung in the garage last week.

Alice has several gardening resolutions that many of us should adopt as our own. This year she will get serious about improving her soil. She’ll install an effective irrigation system. She’ll reseed the lawn. Alice will start her vegetable seeds early enough. And she will eradicate the bind weed in her garden. (After she figures out how, hopefully she will teach the rest of us.) And finally, she’ll deadhead her flowers regularly.

Terry vows to use fewer insecticides, a resolution that the environment can benefit from. And if an insecticide is needed, he’ll use the least toxic one first.

Cynthia resolves to write down the name, both genus and species, of plants that she thinks might do well in her garden when she comes across them in gardening books or magazines. She will not presume to remember them when she’s ready to buy.

Terra had several gardening resolutions for 2006. Here are a few:

She vows to plant her bulbs within a couple of months of buying them instead of waiting for the next year to roll around after which they have all sprouted in her heated garage, warranting a call to the Master Gardener hotline for advice on whether they’ll survive. (They won’t.)

She vows to study her yard for the correct placement of plants based on their needs rather than just pretending that she has studied it and putting plants where she wants them to do best. She will repeat the gardening mantra "right plant, right place."

Terra promises to never again put a plant in the ground using bone meal as her dogs like bone meal better than the $40 a bag, nutritionally balanced, vitamin enhanced, dog food she buys them.

By Hattie Braun

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:55 AM

Further Adventures in Composting

When my wife, Gretchen, passes my composters, a sky-hook is attached to her nose. She makes comments beginning with phrases such as "Why did you?" and "What on earth are you?" or the word "Ugh!" However, she likes the results. The other day she stamped her foot, flaired her nostrils, flared her red hair, and cougared her green eyes when she demanded that I give her some compost for her flower barrel. The final accolade came when she said, "You know, D. P., this stuff of yours really smells sweet."

It wasn’t always so. At first my composters got out of hand and really stunk, but now that I’ve gotten the hang of things they don’t stink anymore. Early in my composting career I used too much nitrogen material. During those stinky times Gretchen called me "Fly Face" because of the flies hanging around the composters. She didn’t know she dated herself to 1960 when Chester Gould’s comic strip Dick Tracy was in vogue and General Eisenhower was President. "Fly Face" was a criminal with flies circling his face.

Last fall, things came to a head when I began composting on top of the ground. The bins were full, and I wasn’t about dispatch my tomato and zucchini vines and sunflower stocks to the cruel machinations of Environmental Services. I dug shallow trenches on the vacant vegetable beds, threw in garden clippings, coffee grounds, and tea leaves, and covered them with soil. Soon they were cooking, slowly.

Then Gretchen remembered that her beloved grandmother, Flo, a Kentuckian who plugged rattlesnakes and rats around her house with a shotgun, dropped kitchen scraps on a pile in her back yard. Grandma Flo had a great vegetable garden. Aha! Now, since it was good enough for her Grandma, it was good enough for me. However, I wouldn’t recommend Grandma Flo’s method unless one craves a rodent-feeding site.

So by messing around I found a slow-cooker way to compost besides pressure-cooker hot bins from the city. It was trenches on vacant vegetable beds. Even in winter microbuggies toil away in hot bins sending up clouds of steam and yielding mature compost about every three weeks. The trenches filled with yard clippings crock pot all winter long, yielding their goodies in the spring.

More sophisticated, high-tech, slow-cooker gardeners build three-sided bins, usually of concrete blocks or spare lumber. They toss organic material in the bins, turning it now and then, producing great compost in the spring, summer, and fall.

An indoor form of composting is called vermicomposting or worm casting which is not fly-casting. First, get a wormery, either home-made or store-bought. The home-made variety can be made from a small plastic container with the approximate dimensions of 14 inches wide by 21 inches deep by 9 inches high. Drill a couple of holes in each side and cover them with a screen. Duck tape holds the screen in place. Since the worms like it dark, keep the lid on.
Next, shred lots of newspapers, dampen them, and put them in the bin, making sure the dampened newspapers aren’t soppy and matted. Watch for puddles on the bottom. Now, that the wormery’s beds are made, it’s ready for guests.

The best guest worms are red wigglers (Eisenia foetida), not earthworms. They can be purchased on the Internet or by phone through the mail. One Internet site is www.happydranch.com. Two pounds or two thousand worms are best for the size container mentioned above.

The worms must be fed to get castings. In and out. They like minced left-over vegetables and fruits. No meat, dairy, fat, salt, or citrus. Small amounts of coffee grounds and soil are good for the worms’ gizzards.

Worms like air so the dampened newspapers should be fluffed now and then. Keep the wormery away from vibrating contrivances, such as drum sets and refrigerators. The temperature is best kept between 68-72 degrees, but 40-80 degrees are tolerable with slower casting. The wormeries can be kept in the garage or for true believers under a sink in the house.

After a few months, harvesting the castings is a cinch. Move all the material to one side of the wormery, add fresh newspaper to the other side, and feed on the new side. The worms will migrate to the new side and the castings can be harvested from the old side.
Composting with worms is a sure-fire hit with small children. Most children like the squiggling, wiggling things. They like growing things, too.

In addition to home entertainment, the worm castings are very rich and are useful for fertilizing the soil, especially in window sill gardens.

Now, that we are in a fearful drought, compost is the way to go. By adding organic matter, the soil retains moisture effectively as well getting fertilized.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:44 AM

Creative Barracks

Tucked behind NAU’s outbuildings, fuel depot, machine shops, and warehouses, NAU’s Research Greenhouse Complex lies low down a short lane. Looking like a military disciplinary barracks, except for its plexiglass roofs, the complex is composed of eight 1000 square foot greenhouses running off a long hall.
On entering the complex, the facility’s bleak foyer is filled with great bins of sterile soil, pallets of containerized plants, and jumbles of black plastic containers, shovels, and hoses. Students, professors, volunteers, Master Gardener Trainees, and two soft-spoken, amiable horticulturists amble in and out of a small office, the foyer, the hall, and the greenhouses. The horticulturalists, Brad Blake and Phil Patterson are, respectively, the Director and Manager of the Complex.
Neat-freaks aside, creativity is messy as in any type of conception. This is no Martha Stewart, made-for-TV potting shed set on the edge of a manicured lawn in the Hamptons. Designed to support research by the biological, environmental, ecological, and forestry sciences, it does a lot more.
The heat and humidity of each greenhouse are controlled separately because the functions of the Research Greenhouse Complex are as varied as horticulture in the alpine and the Sonoran deserts and along streams, amongst woodlands, and in forests.
The Complex is designed to support the university’s varied research projects, such as Professor Nancy C. Johnson’s study in mycorrhizal ecology. Mycorrhizae are symbioses between plant roots and soil fungi. The research studies how environmental conditions, such as CO2, influence the benefits that plants gain from the mycorrhizae. The experiments at NAU’s Research Greenhouse Complex helped discover that the CO2 in the atmosphere influence the mycorrhizae and thus the soil’s fertility. In short, as Sigmund Freud pointed out, the most important stuff occurs beneath the surface with lots of fascinating interactions between the seen and the unseen.
Also, Brad Blake and Phil Patterson supervise volunteers and MG Trainees in producing Fremont cottonwoods (Populus fremontii) for Regents Professor Thomas Whitham’s restoration project at the Cibola National Wildlife Refuge on the lower Colorado River near Yuma. Designed to bring back the bird habitat, the program is funded in part by a grant from the Bureau of Reclamation.
Another program supplies ponderosa pine seedlings to reforest fire-ravaged Mount Lemmon near Tucson. In order to keep the forest authentic, ponderosa pine cones from Mount Lemmon are gathered, seeds harvested, and seedlings grown from the seeds so that the newly introduced ponderosa pines (Pinus ponderosa) replicate the ones they are replacing.
They also grow ponderosa pines (Pinus ponderosa), Gambel oaks (Quercus gambelii), pinyon pines (Pinus edulis), and native grasses, such as spike muhly grass (Muhlenbergia wrightii) and Arizona fescue (Festuca arizonica) for Trees for the Rim, the group reforesting the private lands devastated by the Rodeo-Chediski fire.
They often work with Native American Tribes, such as restoring the historic peach trees for the Hopi Reservation.
Another Native American project was with the Hualapai Tribe where it supplied willows (Salix gooddingii) for the banks of the Colorado River. The tamarisk tree (Tamarix ramosissima) introduced at the turn of the century by the U.S.D.A. to control soil erosion consumes about 300 gallons of water a day, too much in the water-scarce desert. It also invasively drives out native vegetation. The Hualapai wanted to restore the native willows and their wild-life habitat.
The Complex is devoted to successful horticulture on the Colorado Plateau, and as a part of that purpose has made available two roses from the NAU campus that thrive in Flagstaff, the Riles and the McCormick Roses. Cuttings can be purchased from the Complex by calling 523-9100.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:39 AM

Container Gardening

I moved from Oregon to Arizona nine years ago. My previous home was half of a small duplex which required me to garden in pots on small patios. When I moved to a much larger home in Flagstaff, I started by gardening in small pots on my deck. Even though I didn’t know much about gardening in Flagstaff, it turns out that gardening in pots in was a great idea.

It didn’t take me long to realize that pots dry out much more quickly in Flagstaff than in Oregon. Those pots placed on my south-facing deck fared the worst. I learned to move most of them under the partial shade of the roof eaves. I created shade for others with my unused umbrellas from Oregon, and I put some in self-watering containers.

Gardening in pots, particularly in Flagstaff, can mean the difference between failure and success. Almost anything that will grow in the ground, except large trees, will do well in a pot. What are the advantages? First of all you can control the soil, which can be a big problem in Flagstaff. I live just below Mt. Elden so my soil is primarily rock, sand and pine needles and a challenge to work with. Using a pot allows me to create good soil and to make the soil fit the plant’s needs. Some plants like loose, well-drained soil while others prefer soil that holds more moisture. The nice thing about pots is you can plant things that have different watering or soil requirements right next to each other in different pots.

You have some control of the elements when you garden in containers. Pots placed on casters can easily be moved when weather conditions are less than ideal. When the monsoons come, along with the infamous hail, you can easily move small pots or pots on wheels. We have had several summers where this trick has saved my heirloom tomatoes.

Pots are easier to protect from critters and many insects. I use large square cages for my tomatoes and cover them with Remay early in the season. I have only had hornworms once in 8 years. Container gardening also eliminates most weeds. All this leads to less work once the pots are set up.

Gardening in pots can make some gardening chores much easier. We won’t have to give up gardening as we age. Grouping your pots together will make watering easier. Placing pots at waist level will mean less pain for your back. And gardening in containers does away with the need to dig in rocky soil.

Last but certainly not least, you will use less water if you select the correct pots, soil, and location. In our dry climate, unglazed clay pots dry out very quickly. Self-watering containers work well for plants that like a moist soil such as tomatoes, cucumbers and petunias.

I have only touched the surface here on advantages to using pots, and have not mentioned some of the drawbacks such as cost. I will be teaching a class on container gardening at Coconino Community College on May 20 from 9am-noon. The class will cover in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of container gardening, types of containers, soil mixtures, vegetables and perennials for small spaces, design ideas, ideas for watering and much more. We will finish the day with several planting projects that use herbs, vegetables, and perennials to give you ideas for your own container gardens.

For more information or to register, call 928-526-7644. Other gardening classes offered at CCC this spring include: Gardening Forever on June 3, Create a Backyard Habitat on June 4, 11, 18 and 25, and Plant Propagation on June 10.

By Loni Shapiro
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:37 AM

Composting

After a triple bypass and retirement Gretchen and I moved to Flagstaff, a new house and yard. When I shoveled the dirt, my heart sank. I felt the same way when my drill instructor shredded my weekend pass when I was 17. Rather than a hot date, I policed a barren parade ground for cigarette butts. On maneuvers, I suggested to Sgt. Staatz, an irascible, surly, sour, harsh, saturnine battle-tested SOB, that his infantry tactics were wrong based on my high school ROTC courses. Eventually, I become a Sgt/Maj, Special Troops, becoming in part that which I earlier despised, an experience both disquieting and humbling.
Sullen and surly, my yard was volcanic detritus dumped by the contractor on top of native clay. Patches of clay showed through the debris, like concrete patches in peeling linoleum floors. My yard had the cast of that barren parade ground. As Yogi Berra said, it was deja vu all over again.
Sharpies with toothpicks stuck in the corner of their mouths happened by selling dirt and rocks from a dump truck. I wasn’t inclined to buy either dirt or rocks. My soil was up to me.
I knew good soil. While studying for my doctorate at the University of Chicago, I served a country church amongst the corn, cattle, and swine of Illinois. Sadly, at the time I was too busy with Plato and Saint Augustine to treasure black loam and peat bogs.
The forest floor behind our house is covered with slowly decomposing pine needles. After raking off the top layer, I mined the old bottom duff. Knowing the trees needed duff as much as I wanted it, I raked the top back.
For texture, I began mixing my soil using volcanic ash for lightness, clay for heft, and old pine needles for body. Sadly, I had no silt. By divine providence I encountered Hattie Braun, Chief Master Gardener, and Ellen Ryan, Flagstaff’s Head Composting Honcho. Their message: composting is essentially returning to the soil that which it has given us, making it rich. I bought two composting bins from the city. Eureka! Now, I began making my soil rich.
Key to the science of composting is the 30-1 ratio by weight of carbon to nitrogen. Charts about the 30-1 ratio in organic materials are easily available. Nitrogen, commonly called green, inspires microbuggies to work on complex carbon compounds, called brown, making them available as simpler nutrients for the plants. Precisely measuring the ratio of carbon to nitrogen is difficult with a shovel. Horse manure, kitchen scraps (no meat), brewery barley mash, clippings from the garden (no dog poop), dumpster diving treasures, buckets of coffee grounds, and the like, make measuring approximate. Science becomes an art with a palette of three senses: feeling, smelling, seeing. No tasting and hearing.
Tiny microbuggies mining the carbon deep in the compost pile work up a sweat, steaming the pile. Without nitrogen the microscopic critters will quit as the pile goes cold. Too much carbon without enough nitrogen "slow walks" the composting as the microbuggies loaf. Too much nitrogen, which is volatile, paradoxically causes a loss of nitrogen, resulting in smelly ammonia and buzzing flies.
Microbuggies need moisture, but beware of the dreaded extremes: wet and soggy. Wet will drown the microcritters. Nitrogen materials tend toward moisture while carbon materials tend toward dryness. Also, water is heavy, seeping down the pile, making soggy bottoms and dry tops. Turning the pile is a cure for soggy bottoms. If the pile is wet, it’ll sour and draw flies. Sour stinks with the sweet rank of putrefaction, not the rich aroma of decomposition. A good rule-of-thumb for measuring moisture is the feel of a washcloth firmly wrung out, moist but not wet. Usually, the organic stuff thrown in the composer will supply enough moisture, but if it’s dry, add a little water. If it’s wet, add some dry stuff like vintage horse manure.
The microbuggies mining deep in the compost pile need oxygen so the pile has to be turned now and then to get them fresh air. A pitch fork is best for stirring up an aerated wing-ding composting microbug-o-rama.
Good compost smells like newly turned earth in the spring, looks like dark loam, and feels like crumbles. As with martial arts, composting draws on nature’s energy rather than assaulting it with chemicals.
Raised beds rich with dark lustrous soil, producing bounties of vegetables and flowers, are composting’s rewards along with a sense of presence at the creation.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a volunteer for the Coconino County Master Gardener Program.

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:34 AM

Beets, Roots of Noble Lineage

Beets have been out of fashion for several years, considered by many a plebian vegetable along with turnips, rutabagas, and parsnips, but now beets and their allies are becoming de rigueur. Carrots have always remained a standard, not quite fashionable, bourgeois vegetable, conventional and humdrum. However, as gastronomic fashion changes with greater emphasis on food that smacks of home cooking and meat loaf, root vegetables are now happily chic.

Beets, turnips, rutabagas, and parsnips are naturals for Flagstaff and the Colorado Plateau. They don’t wilt at the first sign of frost, like tomatoes. A hardy lot, they’re nutritious, attractive, and easy to grow.

The beet with which to begin is the Detroit Dark Red (Beta vulgaris), an heirloom developed in 1892 by a Mr. Reeves in Port Hope, Ontario, Canada. He began with the Early Blood Turnip (Beta vulgaris cv.). The same turnip was also grown at Monticello by the author of the Declaration of Independence and our nation’s third President, Thomas Jefferson, whose gardens were undoubtedly tended by his slaves. At any rate, the Detroit Dark Red has a noble lineage.

An all around vegetable, almost all of it can be eaten. The young leaves can be used in salads, and before they are too old can be used as a side dish or in soups and stir fry.

However, the real triumph of the Detroit Dark Red is the root, a delightful globe, best plucked early while it is still tender and tasty. To prevent the dark red from staining everything in sight, the globe is best boiled, baked, or roasted in its skin with the small base of leaves attached to the top and the small pig tail left on. After cooking, the skin can easily be slipped off without red stain running all over the place.

Beets are not all dark red globes. The Italian heirloom, Chioggia (Beta vulgaris), with its interior rings of bright pink and white offers a great contrast to the Detroit Dark Red. With its sweet and peppery taste, it’s also an eye catcher when sliced properly on any dinner table.

The Golden Beet is golden in color and doesn’t bleed as do the red beets. A fetching contrast to the red beets, it’s attractive, sweet, and nutritious.

The Bulls Blood Beet is, also, an heirloom. With an earthy yet sweet flavor, it’s darker and richer than the other beets with its leaves a deep maroon color. If the leaves are picked young, they are a striking contrast in salads. It’s a beet connoisseur’s beet.

The rules for growing beets are simple. Sow the seeds a few weeks before the expected last frost and keep sowing on through to fall. Plant an inch deep about 12 to 15 seeds per foot and thin to 2 to 3 inches. Plant in well-composted soil and keep the watering even. When harvesting, choose a dry day, cut off tops near the crown, don’t wash the root, and store in the crisper in a plastic bag with small holes. They’ll last a long time. They can be stored, boiled, pickled, roasted, baked, canned, and frozen.

As far as pests are concerned, the ubiquitous aphid is a possible threat. Dill, coriander, and bronze fennel draw the insects that feed on aphids. Lady bugs are excellent predators on aphids. Insecticidal soap and detergent work as long as the leaves’ undersides where the aphids hide out are hit. If these are used, the leaves should be washed before eating. Never use systemic poisoning. Suicide and homicide are horticultural no-no’s.

Beets bring a delight to the eye, a pleasure to the palate, health to the body, and clarity to the mind.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:30 AM

Aspen: Our Favorite Problem Tree

What’s wrong with my aspen? After questions about bark beetle, that is the most common call that we get on the Master Gardener hotline. Sometimes we can help folks with their questions, but other times it’s as much of a challenge as growing aspen because a multitude of problems can affect this lovely tree. I learned how to answer many of the questions from my own aspen experience.

I planted three clumps of aspen in the spring of 2002. Like many a Flagstaff homeowner, I wanted aspen in my yard because of its attractive white bark, heart-shaped quaking leaves, and beautiful fall color. It’s hardy and fast growing. As a plant native to our region, it looks at home in the Flagstaff landscape. And since there are many beautiful clumps of aspens growing in town, why shouldn’t it thrive at my house?

Like many other folks, I learned the hard way that aspen can be a troublesome tree in the home landscape. It is affected by numerous insects such as aphid, oystershell scale, and clear wing moth. It gets even more diseases including canker, rust, and leaf spot. And there are a wide variety of cultural practices that will affect the health of the tree such as shallow watering and mower or weed-whacker damage.

In addition, aspen prefer a moist, well-drained, slightly acid soil similar to what you might find at higher elevations. This is not a soil often found in our yards. The suckering habit can be a nuisance especially with sprouts turn up in a lawn. Even if properly cared-for, an aspen may only live for 20 years in our urban landscape.

My aspens lasted less than a year. It didn’t help that I planted them during a record drought and then went on vacation without a plan for watering. I also didn’t dig a very wide hole when planting. I furthered their demise by placing them in a pretty shade spot. And I never got around to mulching. At least at my house, elk were not a problem.

I think aphids eventually did my aspens in. Though aphids don’t usually kill an aspen outright, they can be a contributing factor to the decline of an already stressed tree.

As 2006 is turning into an excellent year for aphids, check your aspens frequently for this pest. You can treat for aphids by hosing down your tree to knock the aphids onto the ground. If the problem continues, try spraying with an insecticidal soap. In the most severe cases, you may have to resort to an insecticide.

The best defense for an aphid problem and many other insects and diseases is to keep your aspens healthy. This means providing adequate water, controlling pests before they get out of control, raking leaves up in the fall, and avoiding damage to the bark as this is a point of entry for disease.

I don’t like to recommend aspen as a landscape tree because of all the problems. But I am still taken by their beauty so someday I’ll likely try again. Next time, I’ll do everything right from the start. I’ll loosen the soil several feet out from the planting hole, digging only as deep as the root ball. I won’t plant in May or June when conditions are so dry and windy. I’ll apply an organic mulch around the base of the tree. I’ll water regularly until my tree is established. Finally, I‘ll choose a site that has a north or eastern exposure and enough sun.

If growing aspen seems like too much trouble, there are many other trees that can be used instead. You will find a list of small deciduous trees that grow to about the same height as aspen at: www.coopext.colostate.edu/4DMG/Trees/aspens2.htm.

I’m beginning to think that aspen are harder to grow than roses. So for now, I think I’ll stick to enjoying aspen where they grow best – up on the peaks.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:26 AM

A Sacramental Garden

Gardens and gardening appeal to many people for various reasons. Some like to work the soil and watch things grow. They like flowers, vegetables, herbs, trees, and bushes. They like to sniff the roses and herbs, eat ripe tomatoes off the vine, prune bushes and trees, feel well-worked soil drift through their fingers. They like physical work in pleasant surroundings.
Others not only like to work the soil, they also love of the beauty of a garden. They feel as though they are painters with a palette, limning textures and colors, designing beds and walks. For them gardening is an art in which the gardener gives voice to the mute mélange of soil, water, sun, and air. For garden artists design is the heart of gardening. They appreciate the shape of a bush, the dangling tendrils of a climber, and the colors of leaves, flowers, and stems. They even cherish the rocks, their shapes, patinas, and colors.
The reason is simple. Gardens and gardening are therapeutic. They’re good for the soul. They draw the mind away from the hurly-burly of everyday life. They allow people to regain their temper for having lost it. The physical sensations of taste, touch, smell, sight, and hearing beckon them to the simple pleasures of the senses. The deep purple of an eggplant, the fragrance of a rose, the songs of birds, the architecture of a tree, the shape and texture of rocks, all draw the mind away from internal internecine conflict to the immediacy of beauty. The beauty of a garden soothes the savage breast lurking in everyone. Without it, people are often Shakespeare’s "Poor Brutus, with himself at war" who "forgets the shows of love to other men."
One of the great pleasures in life is sharing rewarding experiences with those for whom we care. Gardens offer those communal experiences. Beautiful gardens cause passersby to stop and chat and bring friends together to share their delights. Gardens bring an ease of communion.
Still others experience gardens as sanctuaries, places set aside in which the mind can not only find peace and ease but also take flight on journeys of the spirit. The curved lines of walks and foliage free the mind "cribbed, cabined, and confined" by the boxes and straight lines of society. As people embrace the discrete sensations of beauty, they often touch the fringes of eternity. The physical pleasures of the garden release the heart and mind as the garden sacramentally becomes an "outward and visible sign of an inward and invisible grace."
For many gardeners, gardens and gardening can become "moveable feasts" of the imagination. They can simply close their eyes, breathe deeply, and recreate in their mind’s eyes the feel of soil, the color of flowers, the shape of a branch, the aroma of life. As their spirits take wing and fly to the "uttermost parts" of the imagination, they journey into the outer reaches of inner space.
William Blake in his "Auguries of Innocence" said it best:
To see a world in a grain of sand
And a heaven in a wild flower
Hold infinity in the palm of your hand
And eternity in an hour.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 10:20 AM

Landscaping with Native Plants Brochure

Utah at Home: Landscaping with Native Plants is a 20-page, full-color, how-to booklet created to give gardeners easy-to-follow guidelines for using native plants in the home landscape.

This brochure is FREE to Coconino County Master Gardeners. Coconino Master Gardeners can stop by the extension office at 2304 N. 3rd St. to pick up their free copy or you may send an e-mail request to hbraun@ag.arizona.edu. The public may purchase the brochure for $2.75. Please make checks payable to the University of Arizona. Send your request with payment to:
Coconino Cooperative Extension
Master Gardener Program
2304 N. 3rd Street
Flagstaff, AZ 86004

The Utah at Home brochure was sponsored by Utah's Choice, Native Plants for Intermountain Landscapes. Though produced for Utah, much of the brochure is applicable to northern Arizona. For more information about going native with Utah's Choice plants, visit www.utahschoice.org.

Posted by hbraun at 9:32 AM

A Mountain Garden

Dignified, gracious, and warm, Charlotte Minor, a landscape architect for the Forest Service, has deftly designed a garden for herself and her husband, Phil Patterson. It begins with a comfortable flagstone patio surrounded by beds of iris and delphinium, then extends imperceptibly through a bed of chokeberries into a vegetable garden, and finally reaches into the seeming infinity of the forest. If style is defined by limitations, the limitation of water has set the style of Charlotte’s design. Phil and Charlotte’s water comes from rain water collected on their roof and from what he hauls for their cistern. The plants and flowers around the patio are watered with gray water. That which is precious shapes their garden’s beauty.

A short path leads past the delphinium and iris and through the chokeberries to a vegetable garden. A fence encloses the vegetable garden to keep the deer and elk from feasting on their vegetables. With a quiet Quaker dignity Charlotte said, “Sometimes, we have to remember that we’re the immigrants. It was originally their land.”

From a distance the vegetable garden with its eight raised beds of concrete resembles an old cemetery in New Orleans where the graves rest above the ground. Designed by Phil and reflecting his genius, four are for deeply rooted vegetables and four for the shallowly rooted. As the plant manager of NAU’s Greenhouse Complex and curator of The Arboretum at NAU, Phil knows whereof he plans. The raised beds are watered by an ingenious, transportable drip system which can be adjusted to various crops. He and Charlotte rotate the crops in the raised beds according to the nitrogen-fixing or nitrogen-consuming types of vegetables and as a way of combating pests.

Off to one side is a stable for their horses whom they ride through the forest and whose waste eventually goes into their composter. Their home is not at the end of the road, but near, almost on the edge of the wilderness. It is a house and garden for those who love the Mountain West and for those who’ve chosen to live within the limitations of that beauty and freedom. Charlotte comes to this love by birth, her father, Dr. Charles Minor, being the founder of NAU’s School of Forestry. Phil, a tall, lanky redhead, comes by choice. Hailing from Oak Lawn, Illinois, he heard the voice of his Highland Scot’s ancestors and headed for the High Country and NAU’s School of Forestry.

While in the midst of a forest, they’re also living in a desert. As a consequence, the precious quality of water defines the beauty of their landscaping which is so skilful that at first it is not apparent what they have done. Artists, their effort appears effortless. Immigrants, they have learned the language of the High Country and accommodated themselves to the forest, making a comfortable and useful garden for themselves while respecting the forest’s animals, choosing no more of their land than that which they need. Their garden is a model for Flagstaff and the Colorado Plateau.

by Dana Prom Smith
Master Gardener
The author is a volunteer trained by the University of Arizona Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:10 AM

Tomatoes (Part 2 - 2006)

Tomatoes (2 of 2)
By Dana Prom Smith

As with all high maintenance trophies, tomatoes expect luxury, especially the luxuries of food and bed. Tomatoes do not do well in beds of hard Coconino concrete (sandstone), with mattresses of volcanic rubble, or on ticking of red clay. They thrive in the best of soils which means soil amended with compost or imported. Even imported soil should be amended. The compost can be store-bought or home-made; however, home-made is best. Sometimes, store-bought compost has fillers, such as sawdust. Also, often the imported soil isn�t much good, either. Just because some guy has a dump truck full of dirt doesn�t mean the dirt is any good. Dirt has lineage, ancestry, and genealogy like anyone else, and its origins and history should be checked out.

If tomato plants are going to be bedded in the ground, it should be warmed for several days beforehand with a blanket of clear or black plastic. If in a container, the container and the soil in it should be heated for several days beforehand by enshrouding it in a black or clear plastic bag to destroy any lingering bugs and to welcome the tomato plant with a warm bed.

Tomatoes also like to be well and carefully fed. No mess hall fare or chow line, certainly no MRE�s or K-rations. A high nitrogen fertilizer will help start the plant off well, but as soon as the plant is off to a good start, the best fertilizer ratio is low on nitrogen (N), high on phosphorous (P), and medium to high on potassium (K). Too much nitrogen will produce a beautiful trophy which does nothing except hang around the garden looking beautiful sans tomatoes. Although harder to manage, natural fertilizers are better rather than synthetic as a means of keeping friendly mycorrhizae (fungus roots) in balance around the plant�s roots.

In Flagstaff and on the Colorado Plateau short-season varieties of tomatoes do best because the growing season is so short. This sadly means that a lot of old favorites from back home are chancy in the High Country, especially those coming from soft, sultry climes. Many tomato varieties, like the Vamp of Savannah, like it �nice and warm,� but in the High Country Vamps can be hazardous to a gardener�s emotional well-being. Tough trophies do best. Vamps �tease them and thrill �em,� but then �torture and kill �em.�

Early Girl Hybrid (FV) and Big Boy Hybrid are popular short-season varieties. Several Siberian tomatoes, such as Galina, Market Miracle, Glasnost, and Perestroika are short-season. Seeds for these Siberians can be obtained from Seeds Trust in Cornville, AZ, at www.seedstrust.com or (928) 649-3315. Siberia is an excellent training ground for the High Country. Nichols Garden Nursery at www.nicholsgardennursery.com or (800) 422-3985 offers two short season varieties, SunSugar Hybrid (62 days) and Sweet Baby Girl F1 Hybrid (65 days.)

Nurseries offer a limited number of varieties. Seeds offer more variety. Seeds can be started indoors in peat moss, vermiculite, or planting soil six to eight weeks before planting outside after the danger of frost is past. Any south-facing window sill will do. However, if picking tomato plants from a nursery, choose sturdy, dark green plants. Avoid leggy plants and be sure to check for insects, looking on the underside of the leaves. Nurseries as with hospitals often incubate maladies.

A big advantage to growing tomatoes in Flagstaff and on the Colorado Plateau is few diseases. The harsh weather (low humidity, wind, and frost) does bad things to pests as well as tomatoes. For the few fungi and sucking pests nicotine spray or insecticidal soap can be effective. The various worms can be picked off by hand. High maintenance trophies don�t like bugs crawling over them.

The prices of growing tomatoes are great, but when successful, the fruit of the vine is worth the work, worry, and anxiety. It is luscious to eat, piquant to taste, beautifully shaped, wonderfully colored, and chock full of human nutrients.

The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:41 AM

Tomatoes (Part 1- 2006)

Tomatoes (1 of 2)
by Dana Prom Smith
Master Gardener

Originating with the Incas, tomatoes have served a variety of purposes, one of which was as a poison. The same Incas who gave us tomatoes also used them to poison the soldiers of the Conquistador Francisco Pizarro in the 16th century. The tomatoes of that time were small, yellow, and far more acidic than our cultivars and heirlooms of today. The oxalic acid of the Incas� tomatoes ate holes in the soldiers� intestines, inducing slow, painful deaths. The Incas were neither the first nor the last to gain revenge by poisoning their enemy with gifts of food and drink. Happily, those poisonous qualities have bred out of our modern tomatoes, and they are now tasty, safe, and nutritious.

With such a chancy history it is small wonder that tomatoes are hard to grow in Flagstaff and on the Colorado Plateau. Also, Flagstaff�s cold weather and short growing season make growing tomatoes even chancier.

High maintenance plants, many think that the tomatoes� beauty and taste are worth the time, money, and anxiety they demand. Indeed, some gardeners think of their tomatoes as trophies to be trotted out and shown off to all their neighbors, frequently boasting about the time, money, and ordeals required to grow them. As with a lot of high maintenance trophies, tomatoes are fickle. Sometimes, they�re great and sometimes real pains in the ass, but when they�re great, they�re great.

The tomato is a fruit grown on a vine. The Supreme Court ruled it a vegetable, but only a lawyer or a judge would use the convoluted logic of lawyers to call a fruit a vegetable. As a fruit it is best plucked fresh off the vine by hand and eaten while still warm. Leaning forward and dripping on the ground is acceptable behavior.

No hardy mountaineers, tomato vines can�t even stand up by themselves and need a lot of propping up with cages, poles, or lattices to keep them from falling over.

The trick to growing tomatoes is the same trick used by many gardeners in Flagstaff, fooling Mother Nature by micro-managing the climate and refurbishing the soil. Flagstaff and the Colorado Plateau are not congenial to tomatoes who like it warm and humid, not cool and dry. Tomatoes have to be tricked into thinking they are in the Midwest or South during a long warm, muggy summer. Thus the choice for tomato lovers is either living in a warm, muggy climate and growing tomatoes easily or living in Flagstaff and growing tomatoes with difficulty. A real double-bind. As an old farmer once said, �Yep, the weather�s a little hard on us humans, but its sure great for the corn, hogs, and tomatoes.�

Tomatoes can be grown either in the ground or in containers. Both places work, but the choice among tomato aficionados, such as Dr. Jim Mast, is the container, preferably an ugly black plastic container. Black absorbs heat, fooling the tomato plant into thinking the soil is warm when it isn�t. For ground-growers, black, porous plastic sheets spread around the plants� base perform the same trick.

The chilly air is the next challenge. Frost kills tomatoes. The one advantage to Flagstaff is that really hot, rainy summers are not congenial for tomatoes, either. The easiest and almost most expensive trick is the Wall-o-Water, a device sold by nurseries. It is literally a translucent plastic wall of water which surrounds the tomato plant, tricking the plant into thinking the air is warm when it isn�t. The manufacturers claim the Wall-o-Water works in temperatures down to 16 degrees F.

Less expensive and less effective arrangements are rocks, of which there plenty in Flagstaff, gallon glass wine jugs, or gallon plastic milk jugs. The rocks absorb heat during the day and keep the plants warmer at night. The gallon wine jugs filled with water do the same trick as the rocks. The gallon plastic milk jugs with their bottoms cut off and caps discarded can be placed over the tomato plant in an attempt to keep the plant cozy day and night. Also, plastic tarps or old bed sheets can be draped on poles or cages over the plants.

Of course, all of this trickery can be accomplished in a greenhouse, surely the most expensive way to grow home-grown tomatoes, especially if the green house is heated with electricity or gas. If passive solar heating is used, then the only expense is the greenhouse itself. A really cheap and effective greenhouse is a lean-to affair set against the wall of a house, drawing radiant heat from the house, but such an arrangement may be too casual for Martha Stewart gardeners with a sense of propriety.

The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:29 AM

January 12, 2006

The McCormick Rose

A touch of class, a hint of civilization, a love story, and a tragedy, these are the themes entwined in the tale of the McCormick Rose, a cutting of which graces the bottom of the steps into Old Main on the North Campus of NAU. The first McCormick Rose was brought as a cutting by Margaret Hunt McCormick, the bride of Richard McCormick, Arizona's Second Territorial Governor, to Prescott in November 1865. A Boursault rose, an ancient French hybrid, this pink rose was the first cultivated rose in Arizona.

The McCormick Rose at Old Main is the granddaughter of the grande dame original McCormick Rose. It was a cutting from the McCormick Rose at the Sharlot Hall Museum in Prescott which was in turn a cutting from the original rose planted by Margaret McCormick by the front door of the Governor's Mansion in Prescott. The NAU Class of 1934 planted the third generation cutting at Old Main. As one of the three campus roses of the Alumni Rose Collection, it is also a part of the NAU Arboretum, which will be offering rooted great granddaughter cuttings or fourth generation McCormick Roses for sale through its proposed gift shop in the fall of 2005.

The McCormick Rose began its journey in Margaret McCormick's trousseau luggage as she and Richard made their way to Arizona. First, the cutting accompanied them by steamship from New York to Jamaica and thence to Aspinwall at the Isthmus of Panama. Next, the cutting went with them overland on muleback to the Pacific Coast where they and the cutting again boarded a steamship for Acapulco. Richard and Margaret spent a couple of days touring the deserted city (the French Army had chased the Mexicans out). Finally, the cutting went with them to Los Angeles.

After a few days rest in Los Angeles, they and the cutting took a stagecoach to Yuma where they boarded a steamer for a trip up the Colorado River to Ehrenburg. Then as Margaret described the last leg of the journey, it was "two ambulances, six government wagons, and two private baggage wagons" crossing the Mohave Desert to Prescott. Needless to say, the McCormick Rose has demonstrated itself a hearty cultivar and flourishes today after years of benign neglect in Prescott and at Old Main.

Prescott had barely become Prescott at the time. Before that it was a single, hastily built, ramshackle log cabin on the banks of Granite Creek, called Fort Misery by John Goodwin, the First Territorial Governor. The Governor's Mansion to which Richard McCormick brought his well-bred, well-educated, New Jersey bride was a long cabin with dirt floors and windows without glass. Happily, Margaret was the first First Lady and was given carte blanche on improvements, furnishings, and decorations. She had furniture made from pine logs.

The McCormick Rose was but a symbol of the civilization and class Margaret brought to Prescott. She transformed the rude log cabin into a frontier mansion where she made a home for Richard and herself, an office for him, and accommodations for guests. She threw levees, entertained quests, and bade visitors and strangers welcome. Margaret wrote of her "own dear home" to her friend Emma in New Jersey, "We danced in the house" and "served cold roast beef & veal, pies & cakes in variety, almonds, raisins, jellies, coffee, lemonade, & wine."

A considerable horsewoman, Margaret accompanied Richard on many of his trips throughout the Territory, becoming acquainted with many of the pioneers, impressing them with her grace. Well-loved, she touched the frontier settlement with her charm.

Prescott at the time was a jumping off place for what Richard McCormick called a "terra incognita", an unknown and unmapped land, a land fit for only "daring trappers and adventuresome gold seekers." The log cabin Governor's Mansion was a mansion only in comparison to the tents, shacks, lean-tos, and wagons making up the rest of the settlement.

In another letter to her friend Emma, she wrote that she "was never so happy in her life," and that Richard "acts much more the 'lover' now, than he did before we were married."

On her return from a trip with Richard to San Francisco, she gave birth to a stillborn child. Thought to have been recovering well, she suddenly lapsed into a violent sickness and died one day short of her 24th birthday. She was buried with her stillborn child in her arms in the forest near the mansion. Her grave was strewn with wildflowers.

The Prescott Arizona Miner in May 3, 1867 wrote that Margaret was "a greatly loved woman," whose death had "cast gloom over the community," adding that "no woman in the Territory was more happy."

So when is a rose a rose? Whenit has a story to tell.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is currently enrolled in the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:41 AM

Master Gardener Program

Heraclitus, the 6th century B.C. Greek philosopher, said, "No man can step into the same river twice," by which he meant to say that everything changes. He hadn’t taken the Coconino County Extension Master Gardener course. As a geezer who is older than dirt, I learned that all of life isn’t water. Some of it’s dirt on which everyone can step twice.

As a lifetime gardener, beginning as head weed picker and slug and snail Lord High Executioner for my father, I failed to learn one thing. Dirt, at least for the gardener, remains the same. As a former military intelligence Sgt/Maj, criminal investigator, university English teacher, minister, and psychotherapist, I believed in change until I took the Master Gardener course. As a boy I tried to fly by jumping off the back porch and flapping my arms. I didn’t even get as far as Icarus and sprained my ankle falling on my impossible dream.

In short, as a trainee I learned that Flagstaff, Coconino County, and the Colorado Plateau aren’t horticulturally welcome to change, to tropicals and sub-tropicals, to back home favorites, and to water gulpers. The successful high country gardener works within a set of limits determined not by the gardener but by One who has no name.

Once that stubborn truth sets in, then the Master Gardener course explores the possibilities within the high country framework. Listening to Jan Busco talk about flowers and plants that work on the Colorado Plateau opened up a new horticultural world for me. Tom De Gomez talked about trees and insects. Some trees shatter under the weight of snow and some carry their white mantels with grace. Some insects are benign and some ain’t, and what to do about the ain’t’s.

Hattie Braun, the Master Gardener head honcho, brought in a variety of know-how teachers, Jim Mast on tomatoes and veggies, Terra Crampton on xeriscape gardening, Ellen Ryan on composting, Wade Albrecht on noxious weeds, herself on soils, and Mary Olsen on the biggie of figuring out what’s wrong with wilted and non-thriving plants.

With all of our failures, the sensible ones amongst us want to succeed. The Master Gardening course is designed for success. Nearly everyone has enough time for an afternoon once a week to learn how to fly with dirt. A side benefit is that gardeners are nice people so the course is a great chance to meet lots of nice people from all walks of life who like to garden successfully.
Another benefit is that trainees are expected to volunteer their knowledge, time, and work. As a volunteer I’ve met interesting people who’ve enriched my life as well as giving me an opportunity to enrich the beauty of a community which is set amidst grandeur, drama, and wonder.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a volunteer who has been trained through the Master Gardener Program.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:38 AM

Low-Maintenance Gardening

This summer has been like a case study in low-maintenance gardening for me. I knew going in that I would have less spare time than usual for puttering, and I tried to set up the garden to survive without much attention for days at a time. But at the end of April, a colleague became ill and had to leave our office just as a major project was ramping up. Suddenly I had no spare time and the garden has had to fend for itself ever since. This has given me a chance to see which of my low-maintenance methods worked, and which were somewhat less than successful. It’s been a real eye-opener.

Lesson number one: select plants that are truly well-suited to our peculiar environment. Native plants are a great choice, but plants from other regions of the world with similar growing conditions will often do very well here. Several of the local plant nurseries offer nice selections of native plants. Each year around the third weekend in June, the Flagstaff Arboretum holds its plant sale, which is a wonderful opportunity to learn about gardening with plants from this region and to find a wide variety of plants to bring home to your garden.

Lesson number two: you know the old joke about the three most important factors in the value of real estate? They are “location, location, location.” Well, the three most important factors in low-maintenance gardening are soil, soil, soil. It’s as simple as this: plants thrive in good soil. Where I haven’t taken the time up front to improve the soil, no amount of pampering afterwards has made much of a difference. I’ve wasted enormous amounts of time and effort trying to get plants to grow in bad soil. In fact, I’ve spent more time trying to compensate for a poor start than I would have digging out those beds and improving the soil in the first place.

There are lots of ways to improve soil, but one that’s always worked well for me is to dig out the bed to a depth of two feet. This can be back-breaking work if you’re not used to it, which, of course, is why I avoid it! If you can hire someone to do this part of the work for you, it will be money well spent. Once the beds have been dug out, and the soil piled on a tarp or drop cloth nearby, mix in lots of rich organic composted mulch. I don’t think you can add too much. In fact, I’ve planted in straight mulch and the plants have done very well. But I prefer to mix the mulch with the soil removed from the beds, unless that soil is solid clay. A very successful local gardener recommends adding 50 lbs of mulch to every 4 x 4 ft section of garden bed.

Lesson number three: install some kind of automatic irrigation. This can be as simple as a sprinkler or soaker hose with the flow controlled by an inexpensive hose timer, or as elaborate as a professionally-installed irrigation system with separate timers to suit the watering needs of different plant beds or micro-climates around your property. It’s not that watering the garden by hand isn’t fun. It’s just about my favorite form of therapy! But watering an entire garden by hand for weeks on end, until monsoon season finally kicks in, is pretty much the opposite of low-maintenance.

Those are the three most important steps for creating a landscape that doesn’t require your constant attention. But there are lots more “tricks of the trade” that can boost your garden’s independence. My current favorite is self-watering containers. These come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and styles, but they all use the same basic approach. An upper container holds the soil and plants. This either extends down into the lower container, or there is a wick of some kind going from the soil into the reservoir below. The reservoir contains enough water to keep the soil moist for a few days to a week.

I use six large self-watering pots for growing vegetables on my front porch. The soil in the pots is about 18 inches deep, so the plants have plenty of room for growing big root systems. Even on the hottest, driest, windiest days of June, my little vegetable patch was happy. I refilled the reservoirs about every third day, but often they just needed topping off. I’ve been harvesting tomatoes since the 1st of July, so you can see why I’m so taken with self-watering pots.

Dense plantings are a lot less work than sparse ones. When the leaves of neighboring plants overlap, particularly when they completely hide the soil, the plants form their own microclimate, shading each other and preventing rapid drying. They also inhibit the growth of weeds and help keep the soil soft, so weeds are easily pulled out.

Finally, don’t forget to mulch. A thick layer of mulch has so many benefits for the garden, it really deserves its own column. It is absolutely essential for a low-maintenance garden, preventing rapid drying of the soil, blocking weeds, and keeping plants clean and healthy. A thick layer of shredded bark, pine straw, cocoa hulls, or even clean gravel will provide all these benefits, as well as dressing up your flowerbeds.

Even if you don’t particularly need your garden to be low-maintenance, these techniques are all good gardening practices that will improve the appearance and health of your garden, and give you more time to enjoy it. So give them a try and ENJOY!

By Alice Monet
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:35 AM

Lilac

Plump buds are now emerging on my Persian Lilac (Syringa x persica), but I fear they will not bloom. My lilac, I’ve discovered, suffers from hyper-sensitivity to frost, perhaps because of its aristocracy, tracing its lineage back to 1614. As with a lot of delicate creatures, her blossoms shrivel easily. She may even be a bit neurotic as though her ego strength is so wan that she can’t feel a chill without catching a cold. Indeed, as with many beauties, she does not suffer a freeze well.

Now, I’ve tried to nourish my lilac. I’ve carefully nipped and tucked with my clippers but only after it has budded but seldom bloomed. I’ve fed it only the best nutrients, those designed especially for lilacs. I’ve watered it carefully, always attending to its thirsts. I hate to see beauty wilt. Alas, to no avail. In almost twenty-five years, my lilac has blossomed twice.
Having found in my Master Gardening classes that Flagstaff has microclimates, various small pockets of climate scattered here and there throughout the town, I have also found that my microclimate in Kachina Village is not kind to lilacs. Now, some places in Flagstaff seem congenial to lilacs. There’s a lovely chorus line of lilacs just across from Bow and Arrow Park, tended by a loving horticultural choreographer.

Frosts and freezes aren’t the only things my lilac finds offensive. She doesn’t like thrips either. But then who does?

Thrips are little, tan worm-like things that suck life’s juices out of lush buds potent with beauty. Ugh! The best thing, paraphrasing Oscar Hammerstein, is to "Wash those thrips right off your lilac, and send them on their way" because "You can’t put back a petal when it falls from the flower." No pesticides, please. Lilacs and other living things are too precious for poisons. A nice cool, refreshing shower will do but in time enough in the day to dry off. Sadly, human beings are the only animals that befoul their own nests, but in spite of what others do, we don’t want to befoul our own.

In times past I have even tried to cover my Persian lilac with plastic sheets to keep the buds from freezing, but, alas, as with many beauties my lilac doesn’t like being enshrouded with slick, impersonal plastic. She likes sheets or row covers especially designed to keep lilacs and other living things warm during the chill of a spring freeze.

As with many beautiful neurotics my lilac blames the environment for her failure to realize her potential beauty, claiming quite justly that the climate in Flagstaff is fickle. I wonder why she just doesn’t adjust, but then she has lots of company. My Kentucky Wonders green beans didn’t do too well in the last freeze. However, some say that spinach even improves with frost as do turnips, broccoli, cabbage, brussels sprouts and other less fragrant vegetables.
But my theme is not smelly vegetables but a beauty whose fragrance lingers in the warmth of a May evening. As with many apparently fragile neurotics, my lilac endures life’s vicissitudes, growing stronger year after year. Her foliage is a bright green, full and thick. She makes a wonderful hedge, but I do wish she would bloom more than twice in twenty-five years.
However, my lilac is of such grace that her smile is well worth the wait, a smile of pale purple and rich fragrance. The promise of her potential keeps me tending her year after year, waiting for the next epiphany of her beauty, a beauty of scent and sight. Some experiences are worth the wait. A lilac’s blossoms are one of them.

By Judith Vandewater and Dana Prom Smith
The authors are currently enrolled in the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and are Master Gardener volunteers for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:29 AM

Catching the Eye with Joan Abbott

Merchandisers must catch the customer’s eye or they’re out of business. Some assault the customer with scantily clad models, mega sales pitches, deafening music, or flashing signs. Instead of assaulting them, Joan Abbott beckons them, catching the customer’s eye with beauty.

A landscape designer and owner of Foxglove Gardening, Joan considers herself an artist, not in oils, water colors, or stained glass, although accomplished in these media, but in gardens. The garden, no matter how small, is her canvas. Her garden canvases can be seen all over Flagstaff, on Butler, Beaver, San Francisco, Milton, and the old Police Station. Look for beauty beside the road.

Her living "still lifes" have depth, not just a trompe l’oeil giving a flat canvas an illusion of depth. They also change with the seasonal procession of color, tulips to poppies, day lilies to asters, coneflowers to asters, and mums to Japanese anemones. Dark browns become light green, shoots of color emerge from the greens, green mutates into red, grasses produce stalks of seed, and plants reveal their architecture as they drop their foliage.

Recalling Robert Browning’s line, "less is more," she believes in simplicity of design, and along with simplicity, open space. A crowded garden has a cluttered effect. An example of less is more is a colony of tall Shasta daisies (Chrysanthemum maximum) set next to a ground cover of blue carpet junipers (Junipirus horizontalis), using a contrast in height to create an open space, leaving a sense of drama and elegance.

One of the abiding qualities of any design, be it a water color or a garden, is contrast, not just of color but also of texture and form, such as a finely bladed grass next to a nubby succulent, each one emphasizing the uniqueness of the other. She says, "The tiny dark green leaves of a Vinca minor next to the blue-green blades of Iris are gentle partners."

One of her favorites is using perennials in pots and barrels. A tall spiky plant with a low one cascading over the rim draw the viewer’s eye in two directions with a third moderately sized plant bringing the eye back to center.

Of course, the contrast of color opposites always adds what might be called, "the pizzicato effect", such as yellows with purples, blues with oranges, and reds with greens plucking at the strings of the eye. Contrasts of different values in any given hue and differently shaped flowers and leaves are far more subtle and, in some ways, more beguiling. An avens (Geum coccineum) with its tall stems and small orange flowers sets a contrast to the bold and flashy orange of an Oriental poppy (Papaver orientale).

Joan hopes for the beautification of Flagstaff, its streets, sidewalks, and businesses. "Too often," she said, "we rely on the beauty of our natural surroundings, the mountains and the forests, but not the beauty of the city itself." Along with eye-catching landscapes around businesses, she also suggests planters on sidewalks, hanging baskets of various succulents, and even tossing hollyhock seeds along alleys and in sidewalk cracks.

If gardeners want to learn beautiful gardening, just as writers learn to write by reading good writing, there is no better way than looking at Joan’s roadside art galleries.
Joan at can be reached at Joanieabbott@aol.com.

By Dana Prom Smith and Debbie Grosshauser
The authors are Master Gardener volunteers for the Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:25 AM

Sucessful High Country Gardening with Jan Busco

Americans move, 20 percent a year. Our history is tied to wagons, trains, cars, airplanes, the Great Cumberland Road, the Santa Fe Trail, the Ohio and the Mississippi Rivers, Highway 66, and the Interstates. The words "pilgrim," "pioneer," and "frontier" are a part of the American myth.

When people move to a new place, nostalgically they like to plant a reminder of back home. And so it is with Flagstaff’s gardens, littered with "back home" plants that don’t do well on the Colorado Plateau. Often as not, they turn up their heels and kick the bucket only to suffer the final indignities of Environmental Services.

Some people give up and plaster their gardens with gravel, a couple of big rocks, a cow skull, wagon wheel, and a few ground-hugging junipers. Some even plant their decks with plastic palms and pink flamingos. No so Janice Busco. With a degree from California State University, Pomona, in ornamental horticulture and soil science and a master’s degree in progress from NAU in forestry, she believes in going native with a flair. As a former horticulturist at The Arboretum, she knows whereof she speaks.

Coming from a long line of Italian-descended gardeners in San Diego, she began life with a love of plants and has written several books on gardening. Native Plants for High-Elevation Western Gardens (Fulcrum Press 2004), written with Nancy Morin, has become a standard manual for gardening on the Colorado Plateau. She also has penned How to Get Started in Southwestern Gardening (Cool Springs Press 2005).

Jan begins with the premise that plants deserve respect. More than being ornaments, they are life-sustaining, offering food, protection, and shelter. Seeing a garden as a form of art, she favors a palette of plants that begins with natives, assuming it is better to cooperate with nature than fight it which is always a losing battle. As she says, "natives are fragrant, durable, and delightful," such as the western sneezeweed (Hymenoxys hoopesii), Eaton’s firecracker (Penstemon catonii), and the familiar silvery lupine (Lupinus argenteus).
Along with natives, she believes a palette of plants could include adapted plants those which are not native but do well on the Colorado Plateau, such as the ubiquitous Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), garden phlox (Phlox paniculata), and ‘Moonshine’ yarrow (Achillea fillipendulina ‘Moonshine’). Functional and decorative, the adapted provide food, flavor, beauty, and color with extended periods of bloom.

Along with using natives and adapted plants, Jan believes in successful gardening. Horticulturally, she’s a pragmatist. She asks, "Do the plants work?" "Does the peach tree produce fruit?" "Do the hummingbirds feed on the Sunset Crater penstemon (Penstemon clutei)?" "Do the plantings keep the threat of fire at bay?"

Of course, water is the ever-present issue. "Drought tolerant" varies with the location whether the garden is in meadowland, a ponderosa pine forest, a pinyon-juniper woodland, or semi-desert grassland. Even within a given yard there can be several micro-climates, some requiring more water than the others.

Jan and her knowledge and nursery, hold forth at the Mountain Meadow Farm. She can be contacted at JaniceBusco@gmail.com or at the Community Farmers’ Market.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:21 AM

Hotline - Got a Garden Question?

Spring is finally here. Aside from the flowering plums and budding lilacs, one sure sign of its arrival is the start of the Master Gardener Hotline. If you have a gardening question, the Master Gardener Hotline has answers for you!

The Coconino County Master Gardener Program, in conjunction with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, is sponsoring the Master Gardener Hotline. This is a free information service for area home gardeners. Master Gardener volunteers are available to address your garden and urban horticulture questions and concerns.

This year the hotline will operate from May 1 through September 30, 2005. You can leave a message anytime, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Our voice mail center will record your questions and information.

When calling the hotline, please state your name and phone number clearly, and provide a description of your question or problem. Then let us know when the best time to return your call is. A Master Gardener volunteer will research your problem and return your call.

The hotline phone number is (928) 774-1868 ext. 19. You can leave a message at any time and a Master Gardener volunteer will return your call within 72 hours.

The Master Gardener Program is a volunteer-training that provides Master Gardeners with an opportunity to improve their horticultural knowledge and skills. Master Gardeners then volunteer their services to their community by answering garden questions, conducting garden programs, and working on community beautification projects and other activities related to gardening. The 2005 Master Gardener class is busy completing their requirements to become certified Master Gardeners. Answering hotline calls helps them fulfill their requirements. For more information about the Coconino Master Gardener Program, you may leave a message on the hotline or email to hbraun@ag.arizona.edu.

Not all questions or problems have an easy answer or solution but volunteer Master Gardeners will make every attempt to help. In addition to their personal knowledge, the volunteers have a copy of the Arizona Master Gardener Manuel at their fingertips.

Here are some common questions that we have answered in the past.

What are those bag-shaped things at the tops of my pine trees?
Those bags are likely the tents created by the caterpillars of tiger moths. This is a defoliating insect that constructs a dense mat of silk on the top of ponderosa pine and other conifers. These insects attract a lot of attention because their tents are so conspicuous. Tiger moths have several natural enemies such as birds, predaceous bugs and hunting wasps. Because of these natural controls, this insect seldom causes any significant injury and serious outbreaks are rare. Control is needed only when there is considerable defoliation over several years.

I have a shady yard. Are there any vegetables that do well without full sun?
While there are few shade-loving vegetables, there are many that are shade-tolerant and capable of producing a decent crop with five hours or less of direct sun per day. Vegetables for shade are usually leafy and include leaf lettuce, Swiss chard, arugula, kale, mustard and spinach. If you have good morning sun, you can also try beets, radishes, broccoli, and brussel sprouts. There are also many herbs that handle partial shade such as bee balm, borage, mint, chives, coriander, parsley, lemon balm, and thyme.

I struggle to grow tomatoes and just when I think I'll be able to enjoy the fruits of my labor, my tomatoes develop brown spots on the bottom. What's going on?
The problem is likely due to tomato blossom end rot, a physiological disorder resulting from a calcium deficiency. Often there is enough calcium in the soil but insufficient calcium fails to reach the blossom end of the fruit causing the cells in that area to die. Uneven moisture often contributes to this problem. To minimize the development of this disorder, maintain even soil moisture throughout the growing season through consistent irrigation and mulching. Tomato varieties differ in their resistance to blossom end rot; elongated pear or plum tomatoes are most prone to this disorder. Unfortunately, when environmental conditions favor blossom end rot, all varieties can show symptoms.

This winter was really hard on my plum trees and several large branches were broken. When is the best time to prune them? Should I dress the wounds?
Broken or damaged limbs can be removed any time. Make a clean cut just outside of the branch collar (a slightly raised area where the branch attaches to the trunk or another branch.) If the broken limb damaged the trunk, clean up any loose and damaged bark and wood. Wound dressing is not necessary and not recommended as it can harbor disease organisms and may actually create conditions favorable for decay. Leaving the wound undressed allows the tree's natural defenses to seal off the damaged area. If pruning safety is an issue, consider hiring a certified arborist or tree care professional.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener Program and a Master Gardener.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:18 AM

Fall and Winter Watering

Marianne C. Ophardt
Washington State University Cooperative Extension
Area Extension Agent
When irrigation water is turned off and systems blown out in the fall, your landscape plants still need water. Foggy mornings, heavy frost, and cloudy skies often give a false impression that plants have adequate soil moisture. Relatively dry air and low or no measurable precipitation lead to dry soils. This means that even in the fall and winter... trees, shrubs, and lawn grasses need water to avoid drought stress. This is particularly true during the fall and early winter when there is little or no snow cover... or when there is an extended warm fall.

Fall and winter watering can be crucial to having healthy plants in the landscape. During the summer we are clued in to water stress by wilting and dropping leaves. Plants that experience fall and winter drought can’t tell us something is wrong until the next year when they fail to thrive the next year. Fall and winter drought can lead to root injury or death. These drought-injured plants may not show symptoms of the problem until the next season or even the next year. In fact they may leaf out and flower just fine in the spring, relying on stored food reserves. Once that energy supply runs out plants weaken and start dying back. Even if a plant isn’t killed outright, it is made more susceptible to insect and disease attack.

This type of “winter” injury seems to be more common than we realize in this area. For the past several years, we have been losing many of our area birches. This has been attributed to past winter droughts and cold temperatures without the benefit of insulating snow cover. Birches are particularly sensitive to fall and winter drought. Weakened by this, the birch trees that weren’t killed outright have become increasingly susceptible to attack by the bronze birch borer, which attacks and eventually kills weakened birch trees.

Other shade trees are also susceptible to winter drought damage, especially those with shallow root systems. This includes Norway maple, silver maple, linden, Colorado blue spruce, Norway spruce, and many other evergreens. Shrubs are also vulnerable to winter drought damage, especially those growing up close to the house or in a warmer location. This includes junipers, Oregon grape-holly, and euonymus.

So what’s the answer? It’s simple.... water the landscape in the plants and the fall. Yes, it will be work and you’ll have to use your domestic water but, the effort will be worth it when you see that your plants survive and others around you don’t do as well as yours. I’m not talking about watering plants every day. .... you’ll probably only have to water a couple of times in the fall to prevent damage.

The most critical time to water is in the fall just before cold weather hits or during extended warm weather. It’s interesting to note that not so many years ago, horticulturists thought it was a good practice to insure dormancy by drought stressing plants in the fall and this decreased the chance of winter injury. Research since then has indicated that the reverse is true... so now we try to insure plants aren’t drought stressed in the fall. The soil should be kept slightly moist down to a depth of 18 inches for most shrugs and a depth of 18 to 24 inches for trees. Water only when the air temperature is above freezing and the soil isn’t frozen... which isn’t usually much of a problem during the fall but can be during winter dry spells. Water early in the day to allow water time to drain away from the bases of plants. (Frozen water next to the bark can physically damage trees and shrubs.) Soaker hoses work well for applying the water slowly and where needed.

Since fall and winter watering will be more labor intensive for you, apply the water where it counts the most... in the root zone. Consider that established trees have roots that go out at least as far as the tree is tall and usually further. It is in the “dripline” and just beyond where most of the water should be applied. The “dripline” is an imaginary vertical line that is perpendicular to the longest side branches of the tree and perpendicular to the ground. Water applied at the tree trunk base is wasted because there are no water absorbing roots there.
Watering recently planted trees and shrubs is a different story. Their roots don’t go out that far yet. In this case you will want to water the root ball zone and just beyond. The aim is to water where the roots are. This makes sense doesn’t it?

Keep in mind that even if we do get lots of rain during the fall, shrubs and trees close to the house foundation or located under eaves may still need watering. Located in these areas, they receive little precipitation and they lose more moisture than other plants because of their proximity to the structure and reflected heat from the walls.

Fall and Winter Watering - January 3, 2001
Jeff Schalau, County Director, Agent, Agriculture & Natural Resources
Arizona Cooperative Extension, Yavapai County
________________________________________
After last year's dry/warm winter, a meager monsoon season, and a long dry spell since early November, I better start talking about winter watering. Several residents contacted the Cottonwood Cooperative Extension office about dead pine trees and I suspect many of the pest problems we saw were drought induced. Let's prepare ourselves for drought this year by irrigating our trees properly during the winter.

During fall and winter, we often experience dry air, little precipitation, and wide daily temperature fluctuations. This is made worse when the weather is drier and colder than normal. Trees, shrubs, and turf may be damaged if not given supplemental irrigation. As a rule of thumb, evergreens need more supplemental water than do deciduous ones.

Long, dry fall and winter periods can result in death or injury to plant root systems. Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring utilizing stored energy reserves, only to weaken and die in late spring or early summer when the stored energy runs out. Weaken plants are also more susceptible to insect and disease problem later.

Green leaves need water to facilitate photosynthesis and respiration. To supply themselves with water, leaves are constantly pumping water (transpiring) from the soil into the roots then through the stem into the leaves. The excess water is lost from the leaves and goes into the atmosphere. Plants without winter foliage do best when there is some soil moisture, but their requirement is much lower.

Recently planted trees and shrubs are especially susceptible to damage from lack of adequate soil moisture. Once a healthy root system is established, they will be less susceptible to drought. Even xeriscape (drought tolerant) plants can benefit from infrequent winter irrigation. In addition, plants with shallow root systems require greater or more frequent winter irrigation. Some of these are pine, spruce, juniper (non-native types), Euonymous, and Oregon grape.

My recommended method of watering where no irrigation system exists is the soaker hose: the black, rubber, porous type. These are relatively inexpensive and can be placed semi-permanently or moved from place to place depending on individual circumstances and needs. They put the water down slowly and close to the soil.

Apply irrigation early in the day so it can soak in before possible freezing occurs during the night. If significant amounts of water freeze at the base of a tree or shrub, it can result in bark damage. For established landscape trees and shrubs, four to six weeks should be the maximum amount of time between irrigations. Of course this varies with soil texture and species.

On established trees and shrubs, place the hoses in a circle starting about four or five feet from the trunk and coil the soaker hose around the tree leaving about two feet between each coil. Leave the hose running until water soaks in to a depth of about two feet. This can be checked with a metal probe or long screwdriver.

To encourage newly planted trees (planted in that location for two years or less) to develop more extensive root systems, water from the trunk to at least one foot beyond the drip line of the canopy.

I have two motives in writing this column. First, for those of you that lost (or almost lost) a favorite tree or shrub last year, this should increase your chances of success in the future. Second, by encouraging everyone to irrigate, it should increase our chances of getting some rain. Hey, on that note, why don't you wash your car too? All goofiness aside, I hope you all have a wonderful gardening new year!

The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension has publications and information on plant selection and soils. If you have other gardening questions, call the Master Gardener line in the Cottonwood office at 646-9113 or E-mail us at mgardener@kachina.net and be sure to include your address and phone number. The Yavapai County Cooperative Extension web site is http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/.

Fall/winter
Most homeowners realize the need for watering during the growing season, however many may not realize the need to water when their trees and shrubs are dormant. During this time, some root development may occur, especially for newly planted trees and shrubs. Without water they may dehydrate and die before spring. Winter watering can help save your trees. Even though trees are dormant during the winter, their root systems need moisture to remain alive. Since winter temperatures in Colorado fluctuate greatly, it is best to closely observe soil conditions to determine when watering is needed. For extended warm, dry winters even established trees need supplemental watering.

Periods of drought are common on Colorado's Front Range but even in years when drought is not a concern winter watering is crucial! This area is naturally a semi-arid, shortgrass prairie that would have few trees without irrigation. Growing trees here is difficult in wet years, not to mention the challenges in drought years. Properly placed and maintained trees are an asset to the environment and to our community.

Evergreen trees are more at risk from drying winter conditions and need more water to survive because they retain their needles and can lose water all winter long. Winter winds can compound the problem by pulling water from the needles. Winter damage is typically more severe when trees are located on hot, dry exposures such as the south or west sides of structures. Symptoms from lack of winter watering can appear immediately and will include browning of needles. The entire tree may be affected.

Even though deciduous trees appear dormant during the winter, their root systems continue to slowly grow and need moisture to survive. Water is lost through twigs and must be replaced to prevent damage. Deciduous trees most at risk from drying winter conditions are shallow-rooted species such as maples, lindens, birches and any recently planted tree. Damage from lack of winter watering won’t show up until the following spring and could include branch dieback, reduced leaf size, chlorosis (yellowing of leaves) or tree mortality.

Some winter watering tips:
• Water your deciduous and evergreen trees up to two times a month between October and March.
• Check soil moisture levels around the dripline of the tree to determine how much water is needed. To accurately determine soil moisture, dig down at least 4-6 inches.
• Water during the day when temperatures are above 40 degrees to allow the water to soak in before freezing night temperatures. Do not water if soil is frozen. Hand watering, soaker hose or drip applications are allowed up to two hours per area with no day or time restrictions.
• Soaker hoses, soil needles or hoses with a soft spray attachment can be used to water trees in the winter. Do not turn on your irrigation system to water your trees.
• How much water your tree should receive depends upon the tree size. A general rule of thumb is to use approximately 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter for each watering. Measure trunk diameter at knee height. General formula: Tree Diameter x 5 min. = Total Watering Time
• The most important area to water for deciduous trees is within the dripline (from the trunk to the outer edges of the trees branches). For evergreens, water 3-5 feet beyond the dripline on all sides of the tree.
• Maintain mulch 4inches deep around trees and shrubs to retain moisture. Pull mulch back from the tree trunk. Mulch is available free to Boulder residents from Western Disposal.

Well-timed fall and winter watering may allow a tree to survive on less water than a regime of plentiful water applications during the growing season.

www.ci.broomfield.co.us/environment/Fall&Winter_Tree_Watering.shtml

Winter drought happens at least one out of 3 years where I live. It is still cold at night (often well below zero) and sunny in the day with periods (weeks sometimes) of daytime temperatures rising well above 32 degrees and the freeze thaw cycle is harsh on trees and plants. They will need watering when the weather is like that. Mulch helps too.

Here's what I learned. Water once a month unless there is snow on the ground. Water in the morning so the water has a chance to soak into the ground. Pine trees, in particular, are vulnerable to drying out. The junipers need a drink, too. Some people apply a waxy spray, an anti-dessicant, to their plants. I don't use it, however. Too much fuss, and I've heard it's will take the blue color away from my dwarf blue spruce.

Turf lawns also need a drink, particularly if there is no snow cover, warmer temps (40's daytime) and winds. People should, believe it or not, water their dormant, brown-ugly bluegrass lawns once a month in winter. (Yet another reason not to plant bluegrass lawns!) In extremely dry situations, the turf roots can dry up and die. If you have to water outside in winter, don't overdo it. Just a little water will go a long way. I sure wished I had watered. I would have saved some money and a lot of time and digging.

Category: Winter Care
Author:
Keywords: water, winter
Date Article was Written: December, 2001
Western ecosystems rely on winter snowfall as a crucial part of their yearly water supply. Unfortunately this year the weather seems a bit uncooperative in the precipitation department. Add to that problem higher than normal daytime temperatures—producing more rapid transpiration—and you have a garden in need of some healthy watering.

So what is healthy winter watering? Remember these basic tips:
• Before the winter started we suggested once a month watering—with the dry weather, amend your watering schedule to once every three weeks. If the dry weather continues, you may need to go to twice monthly watering. Keep an eye on the skies.
• Water only when the air temperature is above freezing. You’ll want to apply water early in the day so that it will have time to soak in before nighttime freezing. If water stands around the base of a tree it can freeze and damage the bark. Heavy coatings of ice on turfgrasses can cause suffocation or result in matting of the grass.
• Lawn grasses are prone to winter damage-especially newly planted lawns, both sod and seeded. Pay particular attention to turf on southern exposures.
• As a rule of thumb, evergreen trees need more water than deciduous ones. Any plant with shallow root systems, such as pine, spruce, non-native juniper, Euonymous and Oregon grape will be more susceptible to winter damage.
• When watering woody plants that have been planted in the last two seasons, the most important area to water is the distance from halfway between the plant and the outer stretch of the branches to approximately one foot beyond the “drip line” of branch extremities. This also prevents water from building up near the trunk of the plant.
• The purpose of winter watering is not to provide water for the plant to draw up its stem—rather, to provide water to prevent the roots from desiccating in the cold dry ground. It can be hard to remember to water when you don’t have a wilting plant as a visual clue. Write a reminder every three weeks on your calendar.
• Remember to water newly planted bulbs as well. By nature a bulb stores a lot of water, which aids in its production of spring blooms. Bulbs left unwatered over the winter will not have the ability to sprout in the spring.
So spend some time in the garden this weekend giving out good soakings for the New Year. Your plants will amply reward you for your kindness come springtime.

Winter Watering

Category: Winter Care
Author: Cindy Bellinger
Keywords: plant loss, water, winter
Date Article was Written: December, 2002
This winter might be wetter than last year. Let’s hope so. But in the event that the rain and snow levels aren’t quite what the Western garden expects or needs, then you’re looking at doing some supplemental watering over the winter.

Amazing as it is, plant loss in the winter is more commonly caused by lack of water than by freezing temperatures. If properly cared for, cold-hardy plants can make it through brutally cold weather. They are adaptable. But they can’t go without water.

Even dormant plants still need moisture to maintain their physiological and biochemical changes that make them tolerant of the cold. The rule of thumb is to water thoroughly once every 2-3 weeks through the fall. Then depending on the amount of precipitation and severity of cold temperatures, keep up this watering schedule throughout the winter months. In some places the ground is often too solidly frozen in late Dec. and Jan. to water, but begins to thaw enough by mid Feb. to resume supplemental irrigation.

Though it may look like nothing is really happening in the garden, plants are busy producing high concentrations of dissolved sugars, amino acids and other soluble organic molecules. Within cells a higher concentration of chemically-bound water is essential for these processes to occur. This chemically bound water also helps maintain the elasticity of the protoplasm, or the liquid interior of a cell. And this is what makes a plant remain resilient during freezing temperatures

Yes, it’s all very detailed and scientific, and botanists continue researching the cold-hardy factor in plants. But for us common backyard gardeners, all we really need to know is watering is one way to assure that roots won’t try out.

Try to water mid-day so the moisture has time to soak into the ground before freezing again at night. Even if soil is frozen, it will absorb water, often dissolving the ice enough to help aerate the ground.

When watering woody plants that have been planted in the last two seasons, the most important area to water is away from the trunk. Find the distance halfway between the plant and the outer stretch of the branches to approximately one foot beyond the “drip line.” It’s this area that needs to be kept moist, as the root hairs spread horizontally. Doing this also prevents water from building up near the trunk of the plant where it can freeze and damage the bark.
For those of us who have planted bulbs this fall or in past years, it is essential that we keep them well irrigated when the fall and winter weather is dry. This is when the root growth occurs and a critical time for adequate soil moisture. Occasional deep soakings during a dry spring when the flowers and foliage emerge is also necessary for a good show of flowers. Prolonged dryness from fall through spring will result in a poor showing of flowers the following spring.
In full sun flower beds, where moist soil repeatedly freezes and thaws, heaving of shallowly rooted plants will occasionally take place. Heaved plants can fracture taproots as well as lateral roots, sometimes resulting in elevated crowns that can quickly dry out a plant. When plants heave from the soil push them back in and mulch generously to shade the soil and keep it frozen, thus preventing the freeze/thaw cycle.

But don’t despair. It’s not all gloomy. Just remember your garden is a living entity year round and if we get snow and rain this winter, great. If not, give your garden a touch of extra tender care and come springtime it will reward you with healthy, strong and happy plants.

Fall & Winter Watering
Fall and winter watering is critical to the health and vigor of landscape plantings especially under drought conditions. Unfortunately, winter watering is often overlooked. Even worse, many people believe that watering during the winter will freeze roots. This is completely false. Even though trees and shrubs appear to go dormant during the winter months, root systems will remain active until the soil temperature drops below 40 degrees. Even then, some deep roots may continue to absorb much needed moisture through the entire winter. The lack of winter moisture is one of the main dangers plants in our region face. Plants that do not receive adequate winter moisture may not leaf out well in the spring. Or, they may leaf out well but begin to exhibit stress symptoms indicated by browning leaves in early summer. The plants show stress when they do because they have leafed out using all of the stored energy in the branches, twigs and buds. Once the energy is depleted, dehydrated roots struggle to keep up. Just when the water demand within the plant increases to supply the new leaves, and the overall evapotranspiration rate climbs due to summer heat, the root system now cannot supply it. Supplemental water should be applied periodically to the landscape during dry years from October through March.

Fall and Winter Watering
by J.E. Klett and C. Wilson1

Quick Facts...
• Water trees, shrubs and lawns during prolonged dry fall and winter periods to prevent root damage that affects the health of the entire plant.
• Water only when air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees F with no snow cover.
• Established large trees have a root spread equal to or greater than the height of the tree. Apply water to the most critical part of the root zone within the dripline.
Dry air, low precipitation, little soil moisture, and fluctuating temperatures are characteristics of fall and winter in many areas of Colorado. There often can be little or no snow cover to provide soil moisture, particularly from October through February. Trees, shrubs, perennials and lawns can be damaged if they do not receive supplemental water.
The result of long, dry periods during fall and winter is injury or death to parts of plant root systems. Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring using stored food energy. Plants may be weakened and all or parts may die in late spring or early summer when temperatures rise. Weakened plants also may be subject to insect and disease problems.

Plants Sensitive to Drought Injury
Woody plants with shallow root systems require supplemental watering during extended dry fall and winter periods. These include European white and paper birches; Norway, silver, red and Rocky Mountain and hybrid maples; lindens, alder, hornbeams, dogwood and mountain ash. Evergreen plants that benefit include spruce, fir, arborvitae, yew, Oregon grape-holly and Manhattan euonymus. Woody plants benefit from mulch to conserve soil moisture.

Herbaceous perennials in exposed sites are more subject to winter freezing and thawing. This opens cracks in soil that expose roots to cold and drying. Winter watering combined with mulching can prevent damage (See fact sheet 7.214, Mulches for Home Grounds.)

Lawns also are prone to winter damage. Newly established lawns, whether seed or sod, are especially susceptible to damage. Susceptibility increases for lawns with south or west exposures.

Watering Guidelines
Water only when air temperatures are above 40 degrees F. Apply water at mid-day so it will have time to soak in before possible freezing at night. A solid layer (persisting for more than a month) of ice on lawns can cause suffocation or result in matting of the grass.

Plants receiving reflected heat from buildings, walls and fences are more subject to damage. The low angle of winter sun makes this more likely in south or west exposures. Windy sites result in faster drying of sod and plants and require additional water.

Monitor weather conditions and water during extended dry periods—one to two times per month without snow cover.

Newly Planted vs. Established Plants
Newly planted trees are most susceptible to winter drought injury. Woody trees generally take one year to establish for each inch of trunk diameter. For example, a two inch diameter (caliper) tree takes a minimum of two years to establish under normal conditions. (See fact sheet 7.226, Care of Young Transplanted Trees.)

Trees obtain water best when it is allowed to soak into the soil slowly to a depth of 12 inches. Methods of watering trees include: sprinklers, deep-root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand. Apply water to many locations under the dripline and beyond if possible. If you use a deep-root fork or needle, insert no deeper than 8 inches into the soil. (See fact sheet 7.240, Home Landscape Watering During Drought.) As a general survival rule, apply 10 gallons of water for each diameter inch of the tree. For example, a two-inch diameter tree, needs 20 gallons per watering. Use a ruler to measure your tree’s diameter.

Newly planted shrubs require more water than established shrubs that have been planted for at least one year. The following recommendations assume shrubs are mulched to retain moisture. In dry winters, all shrubs benefit from winter watering from October through March. Apply 5 gallons two times per month for a newly planted shrub. Small established shrubs (less than 3 feet tall) should receive 5 gallons monthly. Large established shrubs (more than 6 feet) require 18 gallons on a monthly basis. Decrease amounts to account for precipitation. Water within the dripline of the shrub and around the base.

Herbaceous perennial establishment periods vary. Bare root plants require longer to establish that container plants. Plants transplanted late in the summer or fall will not establish as quickly as plants planted in the spring. Winter watering is advisable with late planted perennials, bare root plants, and perennials located in windy or southwest exposures.
For more information, see the following Planttalk ColoradoTM script.
1751, Fall and Winter Watering: during drought

1J.E. Klett, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension horticulture specialist and professor, horticulture and landscape architecture; and C. Wilson, Extension horticulture agent, Denver County. 1/04.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:13 AM

Flagstaff Fabulous Plants

After more than 100 inches of snow (so far) this winter, with reservoirs full and soils saturated, it seems strange to be writing about the importance of conserving our precious water. Is it easier to justify the need to conserve water when you do not have it? Maybe so. Until recently, it was common to overhear people lamenting water shortages and threatening to start practicing water-saving techniques.

All that talk about a “drought” is behind us now, right? The word “drought” seems misleading, for it implies we are experiencing an unusually dry time. However, long-term climatological records suggest our part of the Southwest has experienced longer and more extreme "dry" and "wet" periods than we have recently been through. Given this history, it might be better to think of these dry periods as part of a larger cycle, and plan for them. Therefore, the best time to save water for the future is when you have it. That means now.

County Supervisor Paul Babbitt had the wisdom to realize that water is a persistent and intensifying issue, touching the lives of every citizen. Consequently, he took steps to promote water conservation by approving monies through the Coconino County Community Funding Initiative. As The Arboretum at Flagstaff’s new Conservation Director, a position partially funded by the Initiative, one of my major tasks is to identify and coordinate water conservation programs that benefit the community.

Although the need to conserve water seems an easy and honorable concept to promote, identifying practical methods people will actually use is challenging. Even well-designed programs succeed only when they work with, rather than against, human nature. Even then, it may take time for people to discover, accept, and begin to use new techniques. The challenge is to identify improvements in the way we use water and then develop sensible methods that work with human behavior.

Like most cities in the Southwestern United States, there is a predictable pattern in Flagstaff water use; residential water use doubles during drier, warmer months as residents begin watering lawns and gardens. Like many cities, Flagstaff has developed watering schedules and a tiered fee structure to encourage more efficient water use during the driest months. These schedules and fees are effective methods for reducing water use.

There are many ways to save water in gardens and landscapes. These include techniques like soil terracing, rainwater harvesting, mulching, and choosing appropriate plants. Choosing the right plants is of particular interest to The Arboretum as our mission is “to increase the understanding, appreciation, and conservation of plants and plant communities native to the Colorado Plateau.”

In our quest to satisfy the need for beautiful, lasting gardens that save time and water, we began developing a "Flagstaff Fabulous Plant" list. Many cities in the Southwest have developed regional plant lists, but many of these lists feature lower-elevation plants and often include an unacceptable number of non-native species. Here on the Colorado Plateau, we have focused on developing a list specific to our region, as plants must endure our high altitude, short growing season, dryness, and cold temperatures. We also wanted to promote the use of ecologically responsible plants.

Developing the Flagstaff Fabulous Plant list required knowledge and experience from a diverse group of business people, botanists, horticulturists, agency officials, artists, and marketing specialists. Building this team of experts ultimately resulted in the creation of the “Flagstaff Xeriscape Council.” The Council is dedicated to assisting the community with water conservation, especially in gardens and landscapes. For more information about the Council, visit www.flagstaff.az.gov/index.asp?NID=112.

Although it helps to know which plants do well in this region, even the most durable plants may not thrive if their needs are overlooked. Gardeners know from experience that a plant list is valuable, but information about plant care is also essential. Therefore, the Council began working to develop a brochure that includes the list of plants along with helpful information about their care.

Only recently completed, our brochure is already becoming popular with homeowners, landscapers, developers, and the city of Flagstaff’s Planning Department. Each plant selected for the list meets a set of criteria: commercial availability, ecologically appropriate, full sun, low-water use, low maintenance, adapted to this climate, and able to provide color and texture to the garden. The list should be considered an introduction to plants that thrive in Flagstaff gardens. Motivated gardeners will find that there are many more plants and techniques available for creating beautiful gardens. The brochure is available on The Arboretum’s Water Conservation web page: www.thearb.org/waterconservation.htm.

Brian Keeley is the Conservation Director at the Arboretum at Flagstaff.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:12 AM

Horticultlural Therapy

About two years ago I retired as an Occupational Therapist from Flagstaff Medical Center. I was working on-call and found that besides the limitations of aging, my work was beginning to interfere with my real interest in life – gardening. Although gardening in Flagstaff was (and still is) a challenge, I found that it improved my physical and mental well-being tremendously. Through a friend at the Arboretum I learned about a profession called Horticultural Therapy. I was intrigued. I decided to take an introductory course through the Horticultural Therapy Institute in Denver. To my surprise it turned out to be very much like Occupational Therapy except the activities used for treatment were garden or plant related rather than based on daily living skills.

Horticultural Therapy or HT is really a very old concept. People have found solace in nature from almost the beginning of time. Even at the time of Christ, it was understood that the peaceful, non-threatening environment of the garden had a quieting effect on people. The first recorded use of horticulture as a treatment occurred in Egypt when court physicians prescribed walks in the palace gardens for royalty who were mentally disturbed.

Using the connection between people and plants did not become an accepted treatment until the late 1700’s and early 1800’s. It wasn’t until after World War I that HT was used for those with physical disabilities. The first college curriculum was provided by Kansas State University in 1972, and a formal organization was developed the following year. In 1988 the organization became the American Horticultural Therapy Association (AHTA) which exists today for members to formally register. (You can visit the American Horticultural Therapy Association website at www.ahta.org or call 800-634-1603 for more information.)

So just what is HT? The association defines it as “a process through which plants, gardening activities, and the innate closeness we all feel toward nature are used as vehicles in professionally conducted programs of therapy and rehabilitation.” A HT program should include the populations served, setting specific goals and providing treatment activities with plants and plant related materials. The populations that are served by HT are numerous. To name a few: nursing homes, Alzheimer care facilities, senior day care centers, hospice programs, assisted living communities, cancer treatment programs, hospitals, community mental health agencies, correctional institutions, schools, park and recreation departments and programs for youth at risk.

Why does HT work? One of my favorite quotes comes from HT pioneer, Charles A. Lewis. “Plants possess life-enhancing qualities that encourage people to respond to them. In a judgmental world, plants are non-threatening and non-discriminating. They are living entities that respond directly to the care that is given them, not to the intellectual or physical capacities of the gardener. In short, they provide a benevolent setting in which a person can take the first steps toward confidence.”

Think about yourself. Why do you like to garden or be out in nature? Some reasons might be for exercise or stress relief, or to challenge the mind (especially in Flagstaff). Maybe you want to grow fresh, chemical-free food or to gain a sense of accomplishment or to make new friends with similar interests. Perhaps you want to stimulate the senses. This can be visual (color), auditory (think of Aspens in the wind), taste (Stevia instead of sugar), smell (my personal favorite is Rosemary) and last but not least tactile (my favorites are silver mound and lamb’s ear).

Finally, gardening and nature promote healing. There are studies from hospitals that show putting a patient’s bed in front of a window with a view of nature instead of a wall, has resulted in fewer pain medication requests, lower blood pressure, and earlier discharges.

I have used the ideas and concepts gained through my HT classes to work as a volunteer at two facilities in Flagstaff – Loyalton Assisted Living and Olivia White Hospice Home. In both places adaptations were provided to allow those with limitations to garden, and gardens were provided to allow people to be out in nature safely. Residents and family members welcomed the gardens either by enjoying the smell of flowers, being out in the fresh air, tasting just picked vegetables, or because of the physical activity of gardening and the social interaction with their fellow gardeners.

I leave you with a favorite quote by Alfred Austin (1835-1913).
“The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature
To nurture a garden is to feed not just the body, but the soul.
Share the botanical bliss of gardeners through the ages,
Who have cultivated philosophies to apply to their own, and our own lives.
Show me your garden and I shall tell you what you are.”

On Saturday, June 18, 2005, I will teach a class at Coconino Community College on Horticultural Therapy with a special focus on seniors. The class will run from 9:00 a.m. to noon. We will discuss the principles of HT and explore the tools and methods available to allow us to continue to garden as we age. We will finish with an activity out in the Community Garden. To register for this class, call Coconino Community College Registration at 928-526-7644. The fee is $30.

By Loni Shapiro
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:11 AM

The Quest for the Wild Pear

Each October for the last six years, our family has undertaken a quest to visit a wild pear tree. Located in a small, quiet canyon south of town, this pear tree is both a mystery and a treat. We are puzzled by how it got there and we are delighted by the sweet fruit it can produce.

Our wild pear is a stranger to Arizona as wild pears are native to Great Britain. The seed may have come from a hiker’s lunch or an animal’s scat, or perhaps it was transported down the wash by a flood from civilization that’s just a few miles away. Despite its unknown history, it found a place to germinate, sprout and thrive.

The special canyon seems to be the ideal location for the pear. Decent soil, light shade, little exposure, and periodic moisture are all conditions under which a pear can flourish. The pear’s surroundings in the wash provide a moister environment than the drier hillsides. Native trees and canyon walls give protection from the sun and wind. The lush vegetation prevents erosion and allows the organic matter from decaying leaves to remain in place and enrich the soil. Nature has created the ideal environment for growing this mysterious tree; these are just the conditions that we would try to provide if we were planting a fruit tree in our garden.

Many other plants join the pear in making the riparian canyon their home: boxelder, aspen, white fir and Douglas-fir are native trees found in the wash. Willow, red-stem dogwood, snowberry, wax current, and woods rose are abundant. Virginia creeper and Arizona grape scramble among rocks in the creek bottom. As in many riparian areas, poison ivy also flourishes there so we always watch our step.

Surprisingly, pears can grow with periodic drought and are hardy to temperatures well below freezing. But even this tough tree struggled during the drought of 2002. Like many unirrigated trees native or not, it suffered considerable branch dieback. And, it produced no fruit. Miraculously, it survived the drought and it continues to grow and prosper.

The delight of this tree is not only that it grows in a secret canyon but that sometimes it bears fruit. No different than other fruit trees grown at high elevations, its fruit production is unpredictable and is not always an annual event. The clear, cold nights of spring likely damage the delicate blossoms in many years and prevent fruit from being formed. Even in years when the conditions are right for fruit production, we do not always find fruit. We may be competing with fellow hikers or hungry animals. This year we found three diminutive, but deliciously sweet pears. We savored them in the shade of a cliff decorated with ancient petroglyphs.

We look forward to next year's quest. Will the tree be laden with fruit as it has been in the past, or will it be barren? But whether we find fruit or not, we always delight in seeing this special tree, visiting an unsoiled canyon so close to town, and seeing the riot of autumn colors in the riparian forest where the pear tree lives. Our quest is a reminder that growing plants in northern Arizona is not always about the product but rather the marvel of plant endurance in a challenging environment.

Hattie Braun is the Master Gardener program coordinator for Arizona Cooperative Extension Coconino County. Tom Kolb teaches forestry at Northern Arizona University.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:09 AM

Debbie Grosshauser, A Walking Green Thumb

Debbie Grosshauser’s a walking green thumb. A tall, slim, fair-skinned attractive woman with three small children, she transformed a hole in the ground in her front yard into a garden sanctuary. With occasional help from her artist husband, visiting relatives, and a rock-hauling day laborer, she developed a beckoning rock garden surrounding a small dot of a lawn with an inviting bench.

Beginning with a bleak moon-scape akin to a miniature Meteor Crater, she’s been creating her garden gradually, not creatio ex nihilo, but, more dauntingly, out of a contractor’s leftover antimatter. Put simply, she made lemonade out of a lemon.

Her secret is creation by evolution, not the fiat of a pricey professional landscaper. She said, "You know, you can tell a professionally landscaped garden. It looks like all the others." She didn’t speak and it happened. Rather, she’s been working at it piece by piece over several years with the result that her garden bears her image.

Debbie’s intelligent design has evolved as her garden has evolved. In the beginning, she stood in her front yard pit and envisioned a terraced rock garden. When she and her husband moved to Flagstaff from Helena, Montana, she bought some plants at the Arboretum at Flagstaff’s plant sale while they were staying in a motel waiting for completion of their house. "I just wanted some beauty in that dismal mess the contractor left us."

Her colorful garden has evolved as she has moved from annuals to perennials, especially water-wise perennials. She says, "Most people don’t realize the beauty and drama of drought-tolerant plants." The myriad of flowering plants cascading down the rock terraces of her front-yard garden puts the truth to her statement.

Debbie is not only an evolving creator, but also a collector of plants. She peruses local nurseries, looking for new plants. As a collector, she finds the personalities of her friends in her collections, each new plant calling to mind a friend. As she tends to her garden she also walks amongst friends.

Although her front yard was a mass of rocks, she brought in more. Of course, finding rocks in Flagstaff is a cinch, but bringing more rocks into an already rocky yard is a stroke of creative genius. It allowed her to develop a sense of sanctuary as she evolved her front yard from a pit into a semi-circle of cascading terraces.

The one dead end in her creative process is her Cro-magnon irrigation system, a Rube Goldberg contrivance of above ground hoses with sprinklers and soakers. Of course, as the plants grew, they blocked the sprinkler’s irrigating circumference and lost water by evaporation. Henceforth, she plans to irrigate with various deep percolation systems depending on plants’ needs.

A graduate of the Master Gardener course, Debbie’s evolving garden isn’t finished by a long-shot. From her backyard deck, she sees a partially developed playground for her three small children and envisions beds for her children’s own flowers and vegetables. Beyond that, using compost and kitchen scraps to enrich the soil, she plans to expand the backyard’s beauty along with venturing into growing vegetables. As a gardener, Debbie’s being is in becoming.

By Dana Prom Smith (2005)
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:09 AM

Herbs II (Winter Indoor Herbs)

Now that the spade bounces off the dirt with a ping, there’s no denying winter has set in. In addition to skiing, it means the time has come to trick Mother Nature a little, not so that she’d notice, but enough to plant an herb garden indoors. Some people wait for spring to plant, but with a little bit of effort an herb garden is possible while ice is on the pond. If a greenhouse isn’t available, horticultural tricks can be played on south-facing window sills. If there aren’t south-facing windows, then west-facing or east-facing will do with help from florescent or grow lights.
Unless there are endless sunlit window sills, the first step for indoor gardening is selecting a few cherished herbs. Some cherished annuals might include sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum), dill (Anethum graveolens), coriander (Coriandrum sativum), and parsley (Petroselinum crispum). Coriander doubles with seeds (coriander) and leaves (cilantro). Fresh cilantro and parsley are relatively cheap in the market so probably aren’t worth the effort except for cilantro or parsley freaks. That leaves the pricey fresh sweet basil and dill herbs. They are best started with seeds.
Some cherished perennial herbs are chives (Allium schoenoprasum) and mint (Mentha piperita). At first they don’t take up much space on the window sill, but mint likes to spread. Happily both can be divided. Chives are propagated either by seeds or cuttings, but mint is best by cuttings. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and sage (Salvia officinalis) are woody, requiring too much space for a sill. Both are propagated by seeds and cuttings. Cuttings are faster.

Herbs like temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees F. A nightly hazard for window sill grown herbs is cold. Next to a window pane temperatures might drop below 50 degrees F. The trick is to protect them or move them away from windows at night. The daytime temperatures are best kept at 65 to 70 degrees F.

Potted herbs require good drainage or else the roots will rot, the plants wilt, and the pots stink. Avoiding this calamity means holes in the bottom of the pot along with a basin to catch the runoff. After watering, wait a few minutes and then pour off any water in the basin to avoid root rot. A good soil for drainage is part potting soil and part perlite. Herbs should be thoroughly watered when the surface of the soil is dry. Light watering often kills plants. The herbs can be fertilized with weak fish emulsion once a month. If a day is warm, letting in a little fresh air now and then helps make the herbs think they’re outside. Winters require patience. Tricked herbs grow slowly.

Most herbs require at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. The window sill has to catch as much of the sun as possible from early morning to late afternoon. Happily, the intense sunlight in Flagstaff is a plus, but again sometimes a florescent or grow light helps. Mint, rosemary, and parsley require less light and can be placed at the edges of the sill.

Pests are best treated with insecticidal soap on both sides of the leaves. The herbs can still be eaten when the insecticidal soap is washed off, but if a systemic poison is used, the result is poisoned and poisoning herbs. Culinary homicide is a big time no-no. If a plague of white flies or the like occurs, dump everything in the garbage pail pronto.

Harriet Young, retired adjunct professor of political science at NAU and chair of the Coconino County Democratic Committee, sticks #2 pencils in her pots, as do the Cajuns, theorizing the cedar in the pencils offends pests, just as it does moths.

Since the air indoors during winter is dry, a squirt bottle of water is helpful in creating humidity by misting around the herbs but not on them. Tricking Mother Nature is always tricky, and sometime fatal, but the hazards of indoor gardening are so trivial that the gustatory delights of fresh herbs make the risks worthwhile. The alternative is hunkering down until spring.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:07 AM

Water Correctly

One of the biggest challenges to Northern Arizona gardeners is determining how to water garden plants correctly. Questions about watering are the most common call that we receive on the Master Gardener hotline. This is also the question that is most difficult to answer. And since improper watering is the source of many of our gardening problems, watering is one task we need to get right.

Because watering depends on several factors, there is no one right answer for everyone. But by understanding some of the conditions that make up your gardening situation, you can better choose a watering regime to encourage healthy plants while at the same time saving water.

First consider how deep you need to water. Watering depth depends on what type of plant you are growing. As a guideline, turf, vegetables, and annual plants need to be watered to a depth of 12 inches, perennials and small shrubs to 18", larger shrubs and small trees to 24" and larger trees between 24 and 36". Water the complete root zone each time you irrigate. Herein lies a major watering dilemma: if you water all plants on your property the same way, some plants may be over-watered while some may be under-watered.

A good way to test how deeply you have watered is to push a piece of steel rod, rebar, or a long screwdriver into the ground soon after you irrigate. Assuming you haven't hit any rocks, the rod should easily slide through wet soil and become difficult to push when reaching dry soil. You can also use a moisture meter or even dig a small hole to check soil moisture.

Soil type will determine how deeply water penetrates the soil. It takes about 1 to 1½ inches of water to saturate each foot of a loamy soil. Since most of us in Northern Arizona garden on something other than loam, we must adjust to our soil type. For clay soils, you will need more water to saturate each foot; for a sandy soil, you will need less.

How long you will need to irrigate to sufficiently water your plants depends on not only the depth of the root zone and the type of soil but also on the watering method used. Using your piece of rebar or moisture meter, determine how long it takes to soak the soil in the root zone or to the desired depth.

Soil type also plays a role in determining how frequently you should water. A sandy soil, which drains readily, will require more frequent irrigation than a clay soil that holds more water and stays moist for a longer period of time. Adding of organic matter will allow water to move more quickly through a clay soil while slowing drainage in a sandy soil.

Aside from soil type, temperature, wind, and time of year will determine how often you water. During the windiest and driest months of May and June, you will need to water more frequently. Once the monsoons return, you can water less regularly because of calmer, more humid conditions. Beware that not all monsoon events provide enough water to deep water your plants. Use your piece of rebar to check.

During the growing season, you should water when the top few inches of the soil are dry. As a guideline, water trees once every three or four weeks, shrubs twice a month, and annuals and vegetable once or twice a week. When gardening on cindery soils, more frequent irrigation may be needed.

Frequency, however, will vary with plant type and maturity. Native and low-water adapted plants can tolerate very dry soil and may require little if any supplemental water once established. Non-native trees and shrubs often require regular soakings. New plantings also need frequent watering, sometimes as often as every other day until they become established. Once established, something that can take from one or three years, reduce the time between watering and allowing plants to experience short periods of drought. This allows plants to adapt to the stress and become more drought tolerant.

Where you apply water is also critical. Most plants do not grow roots like carrots but that is how water is often applied. Root systems can spread one to three times as wide as the plants canopy. Water around the dripline of trees or shrubs rather than just at the base of the plants.

One of the biggest mistakes people make is to water lightly and often. Shallow, frequent watering encourages plant roots to grow at the soil surface making plants more susceptible to drought, summer heat stress, and winter injury. Once plants are stressed, they are more prone to insect and disease damage. Deep, infrequent watering will encourage plants to develop deeper roots and a stronger root system, which will promote healthier plants.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the Arizona Cooperative Extension in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:07 AM

New Plants From Old

My mom is a gardening magician. Time and again I've seen her do the same trick, and it wasn’t until very recently that I learned the secret behind it. She would stick bare twigs into a pot and turn them into beautiful new plants.

She did this trick with all kinds of plants and plant parts – carnation stalks from an expired bouquet, stems of philodendrons that had outgrown their pots, branches from shrubs my dad had pruned back, leaves accidentally broken off her prized African violets, and even a couple of apparently lifeless bare root pear trees that arrived in the mail. Those trees are now at least 60 ft high!

In 1993, a few years after I came to live in Flagstaff, I took the course for volunteers at the Arboretum at Flagstaff. After completing the training, we all signed up for various volunteer jobs around the Arboretum. I decided to work with Bob Wilson, the horticulturist, doing plant propagation in the Hort Center (i.e. the greenhouse.)

After several months of growing plants from seeds, I was taught the arcane art of propagating plants from cuttings. Ah ha! At last I learned the secret of my mom’s “magic trick.” And like most magic tricks, it’s not hard at all once you know how it works.

You need a few basic ingredients to grow plants from cuttings. First, you must start with healthy plants. The stems should be firm, preferably this year’s growth, and free of insects or disease. It’s not a problem if the plant’s flowers have died, but if the stem has started to shrivel, it probably doesn’t have the strength to send out new roots.

Secondly, you need a rooting medium – a mixture that will support the cuttings while they root and hold enough moisture to keep the cuttings alive until the roots form. A 50-50 mixture of vermiculite and perlite works quite well. These ingredients are available at a number of garden centers around Flagstaff, including Warner’s, Home Depot, and WalMart. Vermiculite tends to be very dusty, so be sure to moisten it slightly before you begin mixing it with the perlite. It’s also a good idea to work in an area with good ventilation. Once these two ingredients have been well combined, stir in water until they are evenly moist, but not soggy.

Of course, you will need a container. All sorts of containers work well for this purpose. I like to use those blue foam boxes in which mushrooms are packaged. Some people use the bottoms of milk cartons, or the white plastic boxes restaurants provide for carryout food. Whatever you use, just be sure to clean it thoroughly. At the Arboretum, the containers are rinsed after scrubbing in a dilute Clorox solution. This is very important for preventing a variety of diseases that attack young plants. Don’t skip this step!

One more useful tool for rooting cuttings is rooting hormone. This is a natural plant hormone which helps to stimulate the cuttings to begin making root cells. Again, it is available in most gardening centers, and comes in a range of concentrations. I always go for the least potent, figuring a light touch is best when teaming up with Mother Nature.

Once you have assembled these essentials, you can get to work. Before filling the container, be sure to poke a few drainage holes in the bottom. Nothing rots a plant faster than soggy soil! Now fill the container with the rooting mix right up to the brim. Tamp the mix down lightly. With a clean stick – such as the eraser end of a pencil or a chopstick – make some evenly spaced holes in the mixture. I usually space these about an inch apart. The holes will stay open if you have properly moistened the rooting mix.

Now make the cuttings. With clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears, snip a few healthy stems from your plant. Cut these into roughly 2-inch lengths, taking care to include a leaf node (where a leaf grows out of the stem) in each piece. Take note of the direction of growth as you cut. You’ll want to plant your cuttings right side up!

Dust the base of each cutting with rooting hormone. The simplest way to do this is to poke the cutting into the hormone powder in its jar. Tap lightly to knock off any excess powder, and then carefully place the cutting in one of the prepared holes in the rooting mix. The reason you made the holes in advance was so the hormone would not be rubbed off as you pushed the cutting into the mix. Repeat the process for each cutting. When you have finished with a container, gently firm the rooting mix around the cuttings.

Place the container or containers in a waterproof tray and set them where they can remain undisturbed for a few weeks – such as a windowsill or in a room with a skylight. Keep the rooting mixture moist. This can be done by misting every day, watering from below by pouring a little water into the tray, or by wrapping the entire tray in a clear plastic bag to prevent rapid drying out. Don’t let the containers stand in water, or the cuttings may rot before they grow roots. If you use a plastic bag, open it occasionally to let air circulate around the cuttings. You want to keep them moist, not wet!

After 2-3 weeks, test the cuttings by tugging on them very gently. If they slip out of the pot easily, they do not yet have roots. If they resist, newly grown roots are holding them in place. Patience may be required. As long as the cuttings haven’t obviously died, they may yet grow roots. Don’t give up too soon!

Once the new roots develop, you can pot up the new plants in individual pots and set them out in bright light to grow. Congratulations! Now you, too, are a garden magician!

By Alice Monet (2005)
The author is a volunteer for the Master Gardener Program in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:06 AM

Flagstaff Youth Garden

"Replenishing the land, rather than mining it," is the way Johanna Divine described the underpinning concept of Flagstaff Youth Gardens. A bright, vivacious, engaging young woman, Johanna, its Founder and Director, wants to connect young people to the land, the source of their food and nourishment. "So many young people are disconnected from life and responsibility," she says, "that they don’t know where their food comes from. I want them to feel the soil slip through their fingers, plant the seeds, water the plants, weed the beds, and eat the fruit of their labors."
In partnership with the Museum of Northern Arizona’s Discovery Program and funded locally by grants from family foundations, businesses, and individuals, the Flagstaff Youth Gardens (FYG) offers paid summer employment to high school students that doesn’t involve "flipping burgers" in grease-filled, junk-food mills. "They’re outside in the sun doing physical work, breathing fresh air," is the way Johanna put it. Not only does the FYG offer work, it also encourages young people to take on new responsibilities.
The sixteen high school interns in the program learn to care for something besides themselves. Each one has a specific responsibility for a plant, a row of vegetables, or a given task. In addition, the interns teach and tutor younger children in MNA’s Discovery Program, learning to care not only for plants, but also other human beings. They experience responsibility, one of the chief ingredients of "growing up."
Along with work and responsibility, FYG gives high school interns the experience of actually producing rather than merely consuming. "It’s more than the work-ethic," Johanna said. "It’s work with a purpose, producing food for the community. It’s learning how to interact with the land and re-connect with the rich agricultural traditions of the Colorado Plateau."
The FYG’s first garden in an expected series of gardens is set on an alluvial plain at the base of the San Francisco Peaks, sandwiched between the outbuildings of the MNA and The Peaks retirement community. Located unobtrusively behind a weathered wooden building, the garden is on land originally farmed by Mary Russell Ferrell Colton, co-founder of the Museum of Northern Arizona.
The site also possesses a greenhouse that was one of the first "passive solar" greenhouses in Northern Arizona. The word "passive" is unfortunate because greenhouses are not passive, but active with new life. It’s called "passive solar" because it uses the sun’s radiance to heat the greenhouse in cold weather rather than the passive use of commercial electricity. Along one wall are stacks of five-gallon cans of water, shoulder height, harnessing and storing the sun’s radiance.
The phrase "richer for his presence" in the Prayer Book captures the essence of Flagstaff Youth Gardens, for they want to leave the land and the people richer for their presence. The land is more fertile for having been farmed, and the young people are enriched in spirit for having farmed the land and tutored children.
The richness lies beyond the land and personal growth and extends to cultural depth. Rather than plant commercial varieties of corn, the FYG invited a Hopi farmer to come and plant Hopi blue corn in the garden. Michael Johnson came from the reservation with his bag of corn, shared the seed with interns, and demonstrated the use of a planting stick, following a method of ancient agriculture new to the interns.
Lest someone think Johanna Divine and the FYG are touchy-feely, wooly-minded do-gooders, all someone has to do is meet her and her garden coordinator/trail boss, Kyrie Thompson, who’s out on the land riding herd on gangs of high school students. Perhaps an anecdote best illustrates their toughness. The name "Kyrie” was chosen by her mother when she was listening to a performance of Verdi’s Requiem. Kyrie, still in utero at the time, gave her mother a swift kick in the abdomen when the chorus began the line, kyrie eleison, Lord, have mercy.
In short, Johanna Divine and Kyrie Thompson are considerable human beings. Not only are they charming and attractive, they’re also tough-minded and committed. Not bad examples for high school students, both boys and girls.
More information about FYG can be found at: www.flagfoodlink.org

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Coorperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:05 AM

Vegetable Catalogs

It is snowing again and spring seems such a long way away. But now is the time to start planning the vegetable garden and what better time than when snowbound to browse the stacks of gardening catalogs that have arrived in the mail. Garden catalogs have never been better and many catalogs offer color photos, cultural information, interesting anecdotes, and sometimes even recipes.

The next couple of months are a great time to start seeds. And while many seeds are available in town (I encourage you to buy locally when possible), stores seldom have the space to stock the tremendous selection of vegetable varieties that are available. So if you are looking for something new and unusual, are interested in heirloom seeds, are seeking out varieties especially suited to short growing seasons, or just want to round out your winter reading list, here’s a selection of catalogs recommended by Master Gardeners that goes beyond the usual.

SEEDS OF CHANGE has a laudable motto: 'quality organic seed for the ecological garden.' This company specializes in vegetables and grains that are open-pollinated or heirloom varieties. In 1989, they started a food product line to continue their mission to preserve biodiversity and promote sustainable organic agriculture. Their catalog is a fine read and is recognized for its literary qualities. And since Flagstaff is at approximately the same latitude as the company's test gardens in Sante Fe, NM (both locales experience similar day lengths), many gardeners find their offerings make exceptional choices for our growing conditions. Warner's Nursery carries a limited selection of their seed. Phone: (888) 762-7333; web site: www.seedsofchange.com

PINETREE GARDEN SEEDS of Maine offers a good selection of vegetable and ornamental seeds for northern gardens. Their catalogue is very detailed and has loads of useful information. What I like most about this company is that they offer small seed packets that allow you to experiment with new varieties without committing to a huge package of seeds. They also feature many unusual vegetables and have a special section in the catalog called 'Vegetable favorites from around the world.' Pinetree's trial gardens are in a short-season area and they offer good advice about which varieties will work in colder regions. Phone: (888) 527-3337; web site: www.superseeds.com

TERRITORIAL SEED COMPANY from Oregon is a favorite seed source of a gardening friend of mine who has gardened both here and in the Pacific Northwest. She finds that even though this company is located in a region with a milder climate and longer-day length, their seeds germinate well under our cool soil conditions. The short-seasoned varieties have consistently produced well in Flagstaff. Their catalog is excellent reading and contains more detailed growing information than can be found in many gardening books. And you can order seeds as a sampler, as a packet or in bulk. Phone: (541) 942-9547; web site: www.territorialseed.com

VESEY'S SEEDS, a company from Prince Edward Island, Canada, but with operations in Maine, has been selling seeds for shorter seasons for over 65 years. This year they have a splashy new catalogue (it has grown substantially over the years due to success) that features a huge selection of vegetable seeds, some of which are produced organically or can't be found anywhere else. Though based in Canada, their seeds have been trial tested by gardeners throughout North America. Telephone: (800) 363-7333; web site: www.veseys.com

JOHNNY'S SELECTED SEEDS was a mainstay of my Pennsylvania gardening experience and I continue to experiment with their short-season varieties. Johnny's was one of the first seed companies to offer organically grown seed. Located in Maine, their seed catalog features a wide variety of vegetable, flower, and medicinal and culinary herb seeds, cover crop and farm seed, and a great line of gardening tools and accessories. This company has consistently received high marks from gardeners throughout the United States. Phone: (207) 437-4301; web site: www.johnnyseeds.com

THE COOK'S GARDEN, located in Pennsylvania, is 'for cooks who love to garden and gardeners who love to cook.' They feature a wonderful array of vegetables and herbs, and edible and cutting flowers, but their specialty is salad greens including over 50 lettuces and several custom lettuce mixes. The seed packets are a little pricey, but the catalog has an added feature, recipes. Phone: (800) 457-9703; web site: www.cooksgarden.com

NICHOLS GARDEN NURSERY is a family owned business that specializes in herbs, greens, and rare seeds, and has supplied seeds and plants by mail for over 50 years. Nichols actively supports Plant A Row for The Hungry, a national program that encourages gardeners to donate their surplus garden produce to local food banks, soup kitchens and service organizations to help feed America’s hungry. They are favored for their extensive selection of herbs and good prices. Phone: (800) 422-3985; web site: www.nicholsgardennursery.com

I am always interesting in hearing about your gardening experiences and learning which vegetable varieties do best in your high elevation garden. You can reach me at 774-1868 ext. 17 or by e-mail at hbraun@ag.arizona.edu.

By Hattie Braun
The Author is the Master Gardener Program coordinator for the University of Arizona Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:04 AM

Herbs

The spice of life is closer than most of us think, as close as window sills, backyards, patios, decks, balconies, or garages. It can be in pots, planters, window boxes, tubs, plots, under grow lights, and hydroponically in water. It’s in our herb gardens.

"Variety’s the very spice of life\That gives it all its flavor" wrote William Cowper, an 18th century English poet, sometime lunatic, marginal theologian, and avid gardener. A variety of herbs spice our food from eggs to babybacks. Of course, fresh herbs are spicier than dried, commercially-packaged herbs, just as living human beings are more piquant than mummies and a lot less expensive. One of the delights of an herb garden is picking the herbs, rubbing them between our thumbs and forefingers, and savoring the aroma.

While most people don’t grow their own vegetables, they can easily grow their own herbs. As for growing herbs, there are three kinds, perennials, biennials, and annuals. As with children they are better off in separate beds in different bedrooms. Annuals mature in one season and then die. Their beds should be replenished each year with compost and other organic material to lighten the soil. Fertilizer should be used sparingly. Highly fertile soil produces excessive foliage with poor flavor. Biennials live for two seasons, coming of age the second year. Their beds can be renewed every two years. Perennials return every year. Their beds cannot so easily be renewed. The whole bed has to be dismantled, digging up everything and replenishing the soil, and then replanted. Renewing a perennial bed is arduous and should only be undertaken every few years.

Annuals and biennials tend to be more shallowly rooted than perennials. The perennials’ roots explore the earth more deeply in search of moisture and nutrients than annuals. Annuals like moist, not wet, soil and perennials good drainage which means that the best beds, as all beds, are raised off the garden’s floor.

Most herbs come from softer climes, such as the Mediterranean Basin, which means that herbs on the Colorado Plateau like warm beds, such as beds of rocks which hold the heat during cool nights. Happily, on the Colorado Plateau there are plenty of hot rocks.
Not only are there perennials, biennials, and annuals, there are many classes of herbs, culinary, aromatic, ornamental, and medicinal. Our first concern is oft-used culinary herbs, such as the popular biennial parsley (Petroselinium crispum) and the perennial sage (Salvia officinalis). Other commonly used culinary herbs are the perennial chives (Allium schoenoprasum), thyme (Thymus vulgaris), tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus), oregano (Origanum vulgare), lovage (Levisticum officinale), peppermint (Mentha x piperata), and rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis).

Widely-used annual culinary herbs are sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum), dill (Anethum graveolens), sweet marjoram (Marorana hortensis), cilantro/coriander (Coriandrum sativum), cilantro the leaves and coriander the seeds, fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), and summer savory (Satureja hortensis).

Rosemary, a tender perennial, does not winter well on the Colorado Plateau and is best potted and taken in the house when cold weather looms. Also, peppermint is a control-freak with no sense of boundaries and is best restricted in a pot. If not, for all of its aromatic and gustatory charms, it will take over and become a noxious weed.

Esthetically, herb gardens are best encased in rock gardens. Better yet, herb gardens as rock gardens are best set on slopes of land. Slopes allow for good drainage with different degrees of moisture from top to bottom. The results are gardens delighting the eye as well as the nose and palate.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:03 AM

Trees and Snow

The two recent snowstorms that hit Northern Arizona wrecked havoc on many of our deciduous trees. Weighed down with heavy, wet snow, treetops were torn off, branches ripped away from the trunk, and limbs snapped in half. What remained of these storm-damaged trees was a ragged mess. These storms were especially damaging to deciduous trees because those with leaves still attached caught the heavy snow.

What caused such severe limb and branch breakage? Why did some trees, many of which were 10 or 20 years old or more, succumb to the hazards of these storms, yet other trees remained intact? Survey which trees suffered the most and you'll find that only a few species had extensive damage.

The hardest hit were deciduous non-native trees such as 'Lombardy' poplar and Siberian elm; many suffered beyond repair. Look closely at these trees and you'll notice that the main branches emanate from the trunk at a narrow angle. This narrow crotch angle makes for weak limbs and increases the likelihood that these branches will break from heavy snows, ice or wind. As non-natives, these trees are poorly adapted to the heavy snows of Northern Arizona.

I also observed broken branches on apples, crabapples, purple-leaf plums, and flowering almonds. Considerable damage occurred in apple trees that still bore a bumper crop of fruit. However, these trees have sturdy limbs with strong attachments to the main trunk. Branches may have broken but resulting injuries to the main trunk were minimal. When a branch with a wide-angled, strong attachment to the tree snaps off, the wound is often fairly clean and little bark is removed from the trunk.

A native, deciduous tree that came through the storm with little damage is Gamble oak. We are fortunate to have a magnificent clump of Gambel oaks in our backyard. It troubled me to see branches bowed almost to the ground under the weight of heavy snow. But the elastic branches, adapted to snowy climates, quickly rebounded to normal once the snow melted.

In general, conifers experienced little damage. As I walked my neighborhood the day after the storm, I noticed Colorado blue spruce misshapen and contorted from heavy snow. However, the branches bounced back to their original positions the following day and the trees looked as bright and fresh as ever. Ditto for Douglas-fir. On our long-needled ponderosa pines, the snow pack just slid off, providing a cold surprise to anyone underneath. Many conifers bear the extra weight of heavy snow without breaking and effectively shed snow due to their conical shape.

If you have snow-damaged trees on you property, what should you do? Prune broken branches as soon as the weather and circumstances allow. Prune damaged branches back to another branch or the main trunk if necessary. On large branches, this cut should be made to just outside the branch collar. Do not make cuts flush to the trunk and do not leave long branch stubs. When damage is extensive, or large limbs, main branches or power lines are involved, contact a certified arborist. A trained arborist can correctly evaluate damage, remove dangerous trees and branches, and correctly prune trees to help them recover.

Careful tree selection and proper pruning can greatly reduce snow damage. Because a tree is a valuable asset to your property, it is important to properly maintain and select only high quality trees.

What should you look for when selecting a tree for your yard? A tree with a straight trunk and evenly spaced branches is stronger and more resistant to breakage. Look for trees with wide crotch angles between primary branches and the main trunk. Avoid buying trees that have several branches originating from the same point on the trunk, as these junctions are weak and prone to breakage.

Growth rate is another important factor when choosing a tree. Trees with medium to slow growth rates, such as oaks, hawthorns, and crabapples, typically have stronger wood. Faster growing Siberian elms, willows, box elders, silver maples and some varieties of cottonwoods have weak, brittle wood that is prone to limb breakage under heavy snow.

Another reason for limb weakness in a tree may be due to past pruning practices. Improper pruning practices, such as topping or stub cutting, can create structural weakness in the wood. These branches can easily break off the tree as they grow larger and heavier, especially when stressed by lots of snow.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:02 AM

Hardening Off Plants

Here’s the problem: over the past few weeks, you’ve started a promising crop of baby plants from seed, and they are growing big and healthy. Or perhaps a friend with greenish thumbs has offered you some plants grown at home. In either case, you are confronted with the daunting task of introducing these pampered houseplants to the harsh realities of a Flagstaff garden in spring. How can they possibly survive?

The answer is “hardening off.” Plants grown indoors have generally had a pretty easy time of it. They have not had to contend with sunburn or frostbite, wind, rain, snow, flood, or drought. So, as you might expect, they are pretty soft and ill prepared to withstand any of these conditions. But if you chose your plant varieties wisely, which is to say that you selected those that are well-suited to our climate, you can toughen them up before planting them in the garden, and they will be able to handle most of what Mother Nature dishes out.

Hardening off is the gradual introduction of indoor plants to the outdoor environment. It typically takes a week to 10 days to complete the process. The time to start, then, is when it is very nearly warm enough outdoors for the plants you want to set out. Some plants, such as those in the cabbage family, are extremely cold hardy, and even a light frost won’t harm them. These can be set out very early. Warm season plants, such as tomatoes or basil, can’t handle frost at all, and will suffer at temperatures below about 40 degrees. These warm-season plants can be set out early if given plenty of protection, but they will do best when the soil has warmed up and night time temperatures stay reliably above freezing.

Place the plants you want to harden off in a tray or shallow box and take them outdoors on a warm, pleasant day. I usually start by placing the tray in a partially shady location close to the house, out of the wind, and certainly out of reach of pets, kids, and foot traffic. On the first day, leave the plants out for just 2-3 hours, and them bring them back indoors.

The next day, you can leave them out a little longer, still not in full sun. Take care that the plants don’t wilt, which can happen very quickly if they are exposed to any wind or the day is very warm.

If you are lucky enough to have a cold frame, this is an ideal place to set the plants out for hardening off. Keep the lid open to allow good air circulation, and don’t allow the plants to get overheated inside the frame. After the first couple of days, you can leave the plants out in the cold frame overnight, with the lid closed at night, but be sure to open it again the next morning or your young crop will be cooked!

Gradually reduce the amount of water you give the plants, so they can adapt to drier conditions. After a few days, they’ll be tough enough to remain outdoors all day long, and can withstand longer exposure to full sunlight. But be sure to keep an eye on the weather forecasts and, even more so, on your own sense of how conditions are changing in your garden. If the temperature is dropping rapidly in the evening, or the wind is rising, cover your young plants or bring them in for the night.

After a week or so, most plants given this treatment will start to look sturdier. The leaves get a little tougher, the stem grow a little thicker, and the plants no longer look like the slightest breeze will knock them flat. Some plants will respond happily to the stimulation of being outdoors and start growing rapidly. When you see some of these signs, you’ve done the job right, and your plants are ready for transplanting.

Even though the plants have been properly hardened off, it may still be a bit of a shock to be lifted from their pots and plunked into the garden. I try to soften the blow as much as possible. First, try to find a mild day for transplanting. Cloudy days are great, but not essential. Make sure the soil in the garden is moist (not soggy), and spread the plant roots out as you plant to enable them to start soaking up moisture and nutrients right away. Firm the soil gently around each plant as you set it in place, so it is in good contact with the soil and well supported. It might help to water the new plants with a very dilute solution of general purpose fertilizer, to stimulate root growth and help them withstand transplant shock.

Keep a close eye on the transplants for the first few weeks, as they settle into their new home. Try to keep the soil evenly moist, especially for the first couple of weeks while the plants are growing new roots. You can stretch the time between waterings but soak the garden more deeply to encourage the roots to grow deep and long. Be prepared to cover the plants at night if temperatures tumble, as can happen almost any time in Flagstaff!

Now, pat yourself on the back and enjoy your wonderful garden. You’ve done everything necessary to give your plants a healthy start.

By Alice Monet
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:00 AM

Containerized Herbs in the House

My wife thinks I’m crazy. She may be right. Sometimes she is although not as often as she thinks. The reason for her diagnosis (obsessive-compulsive) is that I dug up my four sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum) plants, potted them, and took them in the house. Gretchen doesn’t understand that craziness is often a sign of genius. As a matter of fact, she elicits sympathy from her friends while pinching off sweet basil leaves.

One of the sweet basils went in the garage on a wall next to the den under a grow light, another next to a south-facing, sliding glass door in the dining room, and the other two on the south-east-facing window sill of my study. All of them are flourishing.

Next, I potted a dill (Anethum graveolens) about five feet tall. Gretchen thought I had really lost it with the dill. First, I put it in the garage under the grow light. Then I moved it into my study where my wife has no decorating and design authority which has not prevented her from voicing her opinions or making occasional clean-sweep sorties. However, seeing its airy elegance and grace, she wanted me to put it in the dining room next to the sweet basil. She even harvested some of the dill seeds for the tomato juice she was making from our excess tomatoes. The sweet basil and dill are additions of beauty, aroma, and vitality to a winter’s room, especially set against brown fields autumned of green.

Next, I potted my parsley (Petroselinum crispum) and set it on my window sill. However, since it is a biennial in its second year, I don’t hold out much hope for its future. Then I took an already potted mint (Mentha piperita) in the house. However, it had already suffered a couple of nights outside in the cold under 32 degrees. I am now nursing it back to flourishing health. Next, I potted the chives (Allium schoenoprasum) where it sits next to my printer. Finally, I potted the cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) and brought it into my study. It’s doing well. I had to stop my transplanting containerized project because I ran out of permitted window sills.
What did I inadvertently do right? We have a humidifier in the house which sits in the dining room apparently supplying enough humidity for plants, humans, our three-legged dog Roxie, and various spiders. Also, I carelessly left an open bucket of water which humidified the garage. The plants get enough, humidity, and sunlight (real and fake). The ones in the dining room are doing best.

They were doing so well that I suggested to Gretchen bringing the three containerized tomato plants from the garage into the dining room. She replied, "I’m putting my foot down on that one. No!" I didn’t see her foot hit the floor, but I did see a throbbing jugular and flared nostrils, hear a high-pitched voice, and green eyes turning cougarish. I dreamt that night of turning the dining room into a greenhouse and the garage into a dining room. I kept my dreams to myself aware that genius is often unrecognized.

By Dana Prom Smith (2005)
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension. For more information about the Master Gardener program, call 774-1868 ext. 17.

Posted by maxmaddy at 6:00 AM

Tree Walks at NAU

Walkers and hikers in Flagstaff seem to take their cue from Teddy Roosevelt, the late "Bull Moose" President, who preached "the doctrine of the strenuous life." They like to go uphill. For the many people in Flagstaff of a certain age who’ve passed the strenuous life, or who, though still strenuous, want to take a breather from their strenuousity, or who sadly don’t want to be strenuous at all, the Arboretum at NAU with its three Tree Walks is just their ticket. These walks offer casual strolls through a varied woodland or, if a person is still of a mind, a brisk stride down Knoles Drive. With an elevation of no more than ten feet, the climbs are a cinch. The trees offer dappled shade on a warm afternoon.

Scattered here and there benches invite passersby to "come and set a spell’, enjoy breathing the clear mountain air, and munch on a sandwich. In addition to the trees, bushes, and flowers, NAU’s earliest buildings are a pleasure to look at, built, as they were, of native stone. Distinctively nineteenth century and well-kept, they give the feel of a venerable college. The bronze bust of a Navajo stares down on visitors with a quiet, dignified resignation, reminding everyone who came first. The work of R. C. Gorman, the famous Navajo artist and NAU alumnus, it was crafted in honor of his father and dedicated to the 32 original Navajo Code Talkers of World War II fame. In short, there’s history along with nature.

The first walk, the Wommack Tree Walk, is named after Dr. Donald Wommack, a former Forestry Professor at NAU. Metered parking is available a few steps away from the beginning of the walk on Dupont Avenue just across from North Union or on McMullen Circle in front of Old Main. A word of warning: Do not park in non-metered parking slots without a university parking permit. NAU with its visitor-unfriendly policy will assess a $60 fine for unauthorized parking.
The Wommack Tree Walk begins with the Riles Rose at the base of the R.C. Gorman bronze. The rose was named after Wilson Riles, a distinguished alumnus of NAU and the first African-American elected to high office in California. A building further on down Knoles Drive is also named for him. The trees are varied from a peach, a crab apple, and an eastern hemlock, to a Scots pine and a giant sequoia. Sad it is to say, the Rocky Mountain bristle cone pine, a species of grand antiquity whose ancestry dates back to near 8000 B.C. at the end of the Ice Age, has fallen prey to that modern pest, the nefarious weed whacker. All that’s left is a lonely solitary stump in front of the Frier Hall. ‘Tis a pity, because a collar at the base of the tree, much like the leathernecks worn by Continental Marines at the beginning of the Republic, would have saved the tree.

The second walk, the Littleman Tree Walk, begins behind North Union, again with easy access to metered parking in front of Old Main on McMullen Circle. Only a half a mile in length, it’s a piece of cake. Named after Lemuel Littleman, a long-time grounds keeper at NAU, many of the specimens on this walk were planted by him. Sadly, another death occurred on this walk; the lovely eastern redbud behind North Union succumbed to the rigors of our winter past. Native to the softer climes of Southern and Middle Atlantic States, it was an anomaly in the severe winters of the north country. It survived for years protected in an alcove behind Morton Hall but finally fell prey to its inhospitable environment. However, in spite of some damage, everything else appears hale and hearty, especially the McCormick Rose, a legacy of Arizona’s first First Lady, Margaret McCormick. This walk is particularly shaded with great towering maples, spruce, cottonwoods, poplars, elms, apples, and pears, forming an arboreal canopy, all set against the backdrop of the stately magnificence of Old Main. At the end of the Littleman Walk is a life zones garden which contains an Apache pine and a bristlecone pine along with quaking aspen and Rocky Mountain juniper.

The final walk is the School of Forestry Walk on the south side of the campus off Pine Knoll Drive. Set on the east side of the Southwest Forest Science Complex, it gives a glimpse of the complex synergy in the forests surrounding Flagstaff. With the exception of the black locust from the eastern U.S. and the amur maple from Asia, both of which are adaptable to the southwest, all the trees are southwestern. The walk, which is short, focuses on the interdependence of the quaking aspen, the pinyon pine, the Gambel oak, and the ponderosa pine in their native habitat. With no metered parking available permission to park can to be obtained from the office of the NAU School of Forestry on the first floor.

More information can be obtained at www.nau.edu/arboretum or from the Director of the NAU Arboretum, Brad Blake, or its Curator, Philip Patterson, at the NAU Research Greenhouse Complex at (928) 523-9100.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:58 AM

Forgotten Spring Flowering Bulbs

Yesterday I discovered dozens of spring-flowering bulbs forgotten in a corner of the garage. They were purchased when the weather was warmer and gardening ideas were grand. Unfortunately, the ground is now frozen and unless planted soon these bulbs will not last until spring. Container gardening will have to do for this season.

My overlooked bulbs include daffodils, tulips, crocuses, Dutch irises, and hyacinths. All will flower nicely in pots during their first season. Afterward flowering, I plan to plant them out in the garden so I can enjoy their flowers for years to come.

Spring-flowering bulbs should be planted in the fall. They require many weeks of cool temperatures to spark the biochemical process that stimulates flowing. And it's important to get them into the ground before the ground freezes. They need time to develop strong roots that will nourish the plant in the spring. Most spring-flowering bulbs require 12-15 weeks of cold. Paperwhite narcissus bulbs are the exception and require no cold period.

Almost any container can be used to plant your bulbs, the only requirement being adequate drainage. Choose containers with holes in the base. Selecting the right potting mix will also help with drainage. A good bulb mixture contains one part good garden soil, one part sand and one part organic matter such as compost, peat moss or ground-up bark. Commercial potting mixes will also work if you add one-third sand by bulk to increase drainage, otherwise the bulbs may rot.

When planting bulbs in pots, the rules for spacing do not apply; you can plant the bulbs close together leaving just a finger’s width between each bulb. Ideally, you should plant the bulbs at the same depth that you plant outdoors but this isn’t always possible when using containers. Try to plant the bulbs at least an inch deep. Exceptions include tulips and paperwhites which can be planted with their tips showing. After planting, water well.

For a succession of flowers, you can plant several types of bulbs in the same pot. Place a layer of potting mixture in the bottom of your container and set the biggest bulbs into the mix. Daffodils work great for the first layer. Then add an inch or two of soil and layer in smaller bulbs such as tulips. Add more soil, some crocuses and top off with another layer of soil.

After your bulbs are planted and watered, you must supply a cold treatment. Place the pots in an unheated room, garage or basement. Continue to water when the pots are dry. After 10-12 weeks, check the pots for signs of growth. You may see shoots beginning to emerge or roots growing out of the drainage holes. If you placed you pots in a particularly cool location, it may take even longer before you see any growth.

Once growth begins, you can coax the bulbs into bloom by bringing the pots indoors. Exposing the pots to bright light will keep the growing shoots from getting leggy. Or, weather-permitting, you can place the pots outdoors in a protected but sunny location. After bloom, continue watering until the foliage turns yellow. You can then remove the bulbs from their pots and plant them out in the garden.

Other than flowering onions and anemones, few spring-flowering bulbs will survive if planted in the spring so saving them is not an option. Likely, you will find them dried and shriveled and they will die once planted. So plant your forgotten bulbs now, otherwise you will be making some very expensive compost.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for Coconino Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:58 AM

Gardening Resolutions

Many of you are now contemplating your list of New Year’s resolutions. Changes in your gardening habits may be on the list. Seeking inspiration and advice, I polled Coconino County Master Gardeners to learn about their gardening resolutions for the New Year. I hope the following results help you have a happy and healthy garden in 2005. You might even want to add a few of them to your list of resolutions.

Ruth resolves to not get so annoyed if she hits a limestone shelf when planting a bulb 2 inches deep. There are always other spots or other ways to plant bulbs such as building raised beds or using containers.

Alice has an on-going resolution: to plant all new plants within 24 hours of bringing them home. She will not leave her plants sitting in their pots all summer (or as in my case - years!)

Andrea's resolution is to get her cool season crops like broccoli, kale, spinach, and lettuce planted earlier in the spring. These crops really benefit from our cool spring temperatures. Fall planting cold weather crops also works!

Carolyn will try harder not to buy plants just for looks without first determining if she has a good spot in the yard for them.

Mark vows to combat our short gardening season by prepping earlier, planting early-bearing varieties, getting them into the ground as soon as possible, and making better use of season extenders. He's even considering laying down black plastic, as it can warm the soil by about 8 degrees.

Wendie will remember to wear her knee pads (given to her for Christmas years ago by her husband but not worn until recently) as well as to use a small stool when she gardens to preserve her hips, back, and neck. Carolyn vows to wear a hat and gloves, and to use sunscreen. Gardening should be good for you and not a hazard to your body.

Molly resolves to record the name and location of each new plant in a journal in order to track its success or failure. She is also going to enjoy the garden more as a whole entity rather than fret about the small imperfections.

For continued gardening success, several Master Gardeners will repeat the gardening mantra "right plant, right place" while selecting for new plants.

Jean's motto this year will be "One Day at a Time." While it's fun to dream about a beautiful landscape, she recognizes that we can build (and weed and irrigate) it only one day at a time.

Sue wants to enjoy the growing and blooming plants in her flower beds and vegetable garden more and to stop agonizing over every bug and weed. Blemished garden produce is tasty and safe so tolerate minor surface imperfections in your vegetables.

Cynthia's resolution this year is to make sure that her soil is amended before planting so that her plants have half a chance of growing! David takes this resolution a step further and plans to cover his garden with a 1-2 inch layer of manure. He'll make sure the manure is really old; it's better for the plants.

Padraig plans to spend thirty minutes once or twice a week just sitting and observing a specific place in the garden and learning more about that place and its relationship to the whole.

Rebecca has several garden resolutions: to keep ahead of the weeds in the garden, to plant more native plants, to grow more types of penstemon, to grow enough penstemon to contribute to the Penstemon Society seed exchange, and to put in more volunteer time to the Arboretum at Flagstaff.

Nancy's resolution is to work with the pocket gophers rather than against them. After all, they were here first. She'll attempt more container gardening and use chicken wire around root balls. And, she will look for other ideas that don't involve poison or kill traps!

Many Master Gardeners vowed to either start a compost pile or take better care of the one they already have. Compost is one of the best things you can add for your garden.

Karen has one more resolution we all should take to heart: she will visit more gardens this year, including her own.

Above all, resolve to enjoy your garden. Gardening should not be a chore. Vow to sit back, relax, and take in the sights and scents of your garden in 2005. Have a happy, safe, and productive New Year.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener program coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:57 AM

Trees and Storm Damage

There we were, at noon, at 3:00, at 6:00 and then continuing on through the night, using brooms, fruit pickers, and whatever else we could find, to strategically whack off the mountains of snow piling up on our trees. Okay, so we didn't try to save our Siberian elms (as we figured they were more of a danger and a nuisance than anything else) but we did work hard to save everything else from the very welcome, yet slightly exasperating rain and snow so generously provided by Mother Nature.

Doubtless you have noticed all of the downed limbs, branches and even entire trees that are strewn chaotically about town after this latest storm. If you look closely, you will see that the most severe damage occurred to trees that fall into two major categories: those that have been pruned incorrectly (such as topping) and trees that are known to be inherently brittle, weak or structurally prone to snow damage (such as Siberian elm, Lombardy poplar, and silver maple.)

Topping involves cutting off main branches and lateral limbs at the trunk or main branch junction causing the tree to grow multiple sprouts from each place pruned. According to Jim Sobek, owner of Clearwater Landscapes, "topping makes a tree an invalid" as the resulting sprouts eventually become limbs that are prone to collapsing under the weight of even a small amount of snow. Instead of topping the tree, it is better to make thinning cuts inside the crown of the tree. As Flagstaff's first certified arborist, Sobek is well aware of the problems with poor pruning. He says, "trees that receive no care are usually better off than trees that receive bad care!" Correct, periodic pruning will create a tree that is structurally able to weather the elements as well as being aesthetically pleasing.

For damaged trees, Misti Warner, store manager at Warner's Nursery and Landscaping Co., recommends pruning no more than one-third the tree during any given year. People often hope to 'balance' the damage on one side by removing many branches on the opposite side for aesthetic appeal. Warner cautions against this practice. Instead, she urges homeowners to mark the branches to be removed and prune over several years time. This will ensure the health of the tree. Dangling branches that may pose a hazard, however, should be removed as soon as possible.

Topping a tree to control its size often creates a structurally weak tree that will readily succumb to heavy snow loads. If smaller trees are desired, Warner recommends that people plant dwarf varieties that are inherently shorter.

Tom DeGomez, University of Arizona Forest Health Specialist, advises that broken branches be pruned to the branch collar (the bulge that forms at the base of the branch.) Cuts that leave the branch collar intact heal more quickly. Tears caused by branches or tops being ripped from the tree should be trimmed to a clean edge with a sharp knife or pruning saw. DeGomez also advises using spreaders to help create wider crotch angles and develop a proper scaffolding system in the tree's architecture. As for exceedingly large wounds, he opines, "it may be necessary to remove the tree."

During this recent storm, even correctly pruned trees suffered damage. For severely damaged trees, your best recourse is to call a certified arborist to evaluate the situation. When the tree is damaged enough to become a hazard, pruning should be done as quickly as possible, otherwise pruning and/or repair can be delayed until spring.

To avoid damage in the future, select a tree that is recommended for this elevation and climate. Shaun Symond, general manager of Warner's Nursery, suggests 'Cleveland Select' flowering pear and crabapple. Both are hardy and well adapted to this environment. Other trees recommended by Symond include 'Autumn Blaze' maple, narrowleaf cottonwood and 'Canada Red' chokecherry. All these trees have good crotch angles that can better handle heavy snow loads. However, Symond cautioned that because we have so many microclimates in Northern Arizona, it is best to consult a reputable local nursery professional before selecting a tree species.

When replacing damaged trees, DeGomez recommends honey locust and black locust (they don't develop thick canopies and are therefore less susceptible to snow damage), European mountain ash and American green ash (both have good crotch angles), and Northern red oak. A good native choice is Gambel oak, a tree that is very sturdy but slow growing.

Sobek advocates the old adage 'right tree, right place.' Seek counsel or education when selecting a tree. To get a head start on your research, check out the book 'Beyond the Ponderosa: Successful Landscape Trees for Higher Elevations in the Southwest' by Tom DeGomez and John Bailey. This compact book has descriptions of over 40 trees that do well in high elevation gardens. Information on possible tree hazards (such as limb breakage during heavy snow) is also included so you will have advance notice of problems that may occur.

Terra Crampton is a University of Arizona Master Gardener and Master Naturalist, and a Xeriscape educator.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:56 AM

Compost Doesn't Just Happen

You’ve probably seen that bumper sticker that says “Compost Happens.” That one always bothered me. It implies that compost is practically inevitable. No great knowledge, skills, or efforts are required. In the natural course of events, compost just happens. Well, compost just wasn’t happening in my compost bin, so I must be doing something incredibly dumb to prevent it. What I had failed to notice was that compost was happening, everywhere except in that little bin. I wasn’t a bad gardener – just an unobservant one.

We got one of those compost bins the city offers for sale each year, made of recycled plastic, and set it out in our backyard. I eagerly filled it to the brim with yard waste such as clippings, pine needles and cones, twigs, and dead leaves, and kitchen wastes. I put the top on and let it sit for a couple of months, confident that when I eventually went back to check, I would find all this stuff nicely decomposed into lovely rich and fragrant compost. In fact, when I lifted the lid a few months later, I found the yard debris and kitchen scraps essentially unchanged. How could this be? I asked friends at work. They nodded sagely and explained that it’s just too dry and cold in Flagstaff for compost to happen.

When spring came around and I was ready to prepare the soil for planting in my vegetable garden, I just dumped the mummified contents of my compost bin into the garden bed and covered it all with soil and manure. I figured it wouldn’t hurt, and at least it would help keep the soil from getting too compacted. I planted my vegetable seedlings as usual, among the melon rinds and corn cobs, sticks and pine cones. Guess what! That year, for the first time, my vegetable patch produced a bumper crop. I was busy tending the garden and harvesting produce until the first snowfall. It wasn’t until the following spring that I turned over the soil and added some more manure. Much to my surprise, I found nothing but soil. All the rinds, cobs, sticks, and cones had completely disappeared.

What I had discovered, entirely by accident, was a process called “sheet composting.” A variation of this technique is known as “lasagna gardening” – a method of soil improvement that is so interesting and effective, it deserves an article all its own. But I remained puzzled. Why had all that stuff decomposed in the garden, but not in my bin? With dogged persistence, I decided to try again.

I tried cutting up the material I put in the bin to increase the surface area. I added water to the mixture and tried to keep it from drying out. I scrounged the neighborhood for bags of leaves. I hauled stable waste from the homes of friends who kept horses. I hoarded every possible scrap of vegetable waste from the kitchen and hauled it out to the bin all winter. But when spring came and I was ready to use my wonderful compost, I found my bin filled with a great heap of freeze-dried junk. Once again, I dumped it all in the vegetable patch and turned it under. Once again, I had a prolific garden. But I was really stumped. WHY didn’t compost happen in that blasted bin?

When we moved a few years ago to our present house, I resolved to solve this mystery once and for all. Our new yard is graced by a large cottonwood tree and a bunch of Gambel oaks, which provided a bounty of dead leaves every fall for the bin. I planted a small lawn as well, thinking I could use the grass clippings. I placed the compost bin in the shade of an oak, where the ground was already covered by a layer of leaf mold. I kept the bin full and turned the contents occasionally. Actually, I had so many leaves, they wouldn’t all fit in my bin, so I piled the rest on the ground nearby, planning to add them to the bin as needed. Well, they were never needed because – stop me if you’ve heard this before – the stuff in the bin didn’t decompose. But the leaf pile disappeared anyway because the leaves on the bottom had turned into beautiful, rich, dark leaf mold. Go figure!

Grimly determined to make compost happen, I enrolled in the Master Gardening course. There I learned that composting is a chemical reaction brought about by the right mixture of materials. The mix should be about thirty parts carbon to one part nitrogen. Materials that are high in carbon are the so-called “brown” ingredients: pine needles, straw, sawdust, and corn cobs. Farm manures and kitchen scraps tend to be high in nitrogen. These are the “green” ingredients. If the compost pile has too much of the brown materials, it won’t heat up and start the composting process. Too much green stuff will produce a lot of ammonia and the heap will smell awful. There is a “critical mass” required to sustain the composting reaction – a least one cubic yard of material. This is the volume of a typical compost bin, which means you have to keep it full to have enough material to keep the process going. Finally, air and moisture are essential, so you’ll need to turn the contents and keep it from drying out.

Meanwhile, my daughter got a summer job mowing a neighbor’s lawn. Every couple of weeks, she hauled home a bag of grass clippings, which we just left along one side of the house. At the end of the summer, we decided to clean up the mess and I went to get the bags. But instead of sacks full of grass clippings, all I found were small heaps of brown compost. What do you know? Compost happened!

By Alice Monet (2005)
The author is a volunteer trained through the University of Arizona’s Master Gardener Program in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:56 AM

Fire Ecology

During the summer in Arizona, wildfires are reported on all the news programs: where they occur, how they started, how big they are growing, and how many structures are being threatened. The other part of this story, however, is what the fire is actually doing to the environment, i.e. how the fire is affecting the ecosystem. No other ecosystem in Arizona has been more studied with respect to the role of fire than ponderosa pine forests. These forests have been well-studied not only because the trees in ponderosa pine forests give good evidence of past fires, but also because ponderosa pine trees are the most commercially valuable and productive timber tree in the inland west and southwest. Furthermore, these forests are treasured for scenic and recreational aspects. Perhaps most importantly, these forests provide ecological services such as clean air, clean water, and habitat for biological diversity.

Then…
Historically, virtually all ponderosa pine forests were more open than they are now. These forests had fewer trees per acre, a higher proportion of grasses on the ground, and fewer understory trees than they do today. The grassy fuels carried frequent, low to moderate intensity fires that played a vital role in maintaining ponderosa pine forests that were open and park-like, with mostly large trees. Wildfires helped to:
• Maintain the diversity of plants and animals
• Expose a mineral soil seedbed required for germination and seedling establishment of ponderosa pine trees
• Reduce plants from the understory that interfere with ponderosa pine tree growth and health
• Raise crown levels by removing low branches
• Remove diseased and insect-infested trees
• Recycle nutrients in the soil

Now…
The current fire regime in ponderosa pine forests and associated woodlands of the southwest is drastically different than the pre-settlement regime, i.e., prior to extensive European-American settlement. Several factors contribute to this change, including local weather conditions and human activities on the landscape. Perhaps the most important influence driving fire regime change is fire exclusion. Humans have suppressed fires since the early 1900s causing forests to become more dense and to have a higher proportion of less fire adapted trees. In addition, local weather conditions affect fire behavior. Weather patterns like El Nino and La Nina are closely tied to fire cycles. El Nino events produce wetter springs and summers, promoting growth of plants but also reducing the flammability of fuel due to increased moisture. La Nina events produce much drier springs and summers, increasing the potential for fire occurrence. The current drying trend in the southwest is increasing the frequency of large, severe wildfires by increasing the proportion of dead and dry fuel. Wildfire suppression has allowed forests to become overgrown while lower than average precipitation makes dense forests more flammable. The result is regularly occurring fires that reach into the canopy (crown fires) that are almost impossible to control and which kill a great percentage of the forest trees, regardless of size.

Fire lover…
No other conifer in Arizona is better adapted to survive surface fires. Ponderosa pine forests are very resistant to fire, which means that they have the ability to survive the passage of a fire.

Ponderosa pine trees have many characteristics that make this possible because these populations evolved with frequent fire. The adaptations that make this possible include:

• Open crowns: spreading branches at the top of tree, not tight or dense
• Self-pruning branches: as the tree grows, the lower branches drop off preventing a surface fire from moving up into the crown
• Thick, exfoliating bark: layers of bark can take in heat and then drop off to prevent the bark from combusting
• Thick bud scales: bud scales can withstand high temperatures
• Tight needle bunches: needle bunches enclose and protect meristems, then open into a loose arrangement that does not favor combustion or propagation of flames
• High foliar moisture: needles have high moisture levels

Wildfires play a huge, largely beneficial role in the growth of ponderosa pine forests. Although reports of wildfires mostly focus on affects to human properties, wildfires are a natural part of the ponderosa pine ecosystem and a significant part of the natural cycle of forests. Thus, the newsworthy wildfires in ponderosa pine forests demand our attention and our respect. We cannot, however, eliminate them from these fire-loving forests, nor should we try.

By Cori Dolan
The author is a research specialist for the University of Arizona School of Natural Resources.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:54 AM

Gardening Books

I need to take a break from shoveling snow and what better way than to relax with a favorite gardening book. My bookshelf is lined with gardening books but there are several that have helped and inspired me with the challenges of gardening in Northern Arizona. The following are some of my favorite books.

A must have book for native plant enthusiasts is Native Plants for High-Elevation Gardens by Janice Busco and Nancy Morin. This book from Fulcrum Publishing in partnership with The Arboretum at Flagstaff features descriptions and color photos of 150 plant species. The first few chapters concisely discuss gardening practices for native plants. This is followed by descriptions of specific native plants, their characteristics and native range, outstanding features, landscape possibilities, benefits to wildlife, and historical and modern uses. Cultural requirements, often hard to find for native plants, are listed and include soil preferences, exposure, water use, propagation methods, and maintenance tips.

Natural by Design: Beauty and Balance in Southwest Gardens by Judith Phillips takes you on an illustrated garden tour through the many ecosystems of the Southwest and into gardens she has designed in New Mexico. Landscaped ecosystems include upland forests, desert grasslands, riparian oases, and arid city plots. Though not all plants in her book are suitable for 7,000 feet, her approach to plant use in a native landscape and her eye for the elements of design make this a valuable read for anyone interested in designing with native plants.

High country gardeners can sometimes be frustrated with generic gardening books where most of the guidelines don’t apply to our climate. Gardeners will find The Undaunted Garden: Planting for Weather-Resilient Beauty by Colorado author Lauren Springer suitable to much of Northern Arizona. Some ten years ago, I was ready to call it quits on gardening here until I read this book. It offers hope and solutions to challenging gardening conditions. Her basic message: choose plants that can thrive on what you have to offer and decide what you want to achieve before you break ground. Considered one of the finest gardening books written, this book was selected as one of the 75 Great American Garden Books by the American Horticultural Society. Springer has written a second book with Denver botanist Rob Proctor. Passionate Gardening: Good Advice for Challenging Climates features essays filled with information, advice, humor, and stories.

A book new to my bookshelf but quickly becoming a favorite is The Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses: How to Grow and Use over 250 Beautiful and Versatile Plants by John Greenlee. This book is not only a comprehensive treatise on ornamental grasses, but has beautiful pictures and is easy to comprehend. Charming and witty in person, John Greenlee brings these traits along with his passion for ornamental grasses to every page. He actually signed my book "Poaceously Yours!"

Not just for organic gardeners, gardeners everywhere will enjoy the updated Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening: the Indispensable Resource for Every Gardener edited by Fern Marshall Bradley and Barbara W. Ellis. Originally published in 1959, this classic now features updated sections on composting, xeriscaping and integrated pest management, to name a few. With over 400 entries grouped into 4 main areas: gardening technique, organic garden management, food crops and ornamental plants, there are tips for everyone. Rodale's aim was to create a practical and understandable book on non-chemical gardening. This book continues to do just that.

On the local level, Growing Food in the Southwest Mountains: A Permaculture Approach to Home Gardening Above 6,500 Feet in Arizona, New Mexico, Southern Colorado and Southern Utah by Lisa Raynor is an excellent guide to organic food gardening at high elevations of the Southwest. This little book packs an amazing amount of information, tips, and ideas that can help you better understand gardening in our region. It also advocates gardening in harmony with our natural habitats.

For those interested in growing perennials (an endeavor I highly recommend as many are suited to high elevation gardening), The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting & Pruning Techniques by Tracy Disabato-Aust takes much of the mystery out of tending perennials and offers information on landscape design, site selection, and how to prepare the soil for planting. It is full of hands-on advice that gardeners of all experience levels will find valuable.

My last book recommendation is a little hard to curl up with as it contains 1092 pages and weighs over 8 pounds. The American Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants, edited by Christopher Brickell and Judy Zuk, is the ultimate garden reference book providing listings for more than 15,000 garden plants and illustrated with 6,000 excellent photographs. Organized by genus, individual plant entries contain information about cultivars, propagation, problem pests and diseases, as well as a concise description of the plant's appearance and growth requirements. The book also includes an in-depth glossary of horticultural terms, a great aid to both the beginning and seasoned gardener. Shoveling almost 3 feet of snow has left me well equipped to lift this book; it is well worth the effort.

All of these books are available at our public library and many can be found in local bookstores. These gardening books can help you plan and dream for spring as the snow continues to fall this winter.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the program coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:54 AM

Neighborhood Gardens Nourish Community

Flagstaff’s community gardens make it easy for everyone to have a garden

Do you dream of growing vegetables, herbs and flowers but don’t have a garden of your own? There is a solution — Flagstaff’s diverse collection of community gardens.

Community gardens offer individual plots of garden space for members of the public. Members often run community gardens cooperatively.

The American Community Gardening Association says that “Community gardening improves the quality of life for people by providing a catalyst for neighborhood and community development, stimulating social interaction, encouraging self-reliance, beautifying neighborhoods, producing nutritious food, reducing family food budgets, conserving resources and creating opportunities for recreation, exercise, therapy and education.”

Flagstaff has five independent community gardens. In addition, the Flagstaff Community Gardening Network, a grassroots, nonprofit organization founded to promote community gardening, helps to connect all the gardens to one another and provides startup assistance for new gardens.

All of Flagstaff’s community gardens provide water and gardening tools for members and utilize organic gardening techniques. Most of the gardens have drip irrigation systems. Plot sizes, decision-making procedures and other characteristics vary among the different gardens. All of the gardens currently have plots available for the 2005 gardening season. Flagstaff’s community gardens also host potlucks, gardening workshops and other activities throughout the growing season.

Coconino Community College Garden at the Lonetree campus, 2800 S. Lonetree Road, will open to the public in late May. The garden is adjacent to the ceramics area and the YMCA childcare center. It is surrounded by ponderosa forest. There are two beds available for handicapped people, other raised beds built out of papercrete, limestone and small diameter pine logs, and a plot reserved for the childcare center. Plots will cost $15–20. Members of the Northern Arizona Audubon Society are building birdhouses for insect eating birds as part of our organic pest control efforts. The garden will also feature drought-tolerant landscape plants from the Flagstaff Fabulous Plants list. In addition, the campus will be composting its food scraps and paper waste for use in the garden. A garden workday is scheduled for April 23. Contact Lisa Rayner at 774-5942 or e-mail her at lisa@flagteaparty.org.

Fort Valley Community Garden is located on private land on the corner of Beal Street and Fort Valley Road. The garden is a beautiful haven bordered by trees and shrubs. The plots are 3 feet x 40–45 feet. Several gardeners could share one plot if a smaller space is desired. There is a $10 deposit per plot. Other costs are shared among gardeners as needed. The plots are watered exclusively with city reclaimed water. Contact Gretchen and Todd at tncarizona@yahoo.com or call 774-7098.

Juniper Street Community Garden is located just west of the intersection of North San Francisco Street and Juniper Avenue on land owned by Shepherd of the Hills Lutheran Church. The garden has 12 raised beds built of small diameter pine logs. Each plot is 4 feet x 20 feet. A special feature this year is the children’s garden. Interested parents will cooperatively run this plot; I am providing gardening expertise. A planting party in late May will plant child-friendly vegetables such as Easter egg radishes, and peppermint and miniature pumpkins. We welcome additions to our compost bins from neighborhood residents. To reserve a plot for $20 or to participate in the children’s garden, contact Lisa Rayner at 774-5942 or lisa@flagteaparty.org.

New Start Garden is located at 320 North Aztec Street near Thorpe Park on city-owned land. Project New Start, a public alternative junior/senior high school on the site, runs the garden. A solar greenhouse attached to the school offers a living classroom for students. City of Flagstaff Conservation Educator Ellen Ryan maintains a compost demonstration site that showcases compost bin designs. She gives tours upon request. New Start gardeners may deposit food scraps in the bins. The 4 x 10 foot plots cost $30. To get a plot, contact Mitch Peterson at 773-8198. For compost information, contact Ellen Ryan at 779-7624.

Southside Community Garden is located on private land on the corner of South San Francisco Street and Dupont Avenue. This garden is a project of the Southside Community Association, which is coordinated by David Bonnell, the recipient of Friends of Flagstaff’s Future’s 2004 Livable Community Award. The 4 x 12 foot plots cost $15. The Arboretum at Flagstaff maintains two demonstration plots. April 16 is Trashapalooza, an all-day, family-oriented Southside cleanup and garden kick-off party. Among the participants will be members of the Indigo Movement youth group and 100 volunteers from Christ’s Church of Flagstaff. Contact David at outreach@southsidecommunity.us or 226-0777.

Contact the Flagstaff Community Garden Network at info@flagstaffcgn.net or 380-6825 or visit our website at www.flagstaffcgn.net.

By Lisa Rayner
Lisa Rayner is the coordinator of the Flagstaff Community Garden Network and the author of the book ‘Growing Food in the Southwest Mountains’, a guide for home gardeners above 6,500 feet.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:53 AM

The Tozan Tea House (Part 1 of 2)

The design of the gardens at the Tozan Tea House begins with tea, more accurately, the experience of drinking tea. First, there is the tea bowl, then the kiln to make the tea bowl, then the tea house in which to drink the tea, and the finally the garden embracing the tea house. For the Japanese, the experience of drinking tea is not just consuming a pleasant beverage, as in having a "cuppa", but an experience of rootedness and connectedness within oneself, a getting of one’s bearings, a regaining of one’s temper after having lost it. Coffee is for energy, tea for composure.

Since the tea is served in a bowl, rather than a cup, drinking tea is a two-handed experience. Unlike the cup which is kept at a distance and raised to the lips as though it were a foreign object akin to a knife or fork, drinking tea from a bowl requires that people draw the bowl to themselves, warming their hands, encompassed in the experience.

Now to an American eye, the garden at the Tozan Tea House is not yet developed, but to a Japanese eye the garden is already there in the way the land lies, the grasses, the bushes, and the trees, and, oh yes, the rocks and critters. Rather than impose a foreign, geometrical grid on the land, a Japanese design draws its form from the lay the land. Much as a wise parent rears a child, the gardener cultivates the land’s gifts, drawing out rather than imposing upon.

The design’s purpose is lucidity. Form and economy are the means to accomplish the lucidity. The lines of the design reflect the contours of the land, not merely replicating them, but enhancing them, using the old principle of compare and contrast, rather than duplication and contradiction.

Since Japan is a group of small, heavily populated islands, land is used economically, drawing from it, rather than replacing it. Unlike the Western experience in which land is thought inexhaustible, as in a housing subdivision in which the land is cleared and regimentally planted, the Japanese conserve the land knowing it is finite. The tea house’s garden is indigenous, the tea house and its garden reflecting the land’s contours, flora, and fauna. Instead of being a beautiful picture painted by the designer at which people look, the tea house garden is an experience.

William Temple, the late, great Archbishop of Canterbury, in his commentary of the Gospel of John wrote of lucidity, "To life steadily and to see it whole." Seeing life steadily and seeing it whole is the heart of the experience of tea at the tea house and its garden.

The garden is the brain-child of Dr. Don Bendel, professor emeritus of ceramics at NAU and his alter ego, the late Yukio Yamamoto, master potter of the Tozan Kilns in Japan.

Located at the bottom of a hill just off Lonetree Road on the NAU campus, the first step in the Tozan Tea House’s garden is a few paces from the giant, wood-fired kilns where the tea bowls are fired. The garden encloses a rising path past the ceramic studio where the bowls are thrown. The path then crosses over an earthen and wooden bridge and on up to the Tozan Tea House.

Since the Tozan Tea House is set on a rise, it offers vantage from which people can see not only the trees, but also through them, and beyond them to the forest.

The lintel of one of the doors into the Tozan Tea House is low, which by tradition was for the use of the samurai warriors. They could not get through the door with their swords, forcing them to leave their swords outside. Similarly, a Navajo was once asked why the entrances into the hogans were so low. The Navajo replied, "So that when people enter our homes, they must kneel." Such is the tea house. No body armor. No pretenses.

The quiet experience of the garden at Tozan Tea House is necessary for lucidity. Since the garden is at peace with the land, people can be at peace with themselves and gain that lucidity to see life steadily and to see it whole.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:52 AM

Gardening Advice

I am not usually a gambler, but gardening in Flagstaff qualifies. I draw for no late frost in spring, no early frost in fall, and no hail in summer. The cards I'm holding include drought, wind, and poor soil. Much of Flagstaff and the surrounding areas of Northern Arizona have the gardening deck stacked against them. Yet, beautiful landscapes and thriving plants can be found in many local gardens. Do these gardeners have some trick up their sleeve? Probably not, but they do hold a solid understanding of the growing conditions in their neighborhood and have learned to work with the hand they have been dealt.

Flagstaff has a wide range of growing conditions and challenges for gardening. Each neighborhood has certain gardening attributes; some are better for gardening than others. Learning about the temperature, wind, sun, and soil type that characterize your neighborhood will help your gardening success.

The most obvious difference among neighborhoods is temperature; it can vary by more than 20 degrees. Baderville is one of the coldest areas because of cold air drainage off the Peaks. Cheshire is only a little warmer as it is also influenced by mountain air. Killing frosts occur weeks earlier in these areas than in town. Other frost pockets include neighborhoods off Lake Mary Road, and the low-lying parts of Mountainaire and Kachina.

On the other extreme, neighborhoods on the southern side of Mt. Elden are blessed with some of the warmest temperatures in the area. None-the-less, killing frosts can occur in late spring and early fall. Doney Park and Timberline can get very warm during the day but extremely cold at night. Rapid changes from mild temperatures to cold and extreme fluctuations of night and day temperature make it difficult for some plants to survive.

Temperature is not the only factor to influence your gardening success. Areas to the east of town such as Doney Park and Timberline are subject to harsh, drying winds and often have excessively drained soils. Establishing plants under these conditions is quite a challenge. University Heights and Highlands have temperatures similar to the ones printed in the newspaper but gardening is hampered by heavy clay soils. Downtown and neighborhoods just north of town have both warm spots and cold spots and some of those folks have decent topsoil. Southeast of town, gardeners near the Continental Country Club must contend with drying winds, elk, little soil and many rocks.

At this point, you might want to fold. Let's look at the strengths of our cards. Ample sunshine allows us to grow beautiful perennials. Our crisp nights are great for cool-season vegetables. Low humidity discourages many plant diseases and insect problems that plague gardens "back east." We also have a wide selection of hardy, native plants to choose from. You can overcome the challenges of high elevation gardening by understanding growing conditions in your community and by selecting plants that can thrive in your neighborhood. Following some common sense gardening advice can give you a winning hand.

Know your neighborhood. Better yet, get to know your neighbors. Understanding the particulars of your neighborhood will help you choose the right plant for your location. Who better to ask than a nearby successful gardener? Or ask your nursery professional for advice.

Use microclimates. Microclimates are slight variations in climate in a local area. Use them to your advantage. In the coldest neighborhoods, finding that warmer, protected location for your garden may moderate temperature extremes.

Go organic - organic matter that is! Many Flagstaff soils are low in organic matter. Use organic soil amendments such as compost or composted manure to loosen up a heavy clay soil. Organic matter will help a sandy soil hold moisture.

Plant right. Some plants can take up to two years to get established, so plant correctly the first time. This means digging a hole that 3 to 5 times wider and as deep as the root ball. The more effort you put into getting your plants established, the more likely your success. Sweat, by the way, is the best soil amendment.

Learn to love the natives. We have many wonderful native plants to choose from and because these plants are adapted to our climate, success is increased. Most natives require less water than non-natives and fewer soil amendments, and can better handle widely fluctuating temperatures.

Right plant, right place. This really is the key to success. Some plants are very hardy and can be used in most neighborhoods. Widely adaptable native plants include shrubby cinquefoil, woods rose, chokecherry, three-leaf sumac, wax and golden currents and snowberry. Warner's Nursery suggests several flowering shrubs including lilac, shrub roses and Russian sage, and there is a wide variety of conifers to choose from. Ask for recommendations at your local nursery.

By Hattie Braum
The author is the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Program Coordinator for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:51 AM

Winter Gardening in Cold Frames

No doubt you’ve noticed: winter is quite “real” this year.

When I arrived at The Arboretum at Flagstaff one recent morning and looked toward the Horticulture Center, I was surprised to see that the building’s south face was buried by several feet of snow. Where was the “Hort” Center’s familiar, sloping roof? All I could see was a white mound with the San Francisco Peaks beyond.

It was like a scene from “Dr. Zhivago.” Taking long, high steps through hip-deep snow, I waded through the gardens to my indoor office, where I spent the day writing.

During “the dead of winter,” most gardeners find it hard to get outside, much less to do “growing season” kinds of work. Except in dreams, most high altitude gardeners don’t garden in winter.

That was my style years ago, when I sat near the woodstove on January nights, resting from the toils of the growing season, reading stacks of seed catalogs, and dreaming about everything I’d plant in spring. Although I still read seed catalogs on winter evenings, I’m much more of a “four season gardener” than I used to be. Even on cold winter days I’m outside in the garden tending to plants and enjoying myself.

This change is mainly a result of moving to Flagstaff. I learned very quickly that I had to make adjustments to our high altitude conditions. One of these adjustments has involved experimenting with a gardening tool that’s perfect for cold climate gardening. It’s called the “cold frame.” For me the cold frame is as essential as a pair of sharp hand pruners.

A cold frame is basically a portable box made of wood or metal with a transparent or semi-transparent top to allow light inside. The cold frame’s rear is higher than the front; the top slopes down at a gentle angle.

One of my cold frames is made of scrap lumber. The top is a used window purchased for ten dollars at ERIC Building Supply. I bought a sheet of “Lexan” glazing through the mail and used silicon to adhere it the window pane. The whole thing cost about sixty bucks.

The Lexan is important because it gives the cold frame more insulating capacity, helping to hold in some of the day’s accumulated heat. Just as importantly, the Lexan (unlike window glass) is semi-opaque, allowing only about eighty percent of visible sunlight to penetrate the top. This opacity is not good in cloudy places, but it’s perfect for 7,000 feet, preventing our intense sunlight from turning the cold frame into a solar cooker.

A cold frame is named as such because it’s entirely unheated, except by the sun. The best place to situate a cold frame is facing south, preferably with some thermal mass behind it, like a masonry wall or wood fence. These south-facing microclimates receive the most solar exposure on clear winter days. The thermal mass captures heat and releases it at night. Although it’s partially heated, The Arboretum’s passive solar greenhouse at the Hort Center is basically a giant cold frame.

Inside a cold frame plants live in a relatively warm, protected space. Plants are sheltered from severe cold and frost, high winds, hailstones and sleet, and from hungry elk and rabbits that also enjoy eating fresh, delicious, nutritious winter greens.

I’m continually amazed at how effectively cold frames protect plants like lettuce, mustard, and Swiss chard from the damaging effects of severe cold. Earlier this month, the greens in our two Arboretum cold frames survived below zero temperatures unscathed. It dropped to –13 degrees at The Arb, but the mustard and kale inside showed no signs of stress.

Although the cool season plants one typically grows in a cold frame don’t grow rapidly during winter, they DO grow because our winter sun is bright enough to nurture them. When the days start getting noticeably longer in late January, the plants start growing much faster. You can plant a “cut and come again” salad mix on Valentine’s Day and begin picking fresh, organic greens by St. Paddy’s Day. When June arrives, I switch my cold frames to warm season plants like basil. As the summer monsoon ends, I switch back again to greens like spinach or baby pak choi.

Cold frames don’t require much water, especially during winter. The frame itself protects the soil from drying winds. The enriched soil inside doesn’t dry out easily, and plant leaves act as a living mulch. More often than not, I water my home cold frames with roof-harvested water, even in wintertime.

Cold frames are a sustainable low-tech tool for successfully growing local, place-based foods here on the sunny Colorado Plateau. For more information about how to do it yourself, write me at Patrick.Pynes@NAU.EDU, or check out Eliot Coleman’s excellent book “Four-Season Harvest: Organic Vegetables From Your Home Garden All Year Long.”

By Patrick Pynes
The author is the Director of Gardens and Horticulture at The Arboretum at Flagstaff.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:50 AM

Fall Planting from High Country Gardens

Fall Planting: It Really Works

Believe it or not, fall is a great time to plant. Still, not every knows
it. A friend of mine recently lamented that he’d been too busy this summer
to put in shrubs. “Guess I’ll have to wait ‘til next year,” he said.

Then in grand proselytizing style, I began: “Fall is the best time to
plant.”

His eyebrows rose with cynicism. “Just in time for winter,” he countered.
But it didn’t take long to turn him into another convert to fall planting.
The cooler air is one good reason. It lessens transplant shock and plants
don't need as much water.

Other reasons that gardening can continue until late October include:

* The soil is warmer. During the heart of summer, the soil can sometimes
be a little too warm. But fall soil tends to be just right, which makes
the roots happy.

* After the tops of plants have stopped active growth, all the energy of a
plant returns to the roots. It's during the fall that roots get a chance
to absorb nutrients without needing to distribute them to the leaves and
blooms.

* Plants that get established in the fall have a better chance of making
it through the heat of July and August.

So, if like my friend, you put off planting perennials, trees and shrubs
this summer, you can get your planting done up to the first frost. Fall
planting gives roots a few months to absorb all the goodies they can from
the soil and establish themselves before winter sets in.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:49 AM

The Tozan Tea House Garden (Part 2 of 2)

Beauty is often touched by tragedy, such as in the building of the Tozan Tea House and Garden. The tragedy was the death by leukemia of Aaron Macy, a promising young ceramics student at NAU who was coming of age as a potter. His father, Douglas Macy, a well-known landscape architect in Portland, Oregon, grieving his son’s death, wanted to memorialize his son with a legacy of beauty. At the suggestion of Don Bendel and Jason Hess of NAU’s ceramics department, he agreed to supervise the construction of the Tozan Tea House and Garden in his son’s memory.

With the 1989 blueprints of Hirotomi Ichikawa, the famous Japanese landscape architect, already in hand, Douglas Macy began the cultural and horticultural translation of a tea house and garden from Japan to Flagstaff.

Funded by Betty Peckard and other donors from Japan and America, the project lurched ahead over the years.

Serendipitously, Brad Blake and Phil Patterson from the NAU Research Greenhouses discovered the project and offered their services in securing plants apropos to Flagstaff. As with any good translation, the garden’s design and plantings had to be faithful to the original as well as to the new. Now, some cognoscenti are likely to say, "Something’s going to be lost in the translation," as though there is no plant indigenous or adaptable to Northern Arizona that would quite do the trick as well as a plant native to Japan. However, often as not, something is also gained in translation. So it is with the Garden of Tozan Tea House.

One of the principles of Japanese landscaping is using plants native to the site. Thus, the Tozan Tea House Garden is not a tit-for-tat, literal translation, but rather a faithful adaptation. Happily, much of the garden’s land is undisturbed so that the garden is covered with native ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa), pinyon pine (Pinus edulis), and Gambel oak (Quercus gambelii). The understory includes various penstemons and wildflowers along with native grasses, such as mutton grass (Poa fendleriana), mountain muhly (Muhlenbergia montana), and spike muhly (Muhlenbergia wrightii).

The land immediately around a Japanese tea house is planted with grass. The land around Tozan Tea House which sets atop a knob has been planted with Arizona fescue (Festuca arizonica). A hedge customarily flows in parabolic curves through the grounds of a Japanese tea house garden as though to draw the eye beyond a tight defensive circle of fear and to shield it from the distractions of the huly-burly. Since hedges are not native, a hedge cotoneaster (Cotoneaster lucidus) was used. A low water plant, it hails from Siberia, Eastern Asia, and the Caucasus, a hardy horticultural immigrant for the Colorado Plateau. Finally, along Lone Tree Road a line of New Mexican Locusts (Robinia neomexicana) and Riles Roses (Rosa sp.) from the NAU campus will buffer the garden.

A good translation always begins literally, but then transcends into style. The gain for Flagstaff is not in the plants, that is, in the content, but in the style or process. Ultimately, reality is in process, not content. How a thing is said is more important than what it said. The Tozan Tea House and Garden give everyone the opportunity to see the familiar in a new and different way, to see life steadily and to see it whole, to take the parabolic curve beyond the perimeters of paranoia into the journey of a lifetime.

The Tozan Tea House Garden is Japanese in essence in its form and economy, and Southwestern in its horticultural language. It offers the lucidity of simplicity, as in Occam’s Razor and Robert Browning’s "less is more," remembering that profusion leads to confusion. The Garden also offers that lucidity in the beauty of the Colorado Plateau.
The Tozan Tea House and Garden are located on Lone Tree Road, south of Pine Knoll Road and on the right hand side of the road.

By Dana Prom Smith
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:48 AM

Learning to Appreciate Bugs in the Garden

The Arboretum at Flagstaff’s newest exhibit, “Bugs at Work,” runs now through the month of May, on the east side of the Horticulture Center. The show features insects, spiders, and worms—all creatures that are essential to a healthy garden. The message of this exhibit is that not all bugs are pests. In fact, The Arboretum relies upon beetles, flies, ants, and worms to develop our soil. Flowering plants in the gardens must be pollinated by insects. In addition, whenever possible, we use natural controls in our gardens and greenhouses to keep our insect populations from becoming pests.

The Biology Department at NAU generously provided specimens for the exhibit. The gorgeous mounted and live creatures are from the department’s collection at the Colorado Plateau Museum of Arthropod Biodiversity. “Bugs at Work” is an excellent opportunity for plateau residents to determine if the insects found in local gardens are pests or beneficial bugs.

Gardeners at The Arboretum are extremely cautious about pesticide use and hope that area residents will be conservative in their use of toxic chemicals in their gardens as well. Broad spectrum pesticides such as Malathion and Sevin do not differentiate between beneficial bugs and pests.

Visitors to the “Bugs at Work” exhibit will see how The Arboretum uses beneficial insects such as lady beetles, praying mantises, green lacewings, and whitefly parasites in our greenhouses. The Arboretum orders these insects from Nature’s Control in Oregon and the live bugs are shipped to us within two days. A complete catalog is available online at www.naturescontrol.com. It is important to correctly identify the pest that is plaguing your garden and then select the appropriate control insect to feed upon the pest.

For example, if you notice an infestation of aphids sucking the life out of your tomato plants this summer, order a batch of lady beetles to take care of them. When the lady beetles arrive, do not release them in the garden immediately. It is better to put them in the refrigerator overnight. Refrigeration will calm the bugs, and they will be less likely to fly away once you have released them from the bag. It is best to release them in the early evening on infested plants that have been sprinkled with water. This technique ensures that when they wake up thirsty and hungry from their voyage, they will find abundant food and water and will want to stay in your garden as long as the supply of aphids lasts.

On Saturday, April 30, The Arboretum is celebrating Arbor Day by offering free admission all day. There will be a Live Bug Zoo from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. in association with the insect exhibit. Robert Delph, an entomologist from the Colorado Plateau Museum of Arthropod Biodiversity at NAU, will have amazing live specimens to share with the public. Learn about native Arizona insects, spiders, and scorpions as well as some bizarre tropical bugs. Robert will handle live insects so that visitors can view them up close and actually touch a selection of bugs as well. Visit a vinegaroon, talk to a tarantula, cackle along with our cactus beetle, but don’t scare the scorpions or manhandle the mantis when you come to the Bug Zoo. Learn some interesting facts about the unusual mating habits of spiders, how scorpion mothers care for their young, and the secret to the hissing cockroach sound.

We invite you to come to Arbor Day at The Arboretum with questions about pest control, or insects in general, and we will do our best to provide you with the information you will need to control infestations and encourage beneficial bugs in your garden. Let’s all try to reduce our reliance on chemical pesticides.

By Rachel Edelstein
Rachel Edelstein is the Public Programs Manager at the Arboretum at Flagstaff. You can reach her at Rachel.Edelstein@nau.edu.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:47 AM

Gardening Woes

This has been the most frustrating of gardening years for me since moving to Flagstaff thirteen years ago. It all started with the sweet peas that failed to germinate. Then the kale was ravaged by flea beetles. The lettuce looked nice but was too bitter to eat. The basil bolted before developing enough leaves to harvest. Dozens of zucchini formed but rotted before they were even two inches long. Then the cucumbers failed to produce any fruit. And I have yet to pick a single ripe tomato.

But as discouraging as this may seem, I will never call it quits. For every challenge experienced in the garden, I’ll learn something new and try something different. I’ll get more creative and ask for more advice.

Next year, I will try starting the peas indoors in 6-pack containers and planting them outside after they are a few inches tall. Though peas are a cold tolerant annual and can germinate when soil temperatures are as low as 40°F, they do best at soil temperatures around 60°F. Our cold, wet spring likely prevented uniform germination. Starting plants inside will give me control when spring weather is unfavorable.

Lettuce leaves are often bitter when plants are ready to bolt. This was not the case for my plants so the culprit was likely the very hot weather we experienced in July. Lettuce is a cool season crop and prefers some shade when temperatures get above 80°F. Next year, I’ll plant a batch earlier so harvest happens in June. And I’ll plant a second crop amongst my pole beans to keep the plants shaded during the hotter times. I’ll also mulch to help maintain soil moisture and keep the roots cool.

There was a huge outbreak of flea beetles in the southwest this June and my kale seedlings were part of the plunder. Flea beetle injury is most damaging to seedlings; mature plants can often handle some munching. As natural chemicals are often ineffective against flea beetles, next year I’ll try two different cultivation techniques. I’ll use transplants that are large enough to take some damage. Then I’ll cover the plants with a floating row cover during their most vulnerable stage.

This spring I started my basil plants indoors with poor results. My plants were small and spindly and never developed into robust plants. Could that be the reason for the rush to produce flowers? Next year, I’ll take greater care when starting plants and pay more attention to the cultivar that I select. For now, I’ll pinch back the blossoms to give the leaves a chance to develop.

Zucchini are usually easy to grow so this year’s rotting fruit had me puzzled. This problem may be blossom end rot caused by irregular watering during a hot, dry July when the blossoms were setting fruit. This year and next, I’ll water with greater care during dry spells.

For my cucumbers, I just need to be more patient. On a normal cucumber plant, the first 10 or so flowers are male, and for every female flower, which will produce the fruit, 10 to 20 male flowers are produced. I’ve seen lots of flowers on my cucumber plants but it’s likely that most have been male. I’ll wait a few weeks to see if fruit starts to develop.

I was late getting tomatoes into the ground this year. Getting the beds ready earlier should help. With our short growing season, waiting until after our frost-free date in June may be too late if one wants to harvest tomatoes before the first fall frost. I’ll plant in mid-May and use wall-o-waters or other season extenders to get the plants through those frosty mornings in late May. I’ll continue growing early maturing varieties but I’ll also try growing some Siberian tomatoes that are known to set fruit in cool weather.

Gardening brings out the optimist in me as for every challenge there is often something that grows just right. This year, I had an excellent crop of green beans. Where the peas failed to germinate, I sowed the seeds of California bluebells. These germinated and bloomed within a month, covering the garden with dozens of bright, royal blue flowers. And this has also been a great year for peppers as evidenced by the dozens of fruit on the two jalapenos that my son planted.

And while I’m away on vacation, enjoying the tomatoes and sweet corn of central Pennsylvania, I’ll take pleasure in knowing that my neighbor will get to pick and enjoy the first ripe tomato.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for Arizona Cooperative Extension in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:47 AM

Growing Plants from Seeds

After seemingly endless weeks of cold, wintry weather, the first hints of the coming spring are a sight for sore eyes: crocuses bravely blooming among the snowdrifts, a few red-breasted robins, and displays of colorful seed packets cropping up all over town I can’t resist those neat little packets filled with dreams of summer. Growing seeds into healthy plants to set out in the garden is a great end-of-winter project.

The first step is to select seeds that are suited for starting indoors. This information is generally provided on the back of each packet, along with the depth of planting, the average time for the seeds to sprout, and the recommended spacing for the seedlings.

You will need some basic supplies and equipment to insure success, including planting containers, sterile seed-starting mix, waterproof trays to hold the containers, and a bright, adjustable-height light. Another item that can be very helpful is a warming pad or old electric blanket.

Suitable containers include Styrofoam coffee cups, the small foam trays in which mushrooms are packed, peat pots, small plastic pots, and the plastic “six-packs” from garden centers. Whatever you use, make sure the containers are really clean. If you’re reusing them, wash thoroughly with soap and water, then rinse with a dilute solution of Clorox (a tablespoon of bleach in a washtub of water will do the job.)

It’s best to use a commercial sterile mix, preferably one that doesn’t contain soil. While seeds will germinate in soil, the new sprouts are often quite susceptible to soil-born diseases, fungi, and mildew. The key to success in growing seeds indoors is to maintain very clean, healthy conditions around the baby plants until they’ve grown big enough to develop their own defenses. Seed starting mixes are available almost everywhere plants are sold.

Any waterproof tray will be fine for holding the small containers you’ve planted with seeds. It just needs to be large enough to hold a bunch of pots or cups, or whatever, and be absolutely watertight. This is because you will be watering your pots from below by pouring water into the tray and letting the individual pots soak it up through their drainage holes.

A plant light is critical. While many of us have a sunny window, it’s almost never sunny enough. Unless you have a spot for your seedlings that’s brightly lit nearly all day long, the plants will not have enough light and will grow tall and spindly. Fortunately, it’s fairly easy and inexpensive to rig up a light that will serve quite well for starting plants. I use a 4-foot shop light that holds two fluorescent bulbs. A variety of stands is available in garden centers and from catalogs. You could even support the fixture with some blocks or bricks under each end. It’s helpful to use an automatic timer to turn the light on and off each day. Seedlings seem to do well with about 14 hours of bright light each day.

Some seeds germinate best in warm soil. Among these are the seeds of warm season vegetables, most especially tomatoes. To start tomato seeds, you’ll want to place the tray on top of a warming pad or electric blanket, turned to its lowest setting. Obviously, you’ll need to take care to keep children and pets from chewing on the electrical cords, and make sure the pad or blanket is just warm, never hot. You want to encourage those seeds, not cook them!

Now, at last, comes the fun part: planting those seeds! If you’re using cups or plastic boxes from the grocery store, use a sharp pencil to poke some holes in the bottom. Fill the pots with the seed starting mix and tamp lightly. Plant the seeds at the recommended depth (check those seed packets!) and tamp the soil over them. Place them in the watertight trays and pour water into the trays to a depth of about ¼ inch. Once the water has been absorbed, add another ¼ inch. Watch for the top of the soil in the pots to become moist. That’s when enough water has been added. Don’t allow the pots to stand in water, or the seeds will rot.

Place the trays in some safe, out-of-the-way place where they can sit, undisturbed, for a few weeks, until the seeds sprout. If you have planted tomato seeds, place them on the warm pad or blanket. There’s no need to provide light until the sprouts appear.

Once the seedlings start coming up, place the trays in a bright location or under your plant light. The light should be adjusted so the fixture is just an inch or two above the tiny leaves. As the plants grow, raise the light to maintain this spacing. Keep the soil evenly moist by adding water to the tray, but don’t overdo it. The soil should never be soggy.

When the seedlings develop their second set of leaves, or “true leaves”, you can carefully lift the tiny plants and plant them in individual pots. Place these back in the tray (you may need more trays!) and keep on growing them under the plant light until they are big, strong plants, ready to be put out in the garden.

I’ll have more to say about setting out home grown plants in a future article. For now, get busy planting those seeds and make your dreams of summer come true!

The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:46 AM

In Praise of Native Trees

Nearly sixteen years ago I moved from the lush, cool green of east Tennessee’s Smoky Mountains to the bright sunshine and brown mesas of New Mexico’s Rio Grande Valley. This radical change in physical environments came as a shock. For about a year I felt dislocated in the high desert. I missed the green forests and cold, rushing creeks of home.

To add to this homesickness, my sense of space seemed out of kilter. The vast open spaces of New Mexico were thrilling but disorienting. I loved being able to see sixty miles across the desert to the snow-capped Jemez Mountains, but I could not get a “bearing” on the actual distance between things. I realize now that I did not understand how the different pieces of the visible landscape fit together as a meaningful whole. The relationships between different parts of the landscape (Interstate 40, Sandia Mountains, Rio Grande, etc.) were not yet clear to me.

I found myself spending a lot of time walking in the bosque of the Rio Grande. (If you’ve ever been to the banks of the Verde River, then you know something about the Rio Grande bosque.) The bosque is a rich riparian forest, a ribbon of precious water, trees, and shade in an otherwise arid landscape. In the bosque I found a place that was familiar enough to remind me of Tanasi, but different enough to begin teaching me about my new home.

The bosque helped me to make the transition between the Southeast and the Southwest. I don’t know exactly when it happened, but after about a year I became completely comfortable within the local landscape. For this reason, and for everything it taught me about the land and people of New Mexico and the greater Southwest, the bosque will always be a place that I carry with me, with great affection.

In the bosque I first encountered the cottonwood, one of the Southwest’s most beautiful and important trees. As NAU’s Tom Whitham and other researchers have shown, the cottonwood is a keystone species for our bioregion. The lives of so many plants, birds, insects, and other species depend upon these trees. Healthy cottonwood trees mean that abundant water is present, on or below the surface. Hopi carvers create katsina dolls from cottonwood roots. Katsinas bring snow and rain.

Unlike Albuquerque, the Flagstaff area is not blessed with a bosque. Two thousand feet higher, and much cooler (in more ways than one!), we are blessed with a portion of the largest contiguous ponderosa pine forest in the world. This forest stretches across the Mogollon Rim, from Arizona into New Mexico. We live within this forest. As such we are a vital part of it.

My admiration for ponderosa pines equals my affection for cottonwoods, and not only because my paternal ancestors are named for this conifer. Without the ponderosa, there would be no Flagstaff. The name for our home place (FlagSTAFF) refers to this native tree.

Cottonwoods are rare around here, but we are blessed with another important native deciduous tree. This is the aspen, close cousin to the cottonwood. Aspens and cottonwoods belong to the same botanical family (Populus). Naturally speaking, aspens indicate the presence of fire, just as cottonwoods indicate water. Being sun lovers, they colonize recently burned places. Culturally speaking, aspens also indicate what time it is. Their golden leaves tell us that winter’s cold is near, and in springtime their fresh green leaves mean that warm summer days are imminent. Many of us tell time by observing the changing of the aspens, in both seasons.

Naturally speaking, there are no ponderosas or aspens growing in the Southwest’s lower elevation bosques. It’s too hot down there. And there are few (Fremont) cottonwoods growing up here in our pine forests. It’s too cold.

But Flagstaff and the bosque do have at least one important tree in common. You’ll find it growing among the cottonwoods along the Verde River and Rio Grande, and you’ll find it growing in downtown Flagstaff. This deciduous tree is the dominant species in our urban forest. Lately this weak-limbed non-native has been battered by heavy wet snows, and large piles of its broken branches are heaped on sidewalks all over the city.

The tree I’m referring to, of course, is the Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila). Like many of us who live in Flagstaff, the Siberian elm is not native to the Colorado Plateau, but it has certainly found a home here. While I have no affection at all for the Siberian elm, I have developed a grudging respect for it. In a future column I will go into more detail about this infamous non-native “weed,” and all that it tells us about our home place.

By Patrick Pynes
The author is Director of Gardens and Horticulture for The Arboretum at Flagstaff.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:44 AM

Rainwater Harvest - Put Your Rain to Work

Each year more residents from Northern Arizona communities are participating in the ancient art of rainwater harvesting. For centuries, inhabitants of arid lands throughout the world have relied on captured rainwater to provide for household and agricultural needs. Today in Flagstaff, and the surrounding area, many people have chosen rainwater harvesting to supplement the water needs of their landscapes and gardens.

In Northern Arizona much of our rain accumulation occurs during the summer monsoon season. This gives local residents the unique opportunity to harvest rain and put it to work in their landscapes and gardens. The Flagstaff area receives an average of 21 inches of rain per year. That amount varies significantly from year to year, and only native and well-adapted plants can survive without supplemental watering. Incredibly, 1000 square feet of impermeable surface can provide approximately 600 gallons of rainwater with every inch of rain we receive.

There are many benefits to harvesting rainwater. Rainwater harvesting serves as an effective water conservation tool by reducing the amount of drinking water used for landscape irrigation. Through harvesting rainwater, you may save money on your water bill each month. Rainwater is oxygenated, un-chlorinated, free of salts and warmer than tap water, which makes it preferable for watering plants, lawns, and gardens, or for adding moisture to compost. Additionally, rainwater harvesting will reduce off-site flooding and erosion by holding rain on site. Flagstaff residents are eligible to receive a 10% credit toward storm water fees for installing rain collection systems of adequate size. Rain barrels, from the City of Flagstaff Rain Barrel Distribution Program, provide the additional benefit of reusing food grade barrels that would otherwise find their way to our landfills.

With just a little creativity, innumerable methods can be developed for harvesting rain. Patricia Waterfall, author of Harvesting Rainwater for Landscape Use, defines water harvesting as “the capture, diversion, and storage of rainwater for plant irrigation and other uses.” Rainwater harvesting can be achieved using simple systems such as constructing small berms and drainages to direct water to plants, or complex systems involving storage tanks, pumps and irrigation systems. Simple rain collection systems are usually dependant on gravity and designed to slow the water down so it can infiltrate the soil. The simplest system involves directing runoff from hardscapes such as sidewalks and patios to nearby gardening beds.

Complex systems cost more to build, but will achieve a greater water yield than systems without storage. Before constructing a complex system it is important thoroughly plan and design in order to maximize your benefit. While designing any system, consider the cost of storage, pumps, and electrical equipment. Also, consider the maintenance requirements of all these components. To reduce the cost of a complex system, you can limit storage capacity. You may also limit landscape area, lessening water demand. Lastly, consider replacing any high water use plants with native or well-adapted drought tolerant varieties.

Water harvesting opportunities are available on any developed site; even very small landscapes can benefit from water harvesting. Homes, schools, parks, parking lots, apartment complexes, and commercial facilities all provide opportunities where rainfall can be harvested and put to work. Whether your landscape is large or small, the principles remain the same.

While even the simplest collection methods can provide great benefits, it is important to consider some of the challenges with rainwater harvesting. In most cases, low-cost simple systems require a lot of hard physical labor. Complex systems involving tanks, and pumps can be very expensive, often exceeding $1,000. All systems may require on-going maintenance to prevent failure from debris or poor water quality. In addition to cost and maintenance, we must remember that stored water can become a breeding ground for vectors, including mosquitoes. Covering your rain barrels or tanks can help prevent vector populations from developing. Bug screens (the same screen used for covering windows and doors) provide an excellent barrier that will prevent vector breeding while filtering large debris such as leaves and twigs out of the water. The limitations of water harvesting are few and can be easily mitigated with good planning, design and care.

Rainwater harvesting is a unique water conservation tool because it is not about implementing new innovative technologies, but rather reverting to old proven practices. Through rainwater harvesting we have the opportunity to address today’s natural resource challenges using a model developed by our ancestors. Rainwater harvesting can be a rewarding water conservation experience for everyone. For additional information on rainwater harvesting, contact the City of Flagstaff Water Conservation Office at (928) 779-7685 ext. 4827.

Adam Miller is the Water Conservation Manager for the City of Flagstaff.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:43 AM

Preparing the Garden for Winter

This article is for all us procrastinators who have yet to put their gardens to bed. But can we be blamed? Fall seemed so mild this year and it was only last week that winter temperatures were really upon us. Except for shutting off the irrigation - irrigation systems should have been shut down when nighttime temperatures dropped below 28o - there's still plenty of time to finish those gardening jobs left undone.

Watering: In our dry climate, watering your garden thoroughly before the ground freezes is an important garden task especially for non-native ornamentals. Long, dry periods during fall and winter can damage the root systems of many shallow-rooted plants. Water trees and shrubs deeply every 3-4 weeks up until the soil freezes and then during extended warm, dry periods.

Cut Back Perennials: Many perennials should be cut back to about 4 to 8 inches above the ground. But you can skip this step for any perennial that looks particularly attractive in the fall; your perennials will survive just fine. You may also want to leave those plants with seed heads that are favored by birds during the winter. For those perennials that look messy during the cold weather months, cut them back now to keep your garden looking tidy and to avoid extra work in the spring.

Start a Compost Pile: If you don’t already have a compost pile, now's a great time to start one with all your trimmings. You can throw them into your compost bin along with dried leaves and vegetable kitchen scrapes. Over time, this will break down into a nutrient-rich compost. If you're reluctant to trek to the compost pile in the dead of winter, you can also start a composting worm bin that can be kept close at hand. You can find information on worm composting at www.mastercomposter.com/.

Apply Winter Mulch: Winter mulch isn't necessary for all garden plants but it can mean survival for the less hardy ones. Adding mulch this time of year minimizes temperature variations, reduces frost heaving, and can delay early spring growth that can be damaged by late spring freezes. Many northern Arizona gardeners use pine needles on their garden beds but any organic mulch such as straw or bark chips will do. Late fall is the perfect time to mulch; winter mulch should be applied when nighttime temperatures are consistently below freezing.

Support Your Shrubs: Large, multi-stemmed shrubs such as roses are particularly prone to damage from ice and heavy snow. To prevent damage, support multi-stemmed plants by bundling the stems together using horticultural tape. Carefully remove heavy snow as soon as possible, but don't try to remove ice. Less damage to the plant will occur if the ice is allowed to melt on its own.

Cleaning and Storing Tools: Once your garden cleanup is done, it's time to care for your garden tools. Clean, oil, and sharpen your tools, then store them in a dry place for the winter so they will be ready for next season. Drain garden hoses and store them in a sheltered place where they won’t freeze and crack. Also, don’t forget to disconnect your hoses from your hose bibs.

Without some fall preparations in the garden, you risk losing some of your less hardy or younger plants to the elements, and also face more work in preparing your garden in the spring. If you haven't already done so, it's well worth spending some time in your garden this fall. Besides, we almost always have a few warm December days that are perfect weather for working out in the garden.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:40 AM

Biological Pollutants

Over the past few drought-ridden years our collective attention has turned to the issue of forest health. If you are like me, you may have even thinned a few trees from your property to reduce the threat of fire. But there is another far more incipient threat lurking unnoticed in our community. The spread of invasive weeds has been equated to a biological wildfire and a biological pollutant for good reason. Many of these weeds lack natural controls and as a result, spread unfettered across our countryside. Residents of Flagstaff have witnessed this firsthand, as diffuse knapweed has run rampant, enveloping large tracks of disturbed lands, school campuses, and areas adjacent to our highways and byways.

But before we address this recent scourge, it’s probably in my best interest to back up this wild metaphor with something more substantive. Utah State University Cooperative Extension has published a brochure that compares the damage caused by expanding populations of weeds to the damage caused by wildfires. They even go to the extent of drawing an analogy between the distant spread of weed seeds to that of burning embers and the creation of spot infestations, much like spot fires preceding an advancing wildfire. While the threat to human safety seems a bit distant from a “Little Shop of Horrors” type scenario, the slow cancer-like growth of invasive weeds can riddle a landscape.

Exotic, invasive plants have earned infamous reputations and appropriate designations of “noxious,” with good reason. Several weed species are on Arizona’s Noxious Weed list, and a couple of them are having their way with the landscape. From colonial populations, many of these species are able to spread into our wildlands and even into our own backyards. Diffuse knapweed is all over town and extends its tentacles throughout the county. I have personally seen this occur in my own neighborhood with spotted knapweed, a sister species to diffuse knapweed, which exudes alleleopathic compounds from its roots and tissues, severely hampering growth of all other plants and potentially leading to a monotypic landscape of knapweed.

This problem has taken on such magnitude that a National Invasive Weed Awareness Week has been created, beginning on February 28th and ending today. The most recent issue of National Geographic highlights this blight of exotic species on native communities by asking hard questions related to maintaining biodiversity and functionality of our global ecosystems. There are no quick fixes to this problem. Better living through chemistry will not expunge these pests from the planet. This long-term battle begins by taking action in our own community and more specifically, in our own yards. It is incumbent upon gardeners and non-gardeners alike to learn to identify these plants and dispose of them.

Now, you might say, “What’s the dang deal here; let nature take its course.” Well the problem is, while our Anglo-ancestors brought these unpalatable plants to every nook and cranny of the West, they neglected to bring in the controlling agents. Alien species have a built-in handicap that gives them a distinct advantage over many of our native plants and animals. Another botanical nightmare that we have seen locally, Russian knapweed, is capable of causing the often-fatal Chewing’s Disease in that beautiful gelding you have out in the back pasture. Now before all of you horse enthusiasts start panicking, we know of only two populations within 25 miles of Flagstaff and weapons of mass destruction have been called in to combat this menace.

Speaking of alluring falsehoods, Dalmatian toadflax is “puttin on the ritz” for many in our community who are actually taken in by this plant’s appearance. If you are one of those folks that enjoy the yellow honeysuckle-like flowers in your garden, then I suggest you save yourself some time, dig up all your other ornamentals and find a hue of paint for your house that will match the monochromatic canary yellow that will soon adorn your yard. Dalmatian toadflax is the equivalent of that physically appealing former boyfriend/girlfriend/husband/wife that revealed their true roots to you after running roughshod over the landscape of your soul. And what roots! Don’t bother yanking this weed out of the ground unless the soil is wet. If you fragment roots of this toady in the soil, you only aggravate it to the extent where it responds with the vigor only seen in the likes of professional baseball’s steroid-enhanced home run hitters.

Many strategies can be employed in the battle against these alien invaders. As mentioned earlier, you can yank them out by the roots or spray them with herbicides; you can graze them with goats or incinerate them or try to out-compete them with native plants. Members of the San Francisco Peaks Weed Management Area are even attempting to introduce biological controls (bugs) to our region. In this effort to retain ecological integrity, one thing is certain - clear avenues of success will only be achieved with everyone on board. From the City, to the County, to your neighbor watering the toadflax next door, a collective proactive approach that emphasizes early detection and prevention is our best weapon. Because, like pollutants, noxious and invasive weeds recognize no boundaries as they spread from private to public land.

By Wade Albrecht
The author is the Natural Resources Program Coordinator for the University of Arizona Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:39 AM

Featured Plants at the Arboretum Plant Sale

Growing up in Maryland and Pennsylvania, I spent countless hours roaming the wooded hillsides and mountains and searching for native wildflowers. I was attracted to rare and showy wildflowers in that lush eastern setting such as yellow lady's-slipper, painted trillium, fringed gentian, trout lily, and showy orchids. After moving west, it took me some time to realize that wildflowers can be found in many habitats, not just the deep, lush woods of the eastern United States, and that the wildflowers found in western states can be just as showy and beautiful as anything from the east. I saw the light thanks to the folks at the Arboretum at Flagstaff and their fabulous Plant Sale. Not only could I see native species in a garden setting but I could also buy them and grow them at home.

The Arboretum’s Summer Plant Sale and Garden Fair is Saturday, June 18. I want to introduce you to a few favorite plants that will be available at the Sale. If you can't make the Sale, these plants can be found at several local nurseries.

If you have a sunny site with a decent soil, want to attract butterflies, and like to grow plants with big, showy flowers, western sneezeweed is the plant for you. Otherwise known as Hymenoxys hoopesii, this plant has long, droopy petals that look like owl’s claws. The ray flowers are bright gold and surround the tiny disk flowers that make up the center of this daisy-like inflorescence. Flowering occurs in late spring to early summer. It is the perfect plant for those gardening in elk habitat as western sneezeweed is unpalatable to elk. However, it is poisonous to sheep and horses and considered a weed by some.

Sneezeweed is a weed only when growing "out of place"; it is a native plant and is found in moist mountain meadows and coniferous forests. Western sneezeweed is perfect for cooler locations in town or when planted in an enriched garden soil.

Contrast the sturdy structure and bright sunny color of western sneezeweed with the delicate foliage and sky blue of blue flax or Linum lewisii. Because of its fine-textured leaves, blue flax looks best when planted in groups or when combined with other wildflowers. As a native, blue flax is well adapted to the unpredictable climatic of Northern Arizona, thriving under cold conditions, handling periods of drought, and blooming even on windy days.

Early each morning from spring through early summer, blue flax is covered with dozens of one-inch blue flowers that extend from arching stems. Flowers close by mid-afternoon on sunny days but may remain open all day on cloudy days. Occasionally this plant will bloom again in late summer with the arrival of the monsoons. Blue flax is not a long-lived plant, so allow volunteer seedlings to replace older plants.

Another wildflower that is perfect for planting in mass or mixed with other natives in a wildflower meadow or low-water garden is scarlet gilia, otherwise known as Ipomopsis aggregata. This plant is a biennial which means it forms a basal rosette of leaves the first year and holds off flowering until the second. But the show is not over after just two years; scarlet gilia produces plenty of seeds that are quick to germinate, starting the cycle all over again.

Scarlet gilia has an abundance of common names including desert trumpet, skyrocket, fairy trumpet, and my least favorite, skunk flower, which originates from the skunk-like odor of its leaves. This slight scent doesn't detract hummingbirds that buzz the trumpet-like, crimson-red flowers searching for nectar. Scarlet gilia is very adaptable and can be found growing on dry hillsides and in open pine forests. Grow it under similar conditions and you will be blessed with bright red flowers and visiting hummingbirds all summer long.

No native plant sale would be complete without offering a columbine or two, and the Arboretum has several including western columbine or Aquilegia formosa. Like most columbines, western columbine petals have spurs that project behind the flower, giving it a fairy-like quality. The flowers grow at the tips of the stems, nodding gracefully over lacey foliage. The flowers of western columbine are up to two inches across with red spurs and sepals and yellow petals. Flowers appear late spring to early summer but deadheading will keep it blooming longer.

Though not a native to Arizona, western columbine is common in most western states and thrives in moist meadows, near stream banks, and in mixed evergreen forests. It grows best in moist, partly shaded sites. This plant is a good nectar source for hummingbirds, bees and butterflies.

You’ll find many other plants at the Arboretum’s Plant Sale that are native to Northern Arizona or adapted to our harsh high altitude growing conditions. The sale is open to the public from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on June 18.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the Arizona Cooperative Extension of Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:37 AM

Plant Now!

It’s an open “secret” among Flagstaff gardeners: fall is the best time to plant many perennials, bulbs, shrubs, trees, and even seeds. It may not feel right. After all, there’s nothing like that first warm day of spring, when the snow begins to recede at last, buds start to unfurl on bare tree branches, and you feel that warm spring sunshine. All these signs conspire to draw us out to the garden, spade in hand. It’s wonderful, and I fall for it every year.

Here’s the thing: springtime in Flagstaff is brutal. The combination of cold soil, drying winds, and late frosts creates a most inhospitable environment for tender transplants. But consider the garden environment right now. The soil is still warm. It will be another month or two before it freezes. After this week’s soaking rains, the soil is probably well moistened. Drying winds are fairly uncommon this time of year. Grasshoppers and aphids have disappeared. All of these factors make this a great time to plant. Better get busy!

What kinds of plants are suitable for fall planting? Almost any hardy perennial will do well. I’ve been planting purple coneflower, blanket flower, woods asters, snapdragons, hardy violas, chrysanthemums, butterfly weed, and native grasses. This is prime time for planting spring-blooming bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses, grape hyacinths, and many others. It’s also a great time to plant shrubs and trees. While their branches are bare, these woody plants will be putting most of their energy into growing roots. Get them started in your garden now and next spring they should be well-established.

How should you care for new plantings now? Water deeply at the time of planting and then every 3-4 days or whenever you notice any signs of wilting. This will vary depending on the microclimate of your garden bed. Once the garden is covered by snow, you won’t need to water. But if we have a long dry spell during the winter months, occasional deep watering will be needed. (Remember to detach your hose after you finish!)

Some mulch is helpful for preventing the soil from drying out too quickly, but don’t overdo it. An inch or two of finely shredded organic mulch or a loose covering of pine needles will be fine. A thick layer of coarse mulch may actually shed any rain or water you spray on your garden, preventing it from reaching the soil. Leave the bases and stems of the plants free of mulch to allow good air circulation.

Once the snow comes, I like to pile the snow from our walk and driveway right on top of the garden. Don’t dump it; lay it gently on the garden and tuck it in around and over your plants. It shields against freezing winds and frosts, keeps the plants relatively warm, and prevents drying of plants or soil.

Then just be patient, knowing that your fall-planted garden is hard at work growing strong root systems. When the warm weather arrives at last, your plants will be ready to grow!

By Alice Monet
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:34 AM

Grow Your Gardening Knowledge at AZ Highlands Garden Conference

For some, the highlight of the gardening year may be June, when the winds of spring die down, days lengthen, and poppies and penstemons splash flower beds with color. For others, it’s July’s monsoon that greens the native grasses, or August, when purple asters, misty Russian sage, and black-eyed Susans say goodbye to summer.

But for many high country gardening enthusiasts—those who persevere in the face of frost, grasshoppers, aridity and all the other challenges that face northern Arizonans—an undisputed highlight of the gardening year will come this October 3 and 4. That’s when the Sixth Annual Arizona Highlands Garden Conference presents beginning and seasoned gardeners alike with an autumn bouquet of fresh ideas and information, along with techniques and solutions designed to help maximize gardening enjoyment and success.

Grow Your Gardening Knowledge at AZ Highlands Garden Conferenceby Julia Hastings
The conference provides a user-friendly venue where garden hobbyists and professionals can meet and mingle and share ideas specifically tailored to northern Arizona’s 3,000 to 7,000 foot elevation. It’s the result of the collaborative efforts of Master Gardener volunteers from Coconino, Gila, Navajo and Yavapai counties and the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension.

This year’s event brings a star-studded cast of regional experts to the campus of Trinity Heights United Methodist Church in Flagstaff, headlined by keynote speakers Forrest and Tricia Clark-McDowell, bestselling authors of The Sanctuary Garden.

The McDowells, who will present The Garden as Sanctuary: A Place of Peace, Healing and Celebration, adapted the name of their 22-acre Cortesia nature sanctuary in Oregon from the old French cortese, “a deep sense of courtesy toward life.” Their innovative design principles inspire outdoor spaces which become true personal retreats. Tricia is a Master Gardener, artist and photographer. Forrest holds a PhD in counseling psychology, and is a writer and concert guitarist.

Also speaking is Jim Knopf, author of The Xeriscape Flower Gardener and Waterwise Landscaping. A professional landscape architect in Boulder, Colorado, Knopf has created numerous xeriscape gardens in the southwest and abroad.
Conference-goers will also choose from twenty-four seminars on topics that range from the practical to the inspirational, including hydroponics, healing gardens, and hardy roses. Whether your idea of gardening involves an Early Girl tomato plant in a pot on the patio, a permaculture meadow, or an old-fashioned tangle of barnyard perennials, there is something of interest for everyone.
Two special seminars will be given by Bill McDorman, president of Seeds Trust, Inc., and William Dunmire, author of Gardens of New Spain: How Mediterranean Plants and Foods Changed America. McDorman lived in Idaho and Montana before recently relocating to Cornville, Arizona. His company focuses on finding, testing, and producing seeds for high elevations. He is the author of Basic Seed Saving.

Dunmire is the former Chief of Interpretation for the National Park Service, Superintendent of Carlsbad Caverns and of Guadalupe Mountains National Park, and field biologist for The Nature Conservancy. He has traveled throughout Spain, Mexico, and the American southwest researching native plantways.

Along with this outstanding array of speakers and seminars, the conference will feature book signings, booths, exhibits, and a special pre-conference garden tour on Sunday afternoon, October 2.

The two-day registration of $80 ($90 after September 2) or one-day registration of $40 ($45 after September 2) includes lunch and snacks, tote bag loaded with garden gifts, conference notebook, and a chance at some tempting door prizes.

Looking to make your gardening experience more successful and more fun? Invest two days. Reserve your ticket now for the 2005 Arizona Highlands Garden Conference.
For a registration form and complete conference information, call the Coconino County Extension Office: (928) 774-1868, ext.17.
Or visit: www.cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/ahgc/conference2005.html.

By Julia Hastings
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Cooperative Extension

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:34 AM

The Importance of Being Botanical

When my daughter was in kindergarten, there were three ‘Sarahs’ in her class. Since there were only 25 students in the class, you can imagine how a common name like Sarah could cause some confusion. Common names can also create a muddle in the plant world. Use the name sage and you could be referring to any one of over a hundred different kinds of sage. For the Sarahs, add the last name and you avoid much of the confusion. To distinguish plants, we have botanical names.

Botanical names, also called scientific names, refer to one and only one plant species. This name is recognized worldwide and is based on an international naming system. A plant's botanical name consists of two parts called a binomial. The first name represents the genus and the second name is termed the specific epithet. Put these two names together and you know the precise species of plant. Usually, the botanical name is italicized. Any words after the binomial refer to a subset of the species, or the taxonomic author.

But many people would rather use common names because botanical names are hard to remember and even harder to pronounce. Botanical names are actually Latinized versions of words derived from Greek and Latin. However, since Latin isn’t a spoken language, wouldn’t it just be easier to use the common names?

Anyone who has worked at a nursery knows the value of botanical names. I spent several summers in nursery sales and I frequently had requests for bellflowers. As this is the common name for dozens of plants, the customer and I would play 20 questions while I tried to figure out which bellflower they really wanted. If they asked for Campanula rotundifolia, I would immediately know that they were interested in our diminutive native bellflower, the one with little round leaves and nodding, blue, bell-shaped flowers. By the way, other common names for this circumboreal species include harebell, bluebell of Scotland, bluebell bellflower, meadowbell, round-leaved bellflower, or just plain bluebell.

A common name can be used for several different plants in the same genus. Many common names are localized and meaningful only for a certain region. Toadflax in North Carolina refers to the little blue-flowered native better known as Linaria canadensis. In Arizona, mention toadflax and you will get the attention of the US Forest Service, the folks at the Arboretum, and Cooperative Extension because it is the common name for Linaria dalmatica, a noxious weed.

The botanical name of a plant will provide you with much information about plant relationships and it can give you clues to plant characteristics. Take the species Penstemon pinifolius, for example. The Penstemon part tells us that this plant is a member of the large penstemon genus (about 275 species) of perennials plants that is endemic to North America. While penstemons have varying cultural requirements, as a group, they are characterized by beautiful, tube-shaped flowers that are frequently pollinated by bees, moths, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

As a penstemon, we also know that this plant belongs to the Figwort or Snapdragon family, Scrophulariaceae, a group of plants characterized by showy flowers that includes the commonly named veronicas, snapdragons and foxgloves. The specific epithet pinifolius not only indicates the species, but it also perfectly describes the needle-like foliage (pini=pine-like and folius=foliage.) That's a lot of information from just two little words.

Common names may give you clues to plant characteristics, but they can just as easily lead you astray. An evening primrose isn't a primrose, a flowering maple isn't a maple, and an obedient plant is hardly obedient. A cabbage palm is neither a cabbage nor a palm; it is a lily. And a yellow flag is an iris but a snake’s head iris is not.

Pronunciation scares many of us away from even attempting the use of Latin names. Consider the tongue twister Helianthemum nummularium or sunrose. (I often mumble this name as quickly as possible when I try to pronounce it in a class.) Follow my lead and try to pronounce a new name as best you can by breaking the word into one syllable at a time and saying it as you would in English. Helianthemum nummularium easily breaks down into hee-lee-AN the-mum num-ew-LAH re-um, a mouthful in any language. The rules of classical Latin pronunciation will help though I can't claim to know them. What matters most is that you are attempting to indicate a specific plant. I’m happy there aren’t many Latin teachers in town to correct us.

There are many websites devoted to the pronunciation of plant names. One that is particularly useful is the site of 'Fine Gardening' magazine www.taunton.com/finegardening/index.asp. Not only can you view a pronunciation guide for each botanical name, but click on the name and you can listen to the audio pronunciation of the name as well.

My advice is to use those botanical names and if you can't remember the pronunciation of a plant name, try it anyway. I like to say both common and botanical names when I talk about plants. I am not being smug; I am letting you know exactly which plant I am referring to. And by repeating the names, I am reinforcing my knowledge of the plant name. It takes some practice but you too can become a master of botanical names.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and a Master Gardener.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:32 AM

Allergies and the Plants that Cause Them

Watery eyes, running nose, scratchy throat – these are just some of the symptoms that many of us experience during allergy season. The pollen from trees, shrubs and flowers is often to blame. For gardeners with allergies, spending the season indoors is not an option. What's a gardener to do?

For many plants, two-thirds of the pollen falls within 60 feet of the source so much of the pollen that aggravates allergy sufferers comes from the garden. While you can't control ponderosa pine pollen, sunflowers alongside the road, or what your neighbor grows, you can reduce pollen allergens in your garden by selecting and planting trees, shrubs, and flowers that don’t cause as many allergy problems.

How you react to plants often depends on how the plant is pollinated. Plants that are wind-pollinated often create the most problems as they produce vast quantities of pollen grains that travel in the air. Wind-pollinated plants can often be identified by their profusion of small, inconspicuous flowers.

Wind-pollinated trees with allergy causing potential include juniper, cottonwood, box elder, maple, ash, and many pines. In warmer climates, mulberry, olive, walnut and pecan are the main culprits. Shrubby and herbaceous plants, weeds and grasses can also contributor to our allergies. Ragweed and Kentucky bluegrass are two of the worst offenders though burning bush and chrysanthemum can also cause problems.

Insect-pollinated plants usually don’t cause as many allergies. These plants often have showy flowers with pollen that is heavy and sticky and not often airborne. Insect-pollinated fruit trees – apples, cherries, pears, plums, and crabapples – cause few allergy problems. Ornamental shrubs such as viburnum, pyracantha, and yucca also have low allergy potential.

There are many low-allergen herbaceous plants to choose from including coneflower, daffodil, tulip, geranium, iris, pansy, and petunia. Many insect-pollinated native plants make good choices for an allergy-free garden; columbine, penstemon, hardy geranium, butterfly weed and coral bell are just a few.

There are exceptions. Some insect-pollinated plants like Russian olive, privet and elderberry produce lots of allergy-inducing pollen while wind-pollinated spruce, fir and shrubby cinquefoil are considered to have a low allergen potential.

If you want to learn more about the allergy potential of other garden plants, check out "Allergy-Free Gardening” by Thomas Ogren. The author has ranked more than 3,000 garden plants for their allergy-potential and provides guidelines for what to plant – and what not to – for allergy sufferers.

People's sensitivity to certain plants can vary widely and allergy problems can be caused by many factors other than plant pollens. Serious allergy problems warrant a visit to your health care professional. But you can work to reduce plant allergies in your landscape. Consider replacing an existing pollen problem plant with a less allergenic selection. If removal is not an option, avoid working in the garden when the offending plant is in full bloom. And garden in the afternoon or evening when pollen counts are lowest. Keep high-allergy plants away from windows and doorways. Control the allergy-causing weeds in your garden. And plant a variety of plants to avoid a concentration of any one type of plant pollen.

A hard freeze will soon put an end to this allergy season. Until then, pass the Kleenex. Achoo!

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener program coordinator for Arizona Cooperative Extension Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:31 AM

Understanding Plant Hardiness Zones

One of the most important factors in selecting landscape plants is whether they will survive the climate in your area. Proper plant selection is often the key to gardening success. To assist gardener in plant selection, maps depicting hardiness zones and plant zone ratings that indicate adaptability have been developed.

The most widely recognized and used system to define hardiness zones is the USDA Hardiness Map initially developed in 1960 and recently revised. This map divides North America into 11 climate zones based on average minimum temperatures. The map starts with Zone 1, found in the interior of Alaska where minimum temperatures can go down to minus 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and, in increments of 10 degrees, extends to Zone 11, for the gardeners in Hawaii that never experience freezing temperatures. The data on which the USDA map is based were gathered over a period of 60 years.

The more recent 1990 map has subdivided these zones into 5-degree increments. The cooler part of a zone is noted as a 'b' and warmer zone area is given an 'a'. A look at the new map indicates that Flagstaff is in zone 5b. Zone 5b indicates that the average minimum temperature is between minus 10 and minus 15 degrees. You can view this map on line at www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ or check it out in any good, recent gardening book.

As the map is based on average minimum winter temperatures, some winters may be much colder or warmer than what’s indicated by the map. In recent years, rarely have we experienced temperatures below 0 degrees. However, prudent gardeners know to plan for extremes, particularly when planting long-lived trees or shrubs. Plants that are marginally hardy may succumb in a really cold winter.

To further complicate matters, Flagstaff includes several hardiness zones in or just outside the city limits. Our local microclimates can vary the zone from zone 3 to 6, depending on where you live. Neighborhoods at the base of Mt. Elden may be a solid zone 6 while a frosty zone 3 can occur in Baderville.

Features on your property can create microclimates that further modify the environment from the norm. A low, wet location may be a lot colder than a higher, dry one. Buildings and concrete are usually warmer than gardens or the forest floor. Sunny areas may bake while shaded spots remain quite cool. Gardeners can take advance of the variations when selecting and situating plants.

Minimum low temperature is just one factor that affects plant growth. Snow, rainfall, temperature fluctuations, wind, latitude, altitude, heat, and cold can all have an effect of the survival of a plant.

Recognizing that multiple climate factors influence plant hardiness, the Sunset Western Garden Book has developed a Western climate zone map. This map divides the Western United States into 24 climate zones based on latitude, elevation, the influence of the Pacific Ocean, the influence of the continental air mass, mountains and hills, and local terrain. Many western gardeners find that the Sunset zones are more useful than the USDA's, since they factor in not only winter minimum temperatures, but also summer highs, lengths of the growing season, humidity, and rainfall patterns to provide a more accurate picture of what will grow there. You can view the Sunset map at www.sunset.com/garden.

According to the Sunset map, Flagstaff rests on the edge of the coldest classification of zone 1 where the growing season is less than 100 days. Except for the higher elevations, most of Coconino County falls into zone 2, characterized by slightly warmer temperatures and a longer growing season. This subtle division makes a big difference in whether certain ornamental plants can be successfully grown.

The Sunset Western Garden Book lists Sunset zones for over 6,000 garden and landscape plants and has detailed descriptions of the 24 plant climate zones. It is an excellent resource for western gardeners.

Many catalogs, plant reference books, and nursery tags do not list Sunset zones and rely on USDA plant hardiness zones to indicate whether a plant is likely to survive in a location. You can cross-reference any plant in question with the Sunset zones. I always use both systems to help me determine whether a plant can be grown successfully.

As I write this, the USDA is in the process of creating a newer version of the hardiness zone map. This revision is due to the noticeably higher temperatures seen in the climate data collected from 1987 to 2001. A draft version of the map suggests that there will be a northward creep of many climate zones. If Flagstaff officially becomes zone 6, I'll let you know.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program coordinator for the Cooperative Extension in Coconino County and a Master Gardener.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:28 AM

A Highland Fling

“Undaunted,” “driven,” passionate,” these are not the themes of a seminar on writing romance fiction. They are, however, some of the themes that will appear in this year’s Arizona Highlands Garden Conference. Each year, the Master Gardeners of Gila, Coconino, and Yavapai Counties organize and present the Arizona Highlands Garden Conference (AHGC). The AHGC location rotates between the three counties and this year it will be held at the Cliff Castle Conference Center in Camp Verde on October 18 and 19. This is the fifth year of this wonderful conference and we will have three nationally recognized speaker/authors and several regional experts. These dedicated Master Gardener volunteers have assembled a first-rate conference.

The harsh challenges of gardening in northern Arizona bring together gardeners and experts who are truly inspired and dedicated to enjoying successful gardening the Arizona highlands. The conference will open on Monday October 18 with a keynote presentation on Plant Driven Design by Lauren Springer Ogden and Scott Ogden. Lauren Springer Ogden is a horticulturist and landscape designer of the new Water-Smart Garden at the Denver Botanic Gardens and author of two award winning books: Undaunted Garden and Passionate Gardening. Scott Ogden grew up in Dallas, Texas and studied geology before pursuing a career in horticulture and garden design. He is also a well-published author with Gardening Success with Difficult Soils: Limestone, Alkaline Clay, and Caliche, Garden Bulbs of the Southwest, and The Moonlit Garden to his credit.

The keynote speaker on Tuesday October 19 is by ornamental grass expert John Greenlee. The title of his talk is: Creative, Fragrant, Romantic Meadows and Natural Lawns. His book, The Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses, was published in 1992. Since then, John Greenlee has appeared on several television gardening shows and has designed public and private gardens throughout the United States including the Getty Museum, the Norton Simon Museum, the San Diego Wild Animal Park, and the savannahs at Walt Disney’s Animal Kingdom in Florida. He has also won several prestigious landscaping awards and owns a wholesale nursery with three locations in southern California.

Several other well-known regional speakers will also be presenting at the AHGC. Some of them include: Lindsay Schram, Organic Grower/Yavapai County Master Gardener; Barry Golden, Owner of Golden’s Iris Garden in Diamond Valley; Jack Kelly, Pima County Horticulture Agent; Dennis Swartzle, Mountain States Wholesale Nursery; Terry Mikel, Maricopa County Horticulture Agent; Dr. Curtis Smith, New Mexico State University Horticulturist and maker of the PBS Series Southwest Yard and Garden; and many others.

An added bonus this year is the pre-conference garden tour in the Village of Oak Creek.

The cost of the conference is $90 per person for both days if you register by September 27. Lunches are included with registration. Each attendee will receive a conference notebook filled with information and tote bag filled with seeds, catalogs, magazines, and other treasures. Several sponsors, including our own Flagstaff Native Plant & Seed, have made generous contributions of financial support and door prizes. Vendors and non-profit organizations will also have displays and items for sale.

The agenda, sponsors, vendors, and registration materials are available on Yavapai County Extension’s web site (cals.arizona.edu/yavapai/). Click on the Highlands Garden Conference link. Or call 928-774-1868 ext. 17 and a brochure and registration form will be mailed to you. And thanks go to Jeff Schalau, Yavapai County Extension Agent for providing us with his press release.

By Donna Reese
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:28 AM

Permacultlure is a Growing Way of LIfe

Wild ecosystems are "gardens" created by many species. Squirrels plant seeds. Fungi interweave themselves with tree roots to form hydroponic drip irrigation systems. Elk prune vegetation. Birds keep pest insects in check.

Permaculture design applies this ecological wisdom to turn cultivated gardens into healthy ecosystems. In a conventional garden, everything is planted in straight rows and different crops are kept separate from one another. Permaculture gardens look and function more like their wild counterparts.

Permaculture means “permanent agriculture” and “permanent culture” — permanent in the sense that nature is permanent, yet always evolving. Permaculture is an Australian import from the 1970s back-to-the-land movement. However, its design principles stretch back into the Stone Age. It wasn’t until the Green Revolution that synthetic fertilizers and pesticides appeared to make ecological knowledge unnecessary.

Here are a few permaculture principles to get you started:

Observation. Develop your ecological observation skills. Pay attention to the weather, how the wind blows through your yard, how the angle of the sun changes through the seasons, which wild plant species prefer which habitats. Notice where the snow melts first and last and how water flows though your yard.

The problem is the solution. Adapt your garden to the prevalent natural forces and harness them for useful purposes, rather than trying to fight against them.

Microclimates. Sun and wind, hills and valleys, precipitation and drought, topsoil and exposed bedrock, trees and wildfire combine to create different microclimates. Your yard may contain several microclimates. A sunny south-facing spot might be USDA Zone 4 or 5 while a shaded north-facing spot that accumulates cold air at night might be Zone 3 (cold air flows downhill like water.) Cool-season crops like lettuce and strawberries prefer a partially shaded microclimate, while warm season tomatoes and squash will thrive in a sunny protected spot. Fruit trees need good frost drainage to protect their blossoms.

Grow ecologically adapted crops. Many popular garden vegetables like tomatoes and basil need special protection in our climate. Permaculturalists prefer to grow species that don’t need such protection. In our climate that means choosing cool season, drought-tolerant crops. For example, our native barberry shrubs (Mahonia sp.) produce berries that make delicious juice and jam. Barberries are planted as a low-care, drought-tolerant landscape plant throughout Flagstaff, yet few people know that barberries are edible. “Weeds” such as amaranth greens, dandelions, lamb’s quarters and purslane provide an abundance of nutritious leafy greens for no work at all.

Guilds. In wild ecosystems, plants that prefer the same microclimate form cooperative “guilds” to help one another survive. Organic gardeners refer to guild creation as companion planting. The books "Carrots Love Tomatoes" by Louise Riotte, and "Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture" by Toby Hemenway explain how to create guilds in your garden.

Stacking and perennials. Wild ecosystems are spatially efficient. Plants of different sizes are stacked together into a dense, three-dimensional web. The web is anchored in place by perennial species. Permaculturalists create guilds of root vegetables, herbs, flowers, vines, shrubs and trees, with an emphasis on perennials rather than annuals.

Waste equals food. Healthy ecosystems are self-sufficient webs of mutually beneficial relationships. The waste of one organism becomes food or shelter for another. Each element in an ecosystem performs many functions. For example, a tree provides shade, shelter, nesting material, food, mulch and oxygen. Furthermore, each function is supported by many elements. For instance, most animals eat several kinds of food, so if one source disappears they won’t starve.

To make your garden more ecologically self-sufficient, replace purchased seeds, water, fertilizer and other products with products and services from the garden itself. For example, plant open-pollinated seeds and save the seeds for replanting. Compost food and garden waste to make your own fertilizer. Use Flagstaff’s plentiful rocks to build raised beds and to tuck around plants to keep them warmer at night (rocks turn sunlight into heat.) Capture rain and snowmelt by building terraced beds along slope contours and diverting roof runoff into the garden. Use mulch to preserve precious soil moisture (pine needles are one on-site resource.) Control pest insects by landscaping your yard to attract songbirds, lizards, snakes and spiders. For example, bluebirds eat grasshoppers. You can attract a nesting pair by putting up a bluebird house and providing a source of water and a little bit of open meadow. The flowers of herbs in the carrot family, such as parsley and cilantro, attract beneficial predator wasps.

To learn more, permaculture designer Josh Robinson will give a one-hour talk Sunday, May 22 at noon at Flagstaff Native Plant & Seed, 400 E. Butler Ave.

You can also join the Flagstaff Permaculture Yahoo! listserve at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/flagstaffpermaculture/. We hold monthly “permlucks” (potlucks) the first Sunday of the month at 2 p.m. at a different location each month. And visit www.permaculture.net for articles, web sites and book listings.

Lisa Rayner is the author of the book "Growing Food in the Southwest Mountains: A Permaculture Approach to Home Gardening Above 6,500 feet" and is a 1994 graduate of the Master Gardener program. You can reach Lisa at: lisa@flagteaparty.org.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:26 AM

A Noxious Metaphor

Several months ago, I made the comparison of expanding noxious weed populations to a biological wildfire. This was not meant to be taken literally. It was supposed to be a metaphor. Lesson learned - be careful what you say. Our wet winter created a flush of germination and growth of noxious and invasive weeds, and we are paying the price as evidenced by recent low-elevation wildfires, carried primarily by exotic weeds. Unfortunately, this part of the story is mostly absent from the media. It seems a little reparative education is necessary to set the message straight.

The vegetative component of our forests, deserts, and grasslands has been compromised. The natural areas of Arizona no longer possess the fresh-faced innocence of a pre-adolescent child. Fact is, our landscapes are more combustible than a sleep-deprived teenager. Above 5000 feet, we have cheatgrass, eager to ignite with the first moron’s flick of a cigarette. Lower in elevation, we have red brome, sister species to cheatgrass and equally hot-tempered. We see yearly evidence of this species’ disposition along the burned-out medians and lands adjacent to I-17 near Cordes Junction. Red brome is the catalyst for the recent Cave Creek Complex Fires. Farther south, the new kid on the block is buffelgrass, taking over landscapes at an exponential rate. This plant has turned sparsely vegetated desert terrain into a carpet of combustible fuel and has been implicated as the primary fuel in at least five major brush fires in the Tucson area in the last two months.

Not all of our low-land fire vectors are grasses. Populations of Saharan mustard have exploded state-wide, leaving thickets of desiccated biomass ripe for burning. The 55,000 acre Goldwater Fire near Ajo is the result of this recent transplant. It seems plausible to assume that an area that has not burned in more than 10,000 years may have undergone some sort of change. Unlike our ponderosa pine forest, southwest ecosystems below 3500 feet did not co-evolve with fire. Inevitably, fire causes lower elevation native plant communities to die out and allows exotics to thrive and to expand their range with each successive fire, creating a radically different landscape. The results are ecosystems composed of highly flammable monocultures, and wildlands and hiking trails laden with combustible grasses.

One only need look at our local highways, vacant lands, school properties, and pristine areas to see the impact of invasive and noxious weeds. Diffuse knapweed should no longer be under the radar for most local citizens. It also benefited from the wet year by advancing its ranks beyond the perimeter of disturbed lands. Scotch thistle, the ultimate invasive bad-boy, has been having its way with Picture Canyon and is surreptitiously spreading into many city and county locations. These two weeds, while not an immediate fire concern, are enveloping and altering landscapes in the same manner as wildfire. Fire-evolved habitat, scarred by non-catastrophic wildfire, typically resets as succession and the circle of life continue; but for landscapes infested with noxious weeds, the climax community can be altered indefinitely.

On the invasive species issue, it’s fair to say that we are well behind the eight-ball, but we have to give it our best shot. We are fighting back in Picture Canyon with county-employed CREC crews. And we are employing methods that seem unconventional and draw debate, but are in fact tried and true. One such technique is the use of biological control agents. Biological control in the United States has a record of safely managing invasive weeds for more than 100 years. Members of the San Francisco Peaks Weed Management Area recently conducted a release of a host-specific weevil in conjunction with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service. The target species, diffuse knapweed, is beyond any potential for local eradication, but could conceivably be controlled by this bug within five years. We look at this as a safe alternative to chemical applications of herbicide and more practical than manual removal.

Not that pulling weeds doesn’t have its benefits: angst alleviation, freedom from oppressive species, and wanton (yet specific) botanical genocide all number high on the list. When the monsoons arrive, take advantage of moist soil conditions and dig in. Aside from previously stated perks, it’s an investment in the ecological integrity of our community. The spread of noxious and invasive species is the cost that all of us pay for doing business on the planet earth, and without your efforts, that cost will most certainly increase.

By Wade Albrecht
Wade Albrecht is the Natural Resource Educator for U of A Cooperative Extension Coconino County and is the Coordinator for the San Francisco Peaks Weed Management Area.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:25 AM

Alternative to Kentucky Blue Grass

A Daily Sun article published on August 8th reported that the City of Flagstaff is offering rebates to homeowners who replace their traditional lawns with native plants or landscaping rock. This caught my attention for a couple of reasons. First, front yards covered with rock may look great in a desert environment such as Phoenix or even Sedona, but look unnatural and contrived in Flagstaff. Secondly, the expression “native plants” is so imprecise and difficult to define, it wasn’t clear to me what the City would consider an acceptable alternative to a Kentucky bluegrass lawn, which is clearly what they wish to discourage. So I decided to ask Adam Miller, Water Conservation Manager for the City of Flagstaff, the next time our paths crossed.

That day came last week at the Arizona Highlands Garden Conference. I bumped into Mr. Miller during a coffee break and asked him about the landscaping rebate program. I particularly wanted to know if lawns of native grasses were an acceptable alternative to bluegrass and would qualify for the rebates. He assured me they were completely acceptable and that the city had recently paid the rebate to a homeowner who used native grass in his new landscape. “We don’t want to see Flagstaff covered with gravel”, he said. Oh, thank goodness!

I personally prefer home landscapes that incorporate a variety of plants, including grasses, foliage plants, interesting shrubs, and trees, with rock and gravel used as elements in a naturalistic design. While Kentucky bluegrass looks very nice in such gardens, it does require quite a bit of supplemental irrigation in our climate – about 2 inches of water per week in the summer. It also requires a lot of maintenance – mowing, fertilizing, and weed and pest control. Why bother when there are so many delightful alternatives that require little or no supplemental irrigation, once established, no chemicals at all, and much less maintenance? Here are just a few kinds of grass that do well in Flagstaff:

Blue grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis). This is a low-growing bunch grass which is extremely drought tolerant, cold hardy, and well-adapted to poor soils. The grass blades are narrow and a lovely grey-green shade. It develops very decorative seed heads.

Buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides). Low-growing, durable, and tolerant of foot traffic, a buffalograss lawn is well-suited for turf areas. It spreads by runners, so quickly fills in bare spots. It’s a bright shade of green in summer and beige from fall through spring. It will do best in the warmer parts of town.

Turf-type tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea). Slow-growing (less mowing!), durable, and drought tolerant, this grass makes an attractive substitute for Kentucky bluegrass. It will require occasional reseeding to fill in bare patches, since it doesn’t spread on its own. This feature also makes it a good neighbor for flowerbeds, since it won’t invade and take over.

Seeds for these and many other native grasses are available at Flagstaff Native Plant & Seed and from Plants of the Southwest (www.plantsofthesouthwest.com). Native grass sod can also be ordered through local nurseries and landscapers, and several varieties can be ordered as plugs. So before you give up on grass in your home landscape, try one of these native varieties. You’ll discover as I did that you can have your lawn and conserve water too!

By Alice Monet
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:22 AM

How to Care for Young Mulit-stemmed Aspen

Multi-stemmed aspen have become very popular in the nursery business in the last 15 years. These plants have added appeal to the customer and added value for the seller. However, multi-stemmed plants will cause problems several years later if not cared for properly.

Multi-stemmed aspens will grow normally if the stems are at least 24” apart at planting. In most cases aspen are sold in 5 to 20 gallon containers with only enough space for one mature stem. So it is necessary for the stems to be thinned out to one every 24” of growing space. Thinning is best done after the newly planted tree becomes well established, one to two years after planting.

If the stems are not thinned out they will eventually begin to compete with each other for space, light, and nutrients. The competition for space is probably the biggest problem. When two stems butt up against each other there becomes a zone of included bark and the area will eventually become weak and will be prone to breakage or disease organisms will become established in the zone causing wood rot to occur.

Almost always multi-stemmed aspens are misshaped because the two or more plants are competing for light. There will be a lack of branches on the side facing the other stem(s). This is not only unsightly but will also cause the stem to be out of balance with an excessive amount of weight on the side with good branch growth.

Sufficient amounts of nutrients may become lacking because of the density of the multiple plants in the growing space. Extra water and fertilizer may need to be applied to keep the plants healthy.

To avoid these problems simply remove the weak, misshaped, or damaged stems from the clump at ground level one to two years after planting. If the extra stems are removed within the first two years after planting they will be easy to cut out and will create a small wound that will heal quickly. After cutting it is not necessary to treat the wound with pruning sealants.

Another problem encountered with multi-stemmed trees is when staking. Each stem should be staked separately. When there are two, three or four stems this can present a challenge because the stems should not be allowed to rub on each other, or against the ties or stakes. Stems that rub together or against the staking material will cause wounds on the bark of the trees. Other basic staking rules are: cut the stakes so they are lower than the canopy of the tree, place the ties as low as possible on the stem, and leave the tree staked for as little time as possible, generally less than 12 months.

Aspens can be a beautiful addition in our landscapes if cared for properly. For more information on caring for aspen and other trees refer to the University of Arizona Forest Health website at: http://cals.arizona.edu/extension/fh/

Tom DeGomez is the Forest Health Specialist for the University of Arizona, Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:11 AM

January 10, 2006

Cob Earth Oven Workshops

Locations needed for cob earth oven workshops in Flagstaff in 2006

Last July, Sasha Rabin, an instructor with Seven Generations Natural Builders, located in Taylor, Ariz., led a workshop to build a cob earth oven at the Southside Community Garden. Sasha would like to hold more such workshops in Flagstaff this spring, summer and fall. She would prefer to hold workshops at locations open to the public, such as community gardens, schools, churches, nonprofits and community centers. However, she may also be willing to hold workshops in people�s backyards.

You can read about Sasha�s workshops at www.sgnb.com/intro.php.

Please e-mail Sasha directly with queries at sasha_rabin@yahoo.com.

Lisa Rayner

Posted by maxmaddy at 7:32 PM

Having Your Way with Spring Bulbs

Each year, as the days start getting shorter, and my late summer garden begins to sag, I remind myself that it’s just about time to plant bulbs for spring. But by the time I’ve browsed the colorful bulb catalogs that arrive in the mail, or find time to visit the garden center to see what’s new and enticing, it’s often too late to plant. This year, the bulbs I ordered arrived in early November “at the perfect time for planting in your region”, as the catalogs always promise. Well, it may have been perfect somewhere in northern Arizona, but in Flagstaff we’d already had 15 inches of snow and the ground was cold and soggy. What’s a gardener to do?

One answer is just to plant those bulbs anyway. If they are healthy and undamaged and you can work the ground, they’ll do just fine. The notable exception is daffodils, which need to grow some fresh roots before the ground freezes. Many bulbs are planted 6 to 8 inches deep and the ground doesn’t usually freeze to that depth until after the first of the year. So shovel the snow off your garden, pry up your soil, dig a nice deep hole, and tuck those bulbs in for the winter.

Another approach is to plant the bulbs in containers for setting out in the garden. The good part about this is that no digging is required. At the bottom of a container, on top of a few inches of good potting soil, plant a handful of tulip bulbs. Add a layer of soil, tamp gently and place some daffodils or hyacinths between the tulips. Cover with even more soil. Water well, top off with a thick layer of mulch, and set the container out in your garden. Come spring, those bulbs will send up leaves and bloom just as they would have in a garden bed, but with much less effort from you.

Yet another strategy, which is also a lot of fun, is to bring those bulbs indoors and force them to bloom early. Forcing bulbs is easy, requires no special equipment, and is great entertainment for the kids in the family. Having a big showy pot of bulbs blooming in your living room in March, when all the world is white and frozen outdoors, will nourish your gardener’s soul, make springtime seem a little closer, and just possibly impress your teenagers (but I can’t promise this last bit.)

Bulbs may be divided into two categories: hardy bulbs that require chilling and tender bulbs that do not. Tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, iris, and grape hyacinth are in the first group. These generally require about 15 weeks, or 3 months, at temperatures between 35-48oF. Plant the bulbs close together in a shallow pot, using a lightweight potting soil. You want a mixture that provides good drainage and support for the plants as they grow. Water the bulbs and place in a cold (but not freezing) location where they can chill quietly for 3 months. Possibilities include a refrigerator vegetable drawer, a cold attic or garage, a cold frame under a thick layer of mulch, or even a shallow trench in the garden, covered with plenty of pine straw, leaves, or hay. If you put them in your fridge, encase the pots in plastic bags and punch a few holes for ventilation.

After the chilling time has elapsed (end of February if you plant now), bring the pots out into the light, in a cool spot where the temperature hovers around 50-60oF. This might be on a workbench in the garage, on an unheated sun porch, or in a cold frame. After about a week, shoots and leaves will begin to appear. Then the pots can be moved to a warmer room, where you can enjoy watching them grow and send up flower buds. Most will bloom within 2 to 3 weeks of being brought indoors.

If this seems like more fuss than fun, consider forcing tender bulbs instead. There are two popular species in this category: paperwhite narcissus and amaryllis. Paperwhites are so easy to “force” it hardly seems like forcing. Simply plant the bulbs in a shallow container. Use regular potting soil or just a layer of pebbles. Since bulbs contain all the nutrients they need, they only require a medium that will hold them steady as they grow. Water so the base of the bulbs is covered and place in a cool, dark room for a few weeks so roots will develop. Then move the pot into a sunny location and stand back. Once the paperwhites send up shoots, they grow amazingly fast. Within 3 to 5 weeks from planting, the tall, elegant stalks will be topped with clusters of extremely fragrant white blossoms.

Amaryllis is also very easy, and spectacular when in bloom. Plant in a pot just 1 to 2 inches wider than the bulb, with the top half of the bulb exposed. Water well, but then let the soil dry out completely. Once the flower stalk appears, you should water more often, but only if the surface of the soil is dry. Place the plant in a warm sunny location until the flowers are almost ready to open. Then move to a spot with indirect light. Amaryllis will bloom 6 to 8 weeks after planting. If you’d like one to decorate your table for Christmas dinner, plant it now!

So it’s not too late to plant those spring-blooming bulbs. Just don’t wait much longer!

By Alice Monet
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:37 PM

Good Gardens Require Working Your Soil

Good Gardens Require Working Your Soil
by Hattie Braun
Master Gardener Program Coordinator

Who coined the phase "two rocks for every dirt"? It could well be any gardener in Flagstaff. Most of us know that a good garden soil is the foundation for successful gardening. But what do you do if you have rock-like soil, lots of really tiny rocks (i.e. cinders), or hardly any soil at all?

My husband and I started our gardening adventure here 12 years ago with a pickax and lots of sore muscles, and we dug up many, many rocks. What soil remained was a heavy clay that was incredibly sticky when wet and rock-hard when dry. After several failed planting ventures, we learned to work with our local soil. We have three soil improvement approaches depending on what is to be planted and how tough the soil problem is: we loosened the heavy clay, we amended it with organic matter, or we covered the clay with purchased topsoil.

Many of our native plants prefer our local soils that are often mineral-rich but nitrogen-poor and low in organic matter. Unfortunately, there is nothing native about house construction and more likely than not, the soil around you property is compacted, excluding all plant life but the toughest of weeds. This soil needs to be brought back to life by working the soil to loosen it up. The addition of organic mulches will help to open up the soil and retain the new loose structure but beware. Excessive amounts of organic matter may cause native plants to grow too quickly due to the richness of the soil.

Cultivated plants have different soil needs and prefer a soil that holds water but drains freely, contains plenty of nutrients, and is loose enough to be dug in without a lot of effort. Adding organic amendments can change a heavy clay soil like mine, or those fast draining cindery soils found on the eastside of town, to a rich, loose, loamy, and nurturing medium for plant growth. Organic matter can be almost anything that was once alive but now decomposed. My favorite organic amendments are homemade compost, really old horse manure, and organic mulch products. You can work in up to 30% organic material of the total garden bed.

If you are cursed with particularly difficult soils or you are just left with the adobe-like leftovers from the excavation of your house, the best solution is to bring in topsoil and build your garden beds on top of your existing soil. A big problem here is when you only lay down topsoil a couple of inches deep. This often limits the development of an effective root system. You will also create an interface between the two soils, which can detrimentally affect the way water moves through the soil.

So consider the following recipe from Yavapai County cooperative extension for adding topsoil to your site. Before adding soil, remove as many of the rocks and as much debris as possible. (Get out your pickax!) Add one to two inches of good topsoil and work it into the existing soil by hand or till if possible. Next, add enough new soil to the grade you want. Since the topsoil you are adding is likely low in organic matter, add your organic amendments last and mix.

For the most severe, rocky situations, creativity may be the key to gardening success. Think about using the large stone formations as landscape features and develop rock gardens around these outcroppings. You can improve the soil in the areas in and around the rocks to create little planting pockets.

Developing a good garden soil does not happen overnight. Soil building may seem like a monumental effort, but is it worth it? You bet. Over the course of eight years, we successfully developed several perennials plantings, an area for native plants, a sheep fescue lawn and a blue grama grass lawn, and a vegetable garden, all by working our clay to create the ideal soils for each gardening situation. We have since moved to a new home and need to begin our gardening adventure all over again. It’s time once again to get out the pickax.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and a Master Gardener.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:34 PM

Preparing the Garden for Winter - Tips for a safe winter and a happy spring

When autumn nights start to get cold, it’s time to prepare your garden for winter. Winterizing not only makes your garden look better during the cold weather months, but will make for easier work in the spring and will protect less hardy plants from the cold. While it’s best to start putting your garden to bed in October, better late than never is.

Winterizing your landscape plants is just as important as winterizing your car. Those bright, sunny days of winter may be a welcome sight to us humans, but they can spell trouble for some landscape plants. Direct sunshine on young thin-barked trees warms the bark considerably. But when the sun goes down, air temperatures drop rapidly, and that can result in the tree's bark splitting. Other types of winter injury are also common, including breakage from heavy snow and ice, severe drying and animal feeding damage. However, you can help protect your plants by properly preparing them for the winter season.

Many of us gardeners have mixed feelings about this time of year: sad to see another garden year draw to a close, but at the same time relieved to get a break from the chores of weeding, watering, pruning and more weeding. But before you hibernate, there are still a few more chores to take care of outdoors.

It's amazing how cluttered a garden can look this time of year. Flowers are spent. Stalks are brown. Stems are bare, and leaves are falling everywhere. Gardens are closing up now, and it's time to get ready for winter. And this year it could be sooner than usual.

Winter garden clean-up: Start your clean-up by removing weeds and spent annuals from your beds. For shrubs and trees, remove diseased leaves, but pruning is not recommended in the fall as it may stimulate new growth just as the harsh winter is bearing down. Non-hardy bulbs, such as cannas, dahlias, and gladiolus, should be removed from the ground. Let the bulbs dry out in the sun for a few hours before storing them in a cool, dry place for the winter, such as a garage, attic, or basement.

Taking a Look

With leaves and flowers gone, autumn presents us with a skeletal garden. Are there bare spots that need some attention? If so, now is a good time to plant perennials. Planted in the fall, they have a chance to get their roots going and come spring that bare spot is teeming with green. Or maybe that bare spot is perfect for a birdbath or some whimsical statue.

Preparing for Winter

Gardeners living in colder areas should be winterizing now—preparing gardens for cold temperatures, heavy snows and drying winds. Following are some simple guidelines for wrapping up this season's garden.
Bring houseplants inside that have summered in the garden or patio. Repot any that have outgrown their containers.
Drain garden pools and birdbaths if you don't keep a heater in them. Remove water plants; seal root ball in garbage bag and store in a cool garage. Also, drain and store garden hoses.

Winter Mulch: this is used to enhance appearance, conserve moisture and maintain warm soil temperatures longer in the fall to allow for increased root growth. It also reduces frost heave and delays early spring growth that could be damaged by late spring freezes.

Winter mulch isn't necessary for all garden plants, but it can mean survival for some less hardy plants. Winter mulch has a different purpose than summer mulch. The main benefits of winter cover are to protect against wide temperature fluctuations in the soil and to prevent extreme cold temperatures from harming plants.

Soil tends to heave when subjected to wide temperature changes, pushing plant roots up out of the ground. Heaving is most harmful to relatively shallow-rooted plants, such as strawberries and newly planted specimens of any kind that have not yet had a chance to develop solid footing. Winter mulch also prevents extreme cold damage to above-ground plant parts.

In most cases, 2 to 4 inches of mulch, such as straw, pine needles, hay or bark chips, give adequate protection. For some plants, such as roses, more elaborate protection is needed.
Timing is critical when applying winter mulch. It's best to wait until after temperatures are consistently below freezing to apply the mulch. Applying too early can smother the plant and encourage disease development.

Winterizing Your Shrubs and Trees

Much of our suburban landscape is trees and shrubs. Fall is a great time to have your tree person come over to look at the topside of the landscape; the leaves are off and all is revealed, including any dying or diseased wood that should be removed. Sure, it’s one more thing, but when that big old branch drops and snaps your prized Chinese tree peony in half you’ll wish you’d done it. Limbing up our trees lightens the shade some the next season as well, so think about places in the garden that would benefit from that (If you don’t do it at all the shade just gets heavier year after year…).

Another key point to winterizing is to look to those evergreen plants that make up so much of the American landscape. Wind can dehydrate these perpetually verdant types and send them into permanent dormancy, so we should protect them somehow. The old school method is to hammer in three or four stakes around the plant and then take a few turns with a roll of burlap to make a windscreen. Not too pretty but very effective, especially if you stuff the top of the screen with straw or pine boughs.

The new method is to spray your plants with an anti-desiccant like Wilt-Pruf, creating a waxy coating on the leaves and needles to seal in the moisture. These sprays work great while they’re on, but it’s my experience that they usually need reapplying right around the time the nastiest storms of January and February are hitting, so remember to stock up for that second application (and don’t forget the mittens, scarf, boots…)

Multistemmed shrubs seem to be particularly prone to damage from heavy snow and ice loads. The intense weight of snow and ice bends branches to the ground, breaking the bark and cutting off circulation of the food manufactured by the leaves to the roots. Starving roots eventually die, which leaves the tops without a supply of water, and eventually the whole plant will die. The process could take several years.

To prevent damage from heavy loads, support multistemmed plants by bundling the stems together using burlap, canvas or chicken wire. Simply binding stems together with cord will do in a pinch. Be sure to carefully remove heavy snow as soon as possible, but don't try to remove ice. More damage to the bark probably will occur than if the ice is allowed to melt on its own.

Winter garden clean-up

Start your clean-up by removing weeds and spent annuals from your beds. For shrubs and trees, remove diseased leaves, but pruning is not recommended in the fall as it may stimulate new growth just as the harsh winter is bearing down. Non-hardy bulbs, such as cannas, dahlias, and gladiolus, should be removed from the ground. Let the bulbs dry out in the sun for a few hours before storing them in a cool, dry place for the winter, such as a garage, attic, or basement.

Finally, if you don’t already have a compost bin, I urge you to consider starting one at this time. You can throw your cuttings as well as dried leaves in your compost bin, which will break down into a nutrient-rich compost for next season. Don’t throw weeds or diseased cuttings into your compost, however, as this will only multiply these problems down the road.

I asked award winning gardener and Master Gardener Molly Larsen for some advice.

Watering: Watering your garden thoroughly before the ground freezes is an important garden task before. Happily, recent rains and snow have taken care of this job. Making sure the plants have a sufficient supply of soil moisture before the ground freezes will help create healthier specimens to fight the winter battle.

Shut off irrigation systems: Temperatures below 28) can wreck havoc on your irrigation system. Also, don’t forget to disconnect your hoses from you hose bibs.

Even with snow, winter can be very dry and harsh for many trees and shrubs, such as evergreens and rhododendrons, so it’s best to provide them with a large supply of moisture before the extreme winter weather arrives. Deep soakings up until the soil freezes should be continued every 3-4 weeks.

Water thoroughly every seven to 10 days if fall rains are not sufficient. Shading susceptible plants from winter sun and wind also can be helpful. Burlap can be fastened to stakes, or a section of snow fencing should be adequate. Plant highly susceptible plants, such as rhododendrons, on the north side of the house or a hedge to avoid strong winter sun.

Cutting Back Perennials: Cut down perennials except shrubs and grasses – easy than in the spring when things start growing – pest control. Many perennials should be cut back to about 6 to 8 inches above the ground. A word of caution, however, regarding cutting back: Some perennials actually look quite attractive during the winter. If you’re not sure, you might want to leave them be and see if you like the way they look in your garden over the winter. Additionally, seed heads of some perennials (such as Rudbeckia (Black-Eyed Susan), Echinacea, Achillea, and Buddleia) are quite attractive and provide food for birds during the winter. Evergreen and alpine perennials (such as Artemisia, Dianthus, Heliantheum, and Heuchera) should also not be cut-back in the fall. Many perennials, however, look tired and messy during the cold weather months, so you’ll want to cut them back in the fall to keep your garden looking tidy and to avoid extra work in the spring. Prime examples of perennials to cut back are Alchemilla, Campanula, Coreopsis, Delphinium, Geranium, Hosta, and Veronica.

Fall Clean-up: After a hard freeze, perennials and deciduous trees typically drop their leaves. These should be cleaned up if you've had insect problems.
Don't be too hasty in cutting off the stems of perennials and shrubs. Many plants over-winter do more successfully with stems left intact. They provide energy reserves for the root system and also catch blowing snow that helps insulate a plant. Wait until spring to cut back.

Mulch: Add a blanket of mulch to roses and tender perennials. Molly used pine needles on her beds but any organic mulch will do such as. The key is to mulch after the ground is frozen.

Cleaning and Storing Tools: Once your garden cleanup is done, turn your attention to the care to your tools. Clean, oil, and sharpen your tools, then store them in a dry place for the winter. Oil wooden handles to keep them from drying out. Drain garden hoses and store them coiled in a sheltered place where they won’t freeze and crack. This little bit of extra work will make you gardening efforts in the spring.

Clean garden tools so they will be ready for next season. There is nothing like starting out with clean trowels. A good solution is 3 parts sand to 1 part oil; the sand cleans, the oil prevents rust.

Install simple windbreaks: to protect new plantings from winter weather. Anything that encourages snow accumulation will help provide excellent protection against low temperature or drying winds.

All plants, but especially evergreens, are susceptible to drying out over winter. The above-ground parts, such as twigs and evergreen leaves, are very much alive and are continuously losing water through a process called transpiration. Once the ground is frozen, the plant's roots are not able to take up water to replace that which is lost through the tops. The result is drying leaves, buds and twigs. Sunny, windy conditions cause water to be lost from the tops more rapidly, further aggravating the situation. Broad-leaved evergreens are particularly susceptible since they have a greater leaf surface to lose water from.

Pruning: Hold off on pruning as this task is best done in late winter or early spring. You can start pruning when trees go dormant and lose their leaves. Do not prune evergreens or spring-flowering shrubs during the fall.
Tasks done during the fall help your garden come back healthier and happier next spring.

Evaluate your garden design

Before you start your preparations, take a moment to review what worked and did not work in your garden over the past season. Fall is an ideal time to move plants (or remove plants) if you feel that they are not working in their current location. Fall is also a great time to plant bulbs, as well as plant bare-root shrubs and trees. It’s a good time, too, for dividing perennials. Division not only maintains the health of your perennials, but it's also an easy way to propagate your plants so that you’ll have more coverage next season.

Finally, take a look around to see if your garden is lacking in fall blooms. If so, you may want to plan on planting some late flowering plants in the spring, such as Rudbeckia (Black-Eyed Susan), Aster Novi-Belgii, Anemone Japonica, Sedum spectabile. Hydrangea paniculata also provides nice color in the fall, but you don’t have to wait until next spring to plant them. Many hardier shrubs like panicle hydrangea are perfectly happy with a late planting and will use the extra winter to build up a bigger root system; it’s like getting almost another year into your plant.
While this applies to many plants, not all will appreciate that head start. Panicle hydrangeas are fine, but their big leaved cousins, H. macrophylla are not going to do well over that first winter if you’re popping them in around October. I’d wait until spring to plant them and any other plant that has the rep for being a touch tender (You know, I'd even wait until spring with hybrid tea roses, softer perennials, even azaleas and rhodies in those hardest hit areas). My rule of thumb is if it’s a plant that everyone says, “You can’t kill that thing”, it’s o.k. to plant it. If even one person says “I had some of those but I lost them that last bad winter”, let them go until spring.
Of course, if you choose to ignore winter preparations, the world will not come to an end, but you risk losing some of your less hardy or younger plants to severe cold, and also face a more daunting garden preparation chore in the spring. It's well worth spending some extra time in your garden on a crisp autumn day to snugly tuck-in your garden in before winter takes hold.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Program coordinator for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:32 PM

Shedding Light on Poinsettias

With its showy leaves in holiday colors of red and green, and an endearing habit of looking fabulous for months on end while requiring no special care, is it any wonder that poinsettias are the best selling potted plant in the world? This showy native of southern Mexico and Central America can grow to heights of nearly 10 feet in its natural setting, where centuries ago it was valued by the Aztecs for treating fevers and for making dye.

The plants were introduced to this country by Joel Poinsett, who served as our first ambassador to Mexico from 1825 to 1829. The earliest varieties bore bright red bracts on bare stems, but in 1923 cultivars were introduced that kept their green leaves while in bloom. Before long, new colors began to appear on the market, and double varieties were introduced in the 1930s. Nowadays, all the cultivated varieties of poinsettias are hybrids, developed not only for superior color and long-lasting bloom, but also well-adapted to indoor growing conditions. These sophisticated darlings of seasonal displays hardly acknowledge their humble origins.

Poinsettias do have some basic requirements, which, if met, will prolong their attractive appearance, and possibly even encourage them to rebloom the following winter. These requirements include a humid environment, warm (but not hot) days and cool (but not chilly) nights, bright (but not direct) sunlight, and excellent drainage. The humidity in a typical Flagstaff home is actually adequate for these plants, but an occasionally misting may be helpful.

The ideal daytime temperature is about 67˚ F, while at night the plants are more comfortable around 55˚. Our thermostat is programmed to warm the house to 70˚ in the morning, when we’re getting ready for work and school, but drops to 50˚ during the day and at night. Sunlight tends to keep the house warm most days, but at night the inside temperature drops quite a bit – just what the poinsettia ordered! While the plants appreciate cool nighttime temperatures, they do not respond well to drafts. So keep your poinsettias away from chilly windows or doors opening directly to the outside.

We keep nearly all of our houseplants in the living room, which has large windows in the north and south walls and skylights facing east. This is the brightest room in the house and seems to meet the needs of any poinsettias that happen to wander in.

The most critical requirement for poinsettias is excellent drainage. Nothing will kill a poinsettia faster than waterlogged soil. Avoiding this tragic ending couldn’t be easier. Simply remove the plant from its decorative plastic or foil basket as soon as you bring it home and set it in a plastic plant saucer or tray. Water only when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch. Discard any excess water that drains into the saucer.

Maintained in this way, your Christmas poinsettias will continue to bloom attractively well into January, perhaps even a few weeks longer. But eventually the plant will begin to go dormant. The color will fade and leaves may begin to drop.

If you got your plants just to brighten up your home for the holidays, it may be time to pitch them out and start over next year with fresh plants. But if you are naturally thrifty, hate to give up on any plant that shows the slightest sign of life, and enjoy a horticultural challenge – in other words, an incurable gardener – now is the time to pull on your gloves and get out your pruning shears.

The first step is to prune the plants to about 8 inches in height, taking care to leave a leaf or two on each branch. (The cuttings can be used to propagate new plants.) During dormancy, the poinsettia will not need any fertilizer and very little water. Allow the top 2 inches of soil to become dry between waterings. Towards the end of April, the plants will begin showing signs of new growth. At this point, you can begin watering more often, using a half-strength solution of ordinary houseplant food every third time. This is also a good time to repot, to give the plant fresh soil and the roots more room to grow. Once the nighttime temperatures outdoors are reliably above 50˚, you can even move the plant outside to your garden. But keep an eye on the weather forecast. The wiser Flagstaff gardener knows the temperature can dip dramatically at most any time of year. Pinch back the branches a couple of inches in the middle of July to encourage the plants to develop denser, bushier growth.

Now for the tricky part: starting around the end of September, you have to trick the plant into thinking the days have become much shorter. The plant must be kept in total darkness for 14 hours per day, every day, between now and mid-November. During the other 10 hours of the day, it will require bright sunlight and warm temperatures. This can be accomplished by covering the plant with a cardboard box every evening, and removing the box 14 hours later, or by moving it to a completely dark closet or spare room. Take care that no stray light reaches the plant during its dark time. Any way you look at this, it’s a lot of work and requires real determination. But when the colorful bracts begin to develop, you are home free. Bring the plant out into the light and enjoy the reward of your efforts. They are richly deserved!

By Alice Monet
The author is a volunteer trained through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:29 PM

Fall Division of Perennials

I whispered tenderly to my plants “this will hurt me more than it will hurt you and, come next spring, you will thank me.” I was preparing to hard-heartedly hack them into pieces. Yes, it is that time of year when we take an inventory of our perennials. For those that are growing woody in the center or are not flowering as often as they once did or are just crowding their neighbors, it is probably time to divide and replant.

To ready your plants for division, water them a day or two ahead of time. Plants may be damp enough from our recent monsoon rains. Also, prepare the site you are moving the new divisions to before you lift the parent plant. Trim stems and foliage back to six inches to make handling them easier. If you are planning on giving some divisions away, have pots or buckets of moist soil on hand for short-term keeping. Have a shady spot ready to hold new divisions.

Use a sharp pointed shovel, shade or trowel to cut around the mother plant, or loosen the soil with a spading fork. Take the plant out of the ground, keeping as much of the root system and soil intact as possible. If the root ball is too large for this technique, you may need to slice the entire plant as if you were cutting a pie - one section at a time. Then move the entire section or root ball into a shady area and examine the root system.

Plants with a spreading root system have roots that look matted and slender. You can sometimes simply pull these roots apart by hand. Plants that grow in this manner include coneflowers, beebalm, bellflower, lamb’s ears, coreopsis, and yarrow. If the roots are thickly intermeshed, you may have to tease them apart using two spading forks. Plunge the forks back-to-back into clump and press the handles together until the clump separates into two parts. You can then divide each part into smaller sections. Discard any small, weak, or woody divisions.

For clumping, fleshy root systems such as astilbes, hostas, and daylilies, you should cut through the fleshy crowns with a sharp knife. Retain at least one developing eye or bud in each division. If you want larger, thicker plants keep several eyes per division. Ornamental grasses have clumping root systems as well but it is best to wait until spring to divide them.

Prune away any dead or damaged tissue and keep the divisions moist at all times. Replant divisions at the same depth as they were originally planted, firm the soil and water well. And mulch heavily. Apply a loose and open mulch such as pine needles (no, they won’t acidify our well-buffered, neutral soil) or straw in the fall. This will help protect the plants against shallow freezing and frost heaving.

Not all perennials benefit from division in the fall. A good rule of thumb is to divide perennials opposite their season of bloom; divide fall-bloomers in the spring and spring- and summer-bloomers in the fall. Dividing the plant when it is not flowering allows the energy produced to be directed to root and foliage growth.

Here's another cautionary note: there are some plants that resent being divided no matter what the time of year. This group includes butterfly weed, euphorbias, oriental poppies, baby’s breath, columbines, bleeding heart, lupine, and monkshood. Also, plants such as lavender cotton, perennial candytuft, and many artemisias are actually small woody sub-shrubs and should not be divided. These plants may have rooted branches that you can trim off and replanted as if they were divisions.

Fall is a wonderful time to work in the garden and your extra effort will be rewarded with beautiful blooms next spring and summer. Plus, dividing perennials gives you plenty of plants to share with friends and neighbors.

By Terra Crampton
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener and Master Naturalist programs and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:25 PM

The Pros and Cons of Pine Needle Mulch

What to you do with your pine needles? Do you rake them and bag them? Do you recycle them back into your garden? Or do you just ignore them and hope they will eventually blow away? Depending on who you are, you either cherish this renewable resource, consider it garden waste or recognize the potential hazards.

Pine needles have both benefits and risks for the home garden. As organic mulch, pine needles are excellent. They help insulate and moderate soil temperatures, as well as provide excellent moisture retention and are great for weed control. And they are free!

But the hazards of pine needles may outweigh the benefits. Dry pine needles are flammable. In the arid conditions of the southwest, any dry material left on your property may pose a fire hazard. Is there a compromise for gardeners who want to use needles in their yards and not send them to the landfill? There is for gardeners that carefully manage how they use needles on their property.

I asked Paul Summerfelt from the Flagstaff Fire Department for some advice on the use of pine needles as mulch. For safety’s sake, he recommends that if you have a choice use gravel or bark for mulch rather than pine needles. If you do choose to use needles as mulch, Summerfelt advices that you use them at a depth of ½” or less. You will want to have a barrier between your plantings and home so that fire can’t be carried toward your house. And needle mulch should be used only on isolated beds and not used as a continuous cover.

For greater fire protection, create a defensible space around your house. This means raking up and discarding all needles next to your home and deck. And keep needles from piling up on hardscape surfaces; leaving needles on sidewalks or drives provides an avenue for fire.

For those of us who want to recycle pine needles back in our landscapes, I have a few other common sense suggestions. Consider using needles as mulch on your vegetable garden. Because this type of garden is kept fairly moist, is often located away from the house and consists of plant material that is not particularly flammable, fire danger is greatly minimized. And contrary to popular belief, pine needles will not significantly acidify your soil. Most of our native soils are well-buffered so any acid from the needles will be neutralized.

Many gardeners, including myself, like to use pine needles on paths to control dirt. On any frequently traveled path, needles break down into minuscule pieces in a matter of weeks and over time will form a path of soft duff. The duff is still flammable so common sense directs using needles on paths away from the house and flammable vegetation.

Pine needle mulch can be applied in November when the risk of fire is reduced compared to drier, windier months. This treatment will provide plants with much-needed protection from frost heaving that can damage plants. Removal in the spring is the key as drying spring winds can reduce needles to tinder. A spring top-dressing of compost can then be applied to help retain moisture in the soil and give plants a boast of nutrients.

You may want to consider piling needles in an out of the way place for a late summer application on your perennial beds. Not only is the fire risk reduced once the monsoons come but the needles will help conserve soil moisture.

Some gardeners like to use shredded needles as mulch under trees and shrubs. As a precaution, do not use needles under plants that are highly flammable. And carefully consider the current environmental conditions when applying needle mulch. In 2002, the moisture content of our ponderosa pines was so low that it only took the carelessness of a few people to create fires that devastated hundreds of thousands of acres. During extreme drought, raking up all combustible materials may be the wisest thing to do.

The original goal of this column was to tout all the virtues and uses of pine needle mulch but a search into the topic revealed both risks and benefits. Make informed decisions about the use of pine needles in your landscape. For more information, or to schedule an assessment of the fire hazards on your property, call Flagstaff Fire Administration at 779-7688. Landscaping fire hazards are cause for concern so we will address firewise landscaping in next week's column. Until then, you can access more information on the web at ag.arizona.edu/firewise or stop by the county extension office at 2304 N. 3rd Street. We have brochures on the subject.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:22 PM

Native Shrubs for Autumn Color

Native Shrubs for Autumn Color
by Hattie Braun
Master Gardener Program Coordinator

I am becoming a hazard as I drive. The roadsides and forests are dotted with head-turning patches of brilliant fall color and my eyes can’t stay on the road. I can identify aspens at a glance, but what other plants make up these splashes of color? Wisely, I stop the car and get out to investigate. It comes as no surprise; the culprits for my distraction are native shrubs.

Ablaze with autumn hues, native shrubs are striking in their natural habitat. And these plants will also look stunting in the home garden. In addition to fall color, many native shrubs have wonderful ornamental qualities that make them excellent choices for landscaping. And if that weren't reason enough for growing them, as natives, these plants are well adapted to handle our climate, soils, and environmental conditions, often require less water and fertilizer than non-natives, and benefit a wide variety of wildlife. Here are seven shrubs that are great for growing at home.

One of the showiest shrubs this time of year is the extremely drought tolerant three-leaf sumac (Rhus trilobata). Better known by its less appealing name, skunkbush, this shrub is now a gorgeous display of yellow, orange, and red. During the summer its lush green foliage and rounded form make it a terrific background shrub. One drawback, like many plants adapted to our climate, is that it is slow to leaf out in the spring. But then delayed bud-burst protects foliage from late spring frosts. Clusters of tiny yellow flowers appear before the leaves and later develop into small orange-red berries. One rarely sees the fruit; they fall to the ground as they ripen and are quickly devoured by birds.

Another roadside attraction is the woods’ rose (Rosa woodsii). With the shorter days of fall, the leaves turn rusty hues of red, orange, or purple, depending on the amount of sun received - the sunnier the location, the brighter the color. But the ornamental value of this native rose is not limited to fall. The fragrant pink flowers are spectacular in the summer and eventually become clusters of bright red fruits called hips. The edible hips often remain on the plant throughout the winter, and are a good source of energy and protein for many birds and mammals during winters when food is scarce.

Rock spirea (Holodiscus dumosus), a relatively unknown and underutilized shrub in the rose family, has bronze-red foliage in the fall. Also known as mountain spray, this upright shrub has slender arching branches that bear lilac-shaped sprays of creamy-white flowers in the spring. The flowers fade to tannish-gold and remain attractive for a long time. This shrub is great for a rock-strewn garden as it often grows on dry rocky ridges and basalt outcroppings.

For wetter areas of your property (i.e. at the base of a downspout), consider the coyote willow (Salix exigua). This thicket-forming shrub has very narrow leaves that create a mass of golden-yellow in the fall. An added bonus is the reddish- or yellowish-brown twigs; they provide great winter interest. In addition, this plant is important for wildlife as it provides food and cover for birds, and is a host for many butterflies.

Another native that grows best with ample moisture is the red-twig dogwood (Cornus stolonifera). Not only does the foliage of this plant assume vivid shades of red and purple in the fall, its unmistakable bright red stems provide outstanding winter color. And if that weren't enough, white flower clusters appear mid-spring and the foliage is lush and green in the summer. This is truly a plant for four seasons.

The frequently cultivated golden current (Ribes aureum) has deeply lobed leaves that change from green to orange to wine-red in the fall. These colorful leaves only grace the plant for a short time but the brilliant show of golden-yellow flowers in the springs makes up for the fleeting fall color. This species provides good cover for many birds and the edible fruits are eaten by assortment of birds and small animals.

The widely adapted chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) has leaves that turn from luscious green to eye-catching burgundy. This large shrub, which sometimes occurs as a small tree, suckers profusely to forms dense thickets. Abundant white bottlebrush-like flowers appear in spring followed by big clusters of dark purple fruit. Though sour, the cherries are loved by man and bird alike. Cooking the berries reduces the tartness but to experience this, you have to get to them before the birds do.

Consider growing these native shrubs in your garden. It will be far more enjoyable and safer than gazing at them while you drive. And since we will likely enjoy the splendors of autumn until the end of October, I will keep the public's safety in mind. Next week, I'll ride my bike.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener Program Coordinator for the University of Arizona Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:19 PM

Master Gardeners

If you want to learn more about gardening and share your knowledge with others, the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Program may be for you. You don't have to be a gardening expert to become a master gardener. All you need is an interest in gardening, a willingness to learn more about horticulture, a desire to share horticulture information with others, and a personal commitment to volunteerism.

Applications are now being accepted for the Coconino County 2005 Master Gardener Program. This program is part of a nation-wide certification program that provides university training to volunteers for the purpose of enabling them to help their communities through horticulture education.

The first Master Gardener program was started in Washington State in 1972. In response to a high number of requests for home gardening information, county agents developed a training program to educate volunteers in various aspects of horticulture science. After completing the training, the volunteers assisted agents by providing information to the community. The first Master Gardener course was a tremendous success and the idea spread across the country and beyond. Today, the Master Gardener program is active in all 50 states and four provinces in Canada.

This will be the 15th year for the Coconino County Master Gardener Program. Tom DeGomez, former Agricultural and Natural Resources Extension Agent, introduced the program to our county in 1991. Currently, there are over 100 certified Master Gardeners in the program; 35 students completed their training in 2004; 13 students from the 2004 class have already become certified.

Here in Coconino County, Master Gardener volunteers are involved in numerous community service and outreach projects as well as providing answers to horticultural questions from county residents.

Master Gardeners have worked on many beautification projects around our community and have transformed these locations into places of beauty and pride for Flagstaff. Shepherd of the Hills Church and Grand Canyon Trust are just two of these projects.

Presently, a group of Master Gardeners, along with many other friends and volunteers, are creating gardens around the Olivia White Hospice Home to provide residents and their families a place for peace, reflection, joy and comfort.

A dedicated group of Master Gardeners has worked tirelessly to help citizens affected by the Rodeo-Chediski Fire. Working at the NAU greenhouses, these volunteers are assisting the Trees for the Rim project to provide plants to revegetate residential, commercial and community lands damaged by the fire.

Numerous Master Gardeners volunteer for the Arboretum at Flagstaff, leading tours, propagating plants, working in the gardens and promoting the mission of the Arboretum.

Concern over the spread of noxious weeds in our landscape has prompted several Master Gardeners to participate in weed eradication projects throughout our community.

In 2004, Master Gardeners answered more than 200 "hort" questions via the "hotline", a free service provided to Coconino County by the Master Gardeners. On a smaller scale, many Master Gardeners help friends and neighbors by providing solutions to gardening problems.

A Master Gardener initiated and has written many articles for the Master Gardener column.

Since spring 2003, Master Gardeners and friends have transformed the bare grounds behind Loyalton Assisted Living Facility into a virtual oasis of colors and textures. Here residents enjoy fresh air, memories, friendship, and the beauty of the gardens. This project is an extraordinary example of how the vision, hard work and generosity of a few can make a garden a reality.

The Master Gardener Training Course will be offered in Flagstaff starting February 3 thru May 12. The class will meet on Thursdays from 1:30-4:30 p.m. at the East Flagstaff Community Library. Registration for the program is $175 with a $50 rebate for completion of the volunteer portion of the program. A copy of the Arizona Master Gardener manual is included in the fee.

Participants will learn the keys to successful gardening in high elevation environments. University of Arizona Extension specialists and instructors, and Master Gardeners will teach classes in basic botany, soils, plant propagation, plant problem diagnosis, insect management, pruning, fruit tree, vegetable gardening, Xeriscape, ornamental plants, composting, and arboriculture. After completing the training course, Coconino County Master Gardeners must complete 50 hours of volunteer service within the first year to become certified.

Contact Hattie Braun at the Coconino County Cooperative Extension at (928) 774-1868 ext. 17 to request an application or for more information. Class size is limited. Applications must be received by Jan 20.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:16 PM

The Magic of Mulch Will Put You into Action

Got Mulch? If not, consider mulching as just another of your winterizing tasks, like adding anti-freeze to your car. When bringing out the winter blankets, bring one out for the garden. A two to three inch layer of mulch covering your plants will work hard for you during the dormant months while you do no work at all. And, that winter application can work in your garden all year round.

In winter, you may justifiably feel smug while watching your mulch doing its magic under the snow and knowing that plants are protected from the perils of freezing temperatures. The freezing and thawing cycle that we experience in Northern Arizona is the same cycle that buckles asphalt, so you can imagine what it's doing to your anemones! These extremes are the cause of much of the plant damage and demise in our area. When applied after the ground is frozen, mulch can greatly reduce frost heaving.

Gardeners have two choices of mulch: organic and inorganic. Organic mulch can be any material layered uniformly on the soil surface that was derived from plant material. Organic mulch can be free and as available as your nearest pine needle bed or pile of leaves. Dry grass clippings, bark, straw, and wood chips can also be used. Even a fallen evergreen bough placed over a plant is mulch.

I like the simplicity of application of leaves. Rake the leaves from one part of your yard to another part that has the plants needing mulch, spread to a thickness of two to three inches, and call it a day. Or a season. No stooping is involved! If you are wary of such simplicity, your nursery can advise you of a bagged mulch appropriate to your needs. Regardless of your source, organic matter will decompose over time and enrich and improve the soil. One word of caution: avoid using fresh materials as a considerable amount of nitrogen is taken from the soil by the microorganisms decomposing the organic matter.

Inorganic mulches are inert materials that are either synthetic, such as landscape fabric, or naturally occurring, such as gravel or rock. My favorite inorganic mulch is cinder pebble, the kind we see on some volcanic cones around Flagstaff. Slate gray and finely textured, it provides a dramatic background for your spring and summer flowers. My first view of this natural mulch in action was at Sunset Crater, on a hillside dotted with the gray-green plants of the Sunset Crater penstemon. In bloom, these same plants present rose-pink flowers against a dark gray background. Stunning!

For more mulch ideas, cruise your neighborhood to see how gardeners protect their plants while also presenting an orderly and unified look to their landscape with either organic or rock mulches. The newly planted penstemon garden at the Arboretum at Flagstaff provides a beautiful example of inorganic cinder mulch, and the paths leading to this garden neatly display the use of organic mulch.

And mulch will continue working after winter is over. Once spring arrives, so does the wind and it is time to water. This is a time of year many gardeners fail to provide the water that newly stirring plants need. Deep watering under the mulch results in efficient use and retention of moisture. Not only are the cool, dry days of spring precarious to plants in terms of water but plants also need protection from unsettled temperatures. Organic mulches keep soils cooler in the spring and will slow the emergence of perennials and bulbs thus limiting frost damage.

Dandelion clumps are another sure sign that spring is here. Those dandelion seeds, as well as other seeds, will have a difficult time germinating under a mulch cover. The ones that do will be spindly, weak and easier to slip out of the ground.

Summer is the busiest time for most gardeners. With a growing season of ninety days, most of us wait for the proper temperatures and then it's "ready, set, plant!" Soil preparation, trips to the nursery, and days of getting things into the ground leave little time for watering. A good mulch cover conserves moisture in the soil and can substantially reduce your watering time and costs.

Mulch is a gift for all seasons, generating year-round benefits for you and your garden. It can be cheap, simple to use and a renewable resource. Nature, for all her indifference, sometimes shows up on the side of the gardener.

By Donna Reese
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:14 PM

Living Christmas Trees II

Do you want an alternative to a fresh-cut or artificial Christmas tree? Consider buying a living evergreen tree. Not only can you use it for decoration during the holidays, but a living tree can offer year-round beauty when planted in the landscape and can also serve as an outdoor Christmas tree for many years to come.

In order to thrive both indoors and in your garden, a living Christmas tree requires a little extra care. Our unpredictable, high elevation climate can make establishing a tree outdoors in winter a challenge. Here are some tips to follow to help ensure your living Christmas tree’s success.

Before purchasing a tree, choose a location for the tree to be replanted. For most conifers, good soil drainage and adequate space and sunlight are required. Then select a tree to match the site, keeping in mind the mature size of the tree. The most readily available tree in our region is Colorado blue spruce, but ponderosa, pinyon, and Austrian pine, as well as white fir and Douglas-fir can also be used as a living Christmas tree.

After bringing your tree home, you will need to acclimate it to life indoors for at least a week by moving it to an unheated but sheltered area such as a garage or porch. Water thoroughly, soaking until water is flowering out of the drainage holes of the pot.

When it’s time to bring your tree indoors, set it in a large tub to catch water and to protect your flooring. Choose a spot in your home that is as cool as possible, keeping the tree away from heating vents, fireplaces, appliances or anything that generates heat. Do not use heat-producing lights. Use cooler, miniature lights to prevent damage to the tree.

Keep the tree in your home for as short a time as possible, no longer than a week. Your tree is in a dormant state; the key to keeping it alive is to prevent it from breaking its dormancy. Prolonged exposure to warm household temperatures may cause the tree to loose dormancy and limit its ability to survive cold outdoor temperatures.

Water your tree daily, keeping the root ball moist but not soggy. A handy technique for watering trees while indoors is to use ice cubes. This will help the tree stay cool and may prevent it from breaking dormancy.

After the holidays, reacclimate your tree to colder outdoor temperatures by placing it back on the sheltered porch or in your garage for several days. Again, continue to keep the soil moist.

It is best to plant your tree immediately after the holidays and if the ground is unfrozen, you should be able to do this right away. Some advocate preparing the planting hole as soon as you purchase the tree in case the ground freezes before the holidays. This recommendation may be good advice for some parts of the country, but not for the clayey soils of Northern Arizona. Though the hole may be easily dug, the soil removed from the hole can turn into rock-hard clods that cannot be used to backfill the hole. If you want to dig now, store the soil somewhere it won't dry out or freeze. But since the ground in Northern Arizona usually doesn't usually freeze until January, I would wait and dig when ready to plant. If in doubt, mulch the site to delay freezing.

Dig a planting hole 3-5 times the diameter but only as deep as the root ball of the tree. Place the tree gently in the hole and backfill with the native soil. Mulch heavily to prevent the ground from freezing immediately and to give the tree a chance to adjust to its new location. Evergreens are prone to winter injury from desiccation because they continue to lose water from their needles. Trees with poorly established root systems, like your newly planted tree, are particularly vulnerable, so continue to water well.

Our unpredictable weather may prevent you from planting the tree immediately but you can keep your tree healthy for months in its container. Place your tree in a sheltered area and mulch the pot with a thick layer of leaves or compost. Snow also works great as mulch. Do not leave your tree in an exposed site where it can suffer from sun- or windburn.

Actually, with the proper care, it is possible to successfully maintain your tree in a container for several years. At our home, we have grown a Douglas-fir in a pot for 10 years. It is now over 4 feet tall. The key to its survival is a sheltered location, and regular water and attention. When the weather is at its coldest, I move the tree closer to the house for protection. Last year, we lugged it inside to use as a Christmas tree, following the above-mentioned guidelines. We never planted our Douglas-fir in the ground and it is still thriving in a pot.

Treat your tree with care and it will serve as a reminder of 2004 for years to come.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the Master Gardener program coordinator for the University of Arizona Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:11 PM

Living Christmas Trees

Once you decide to purchase a living tree for your Christmas tree, the best thing to do is decide where you want to plant the tree and dig the hole before the ground freezes. The hole should be 1 ½ times larger and deeper than the diameter of the soilball.

After purchasing the tree and before you display it, place the tree in an adequate size water tight container. Keep the tree in a cool frost-free area for approximately one week before displaying, i.e. garage, porch. Root ball should be kept moist during this conditioning period. Moisture content of tree can be prolonged with the use of an antidesiccant spray.

If the ball of the tree is frozen, allow it to thaw before decorating.

Since the tree is out of its natural habitat, the shorter the time it is displayed, the better the chance of survival. It is preferable not to display a living Christmas tree for more than 5 to 10 days. Place the tree away from heat vents, fireplace and direct sun. Living Christmas trees prefer minimal light if possible. During the indoor display period, the tree should be kept moist but should not stand in water.

After the 5 to 10 days display time, acclimate the tree by placing it in a cool, frost free area, keeping the root bal moist the entire time. Plant the tree as soon as possible.

Prepare a special planting mixture with a ratio of 2/3 soil and 1/3 spahagnum peat moss.

Place tree in hole with top of root ball 1” above ground level. Fill hole ½ full with soil mixture and tamp firmly. Then cut the burlap loose from the trunk and fold down. NOTE: If tree is wrapped with plastic burlap and twine, remove materials carefully. Soak plant thoroughly several times. After the water soaks away, finish covering ball with soil mixture.

Fill in hole with planting mixture and tamp down firmly. Form a basin around the edge of the hole to retain water. Thoroughly soak by filling hole with water, and cover ball with soil mixture. Apply 2” to 4” of mulch to basin. Water thoroughly once a week or as needed during the first growing season. The best way is to place a garden hose at base of tree, letting it trickle slowly until soil is saturated. Be careful of over watering when planting in heavy clay soil, shade or when a heavy mulch is used.

After the first year, feed tree twice yearly, in the early spring and again in the fall.

Living Christmas trees
Without a doubt, the freshest Christmas tree will be one that is still living. Many families will traditionally buy a living tree from a nursery each year, and then plant it, along with the memories it holds, into their landscape.

Living trees take extra care, or they may not survive to be planted in the yard. Select a tree that fits your needs, in size and shape. If the tree is not already in a planter or pot of some sort, the rootball should be set into a bucket or container, to protect the roots... and your floor. Never lift the tree by the stem.

Living trees can only be kept indoors for ten days. Before you bring it into a heated room, it should be conditioned to help lessen the shock to the plant, by keeping it in the garage or other unheated area, for a few days. When you bring it indoors, set it in a cool location, out of direct sunlight, and away from any heat sources. Avoid using heat producing lights.

Watering is essential. Moisten the soil completely before you bring the tree indoors. Keep it moist the entire time that the plant is kept in the home.

When it is time to put your Christmas tree outdoors, you should once again move it to an unheated area of the house or garage for a few days, before planting it into your landscape. If the ground is frozen, or you are unable to plant your tree immediately, it should be placed in a sheltered area with the root ball mulched with a thick layer of leaves or compost.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:09 PM

Lawn Alternatives

When the only thing moving in your Flagstaff front yard is a person pushing a lawn mower, it just might be time to reconsider your landscaping. And if your water bill is equal to Donald Trump’s annual income (in relative terms, of course), I can almost guarantee you have a Kentucky bluegrass lawn with some perennial rye and tall fescue thrown in. Now, I grew up in England (the hometown of “Kentucky” bluegrass) and I love the green, lush, cool feel of it under my bare feet.

But “let’s do the numbers” as they say in every good investment firm. Kentucky bluegrass and its companions are continually thirsty grasses and need, on an annual basis, 30 to 40 inches of water each year to maintain a healthy green appearance. The actual amount of water needed in your yard depends on your soil composition, the ferocity and frequency of windy days, the amount of sun, and many other factors. Several native grasses that make lovely turf-type lawns require (are you ready?) less than 10 inches of water per year! Yes, per year! (Look for a future column for more information on our wonderful native grasses.)

So what is one to do? Lawns, in appropriate sizes and for suitable reasons, do have a place in the landscape of many homes. Who wants to turn to their children and say, “Kids, go outside and play on the cinders!” A lawn serves many purposes; establishing focal points, cooling an area, creating a fire break around your house, etc. Let me suggest some excellent yard alternatives to the traditional bluegrass lawn.

First, consider replacing your lawn, particularly in the front yard where few people spend little time anyway! What if, in a sunny area, you decided to put in a brilliant array of drought resistant perennial plants instead of a large lawn? Some, such as blanket flower (Gaillardia sp.) in shades of red and gold, bright purple lavenders (Munstead and Hidcote varieties of are especially hardy here), jupiter’s beard (Centranthus ruber) in stunning rose-red, prairie coneflower (Ratibida columnifera) in gold or mahogany-red, and pink gayfeather (Liatris punctata), do very well in our region. A beautiful grass addition to a sunny area is the ornamental grass Karl Foerster feather reed grass (Calmagrostis x acutiflora). Growing 4-5’ tall and 2’ wide, it will add year round interest as the golden-tan plumes atop grass stems remain all winter and look magnificent amidst a bed of snow.

In areas that receive part sun to shade, you might try columbines (Aquilegia) that come in a wide assortment of colors. Our native columbine Aquilegia chrysanthum has fragrant yellow flowers that appear in the spring. Also appropriate for this spot would be blue flax (Linum lewisii), pink prairie smoke (Geum triflorum), and catmint (Nepeta x faassenii). Stick to the named hybrids of this last one as the species can take over an area like litter takes over a vacant lot. Don’t forget the brilliant local grass prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) that will add a soft touch to your garden while displaying a beautiful golden-orange autumn color.

Once established, these low-water plants require little, if any, irrigation and will thrive in average soils. Add a bird bath and a bird feeder and then, if you feel so inclined, frame your perennial area with a strip of a native or drought tolerant grass such as sheep fescue (Festuca ovina) or blue grama (Bouteloua gracilis).

Another alternative is to plant a small area with creeping thyme. I love golden thyme; the fragrance is extraordinary and it seems to settle into a habitat like a long-lost friend. Most thymes can handle some foot traffic although I would not suggest a game of soccer on a thyme yard (the soccer players would smell great – now, wouldn’t that be nice!).

One more suggestion is to build a freeform raised area and, with the addition of strategically placed rocks and alpine plants, create a miniature mountain (about 3-4 feet high) in your front yard. A friend of mine just did this, and is pleased with the results and the ensuing compliments from her neighbors. Again, you may choose to surround this with a native grasses.

There are many other ideas for landscaping your front yard without resorting to the rather tiresome ‘square-lawn-framed-by-concrete’. An added bonus for a more creative use of the front yard space is that this type of landscape can provide birds and pollinators both shelter and a much needed food source, and helps your garden to blend into our local ecosystem.

By Terra Crampton
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and the Master Naturalist program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:06 PM

Prepare Your Houseplants for Winter

Days are getting shorter, nights are getting colder, and winter is fast approaching. It’s time to focus our attention on our indoor plants. Should we be concerned with houseplants in winter? After all, aren’t they growing in a controlled environment, shielded from the elements? The fact is that seasonal change outdoors does affect our indoor plants. Also, our controlled indoor environment can itself introduce additional stress to our plants. These changes in light, temperature, humidity, as well as our ingrained watering habits can all contribute to stress houseplants. In the aggregate, these stresses can produce weak or leggy growth, and pallid or browning foliage. If we understand the origin and nature of these stresses we can act to reduce them.

Fall and winter months bring the time of year when sunlight is neither as abundant nor as intense as during the outdoor growing season. Unless you grow your plants 12 inches under fluorescent lights, the usual locations of your houseplants may no longer meet their basic light levels. All know that the duration of sunlight varies throughout the year and is at a minimum in mid-winter. Passing storms can bring repeated days with cloudy skies. Even when the sun does shine, it is lower in the sky so that its rays strike the earth (and our houseplants) at a more oblique angle. This results in sunlight of a weakened intensity. Houseplants that have summered outdoors, even in a shaded location, are very vulnerable to this stress of reduced sunlight indoors.

A second and lesser factor that affects the sunlight available to indoor plants pertains to the fact that sunlight has to travel through our windows. While clean glass has excellent transparency qualities, who among us ventures outdoors to wash windows in January?! Plastic or lucite glazing is even less forgiving than glass. So while the foliage may be gone from that shade tree in front of the window, snow and rain will nonetheless leave a film on the window surface. Although minor, these deposits will further dilute the effective sunlight that can pass through a window. Screens, blinds, and curtains will reduce even more the amount of sunlight that is available for our plants. So if that African violet in your east window seems to languish pallidly during the winter months, it may be because it isn’t receiving enough sunlight – you may try moving it to a more southerly exposure and/or giving it less water.

Why should we be concerned with temperature when our homes are heated at this time of year? First, even if we set our thermostats back at night or allow the stove to burn down, the indoor daily range between the extremes of high and low temperatures is usually much less than that which most plants normally would experience in their natural habitat. There is not much that we can do with our living quarters to compensate for this abnormality. A second consequence of heating our homes is that the indoor environment can become very dry. This lowered humidity may cause our plants to develop brown edges or leaf tips, particularly those that are native to tropical climates. A saucer filled with pebbles and water will help if the water level is maintained at just below the bottom of the pot. The pebbles promote evaporation of the water. An added strategy to combat dry air is to group our houseplants so that they benefit from their collective transpiration.

Another temperature-related consequence comes from the existence of indoor microclimates. Although a thermostat on an interior wall may read 67, the temperature along an exterior wall or by a less than tight window or door may be several degrees cooler. Placement of our houseplants should be guided and, if need be, adjusted by knowing of the existence of these microclimates. For example, they should never be placed where there will be sudden, dramatic fluctuations in temperature, as by an exterior door.

There remains one final factor to consider. Reduced and less intense sunlight, a shrunken daily temperature range, and less than optimum humidity all conspire to strain our plants during winter. If we continue to maintain our customary watering schedule through the winter, we are unwittingly adding to the stress on our plants and are likely encouraging leggy and weak growth. Simply stated, with less solar energy available, less photosynthesis is possible. Therefore, we should be watering less, either in frequency or amount. This tried and true rule applies year-round: water a plant only when its soil surface has become dry and then water it thoroughly. Moreover and unless you are growing under artificial lights, it almost goes without saying that feeding indoor plants at this time of year - say December through February - is totally unnecessary and may be counterproductive by stimulating growth that is bound to be weak, leggy, and limp. A final tip to avoid lopsided growth: Rotate your plants ¼ turn each time you water.

By tony Croce
The author is a Master Gardener volunteer for the University of Arizona Coconino County Cooperative Extension.

Posted by maxmaddy at 1:03 PM

Doney Park Gardening

When we moved into Doney Park in 1980, I was told “You can’t grow a garden here!” Thankfully, I’m hard headed and tried anyway. Some years were better than others, but 2004 has turned out to be one of the best years yet.

Much of my success is due to listening to others’ success stories and quite a bit is due to the education I got from the Master Gardener program. For instance, I discovered that I had been watering my vegetables and flowers wrong for over 20 years. As anyone who lives in Arizona knows, water is the key to growing anything and the type of soil you are working with is the determining factor in how you apply water.

In my area of Doney Park, there are quite a few small cinders in the soil, enough to qualify the type of soil as “sandy”, and it is at least seven feet deep. This means that it drains very quickly and the once-a-week several hours of watering that I did in the past was mostly ineffective, because the water just kept on draining down. My new method, after an initial drenching to get the soil moist, is to water every day for about twenty to thirty minutes. This cut my water bill by about half and the plants stayed healthy and strong. Of course, when we got our monsoon rains, I didn’t need to water at all for several weeks.

In my garden I use a type of planting called “pan gardening.” This means that the rows are below ground level in order to catch rainwater. I also use a broadcast method of planting seeds to get a dense cover of plants to shade the ground, conserve moisture and control weeds.

Over the years, we have added untold numbers of wheelbarrow loads of compost and manure to my garden. The cindery soil needs this addition of organic matter to provide nutrients and to help maintain moisture.

Most of the seeds I plant are ordered from catalogs, which start arriving in winter. This gives me plenty of time to pore over descriptions to find new varieties to try.

Without a doubt, tomatoes are the most popular home-grown vegetables anywhere. In the past, I have planted as many as four different varieties of tomato plants. The varieties that I have found which produce early and well in my area are: number one of all, Early Girl; and then, Better Boy. I have had moderate success with other varieties, such as Celebrity, but none produce as consistently as these two. .

My favorite fresh vegetable from the garden is green beans. Bush bean Derby has consistently given me tender, stringless beans until frost kills the plants. I have also had good results with a new cultivar called Festina, although it tends to become tough if not picked at the right time.

English shelling peas are another favorite; however, my crops have not been consistent. The most success I’ve had is with a type called Eclipse. I appreciate the fact that they stay sweet longer and don’t turn starchy. If you can get these planted early enough before the hot June winds, they produce heavily. The mature plants also seem to be able to handle the heat a little better than some others.

Fresh salad greens, lettuce and spinach, seem to make all the gardening work worthwhile. I’ve found Space to be an outstanding variety of spinach. For lettuce, I usually buy a packet of seeds that contains several different kinds. This way, if one kind doesn’t fare well, another takes up the slack. I particulary like one called Red Sails; it seems to last through hot weather without turning bitter and bolting.

Who doesn’t like corn on the cob? I do, but I don’t always have success with this one. My best crops have been in the last couple of years with a variety called Trinity. This early corn has small cobs and three colors of kernels. Although the ears are small in diameter, they fill out to the end well and don’t turn starchy early.

This year I planted Green Comet broccoli plants and it has been the best crop I have ever had. A few of the heads were seven inches across and there was no sign of aphids. The side shoots are still coming in and probably will do so until a hard freeze. I planted these in mid-May and used a thick grass hay mulch. No insecticides were used (I try to be 100% organic) and I saw only some minor insect damage on the leaves, probably a grasshopper or two. These must have been exceptionally strong seedlings.

For making a gardener feel good, nothing beats squash. With just a little water, almost anyone can grow huge crops of yellow squash and zucchini.

There are many other vegetables in my garden that I have varying success with, but it’s exciting to try new varieties to see how they will fare in our harsh climate. Can you grow a garden in Flagstaff, Doney Park to be specific? Yes. Is it easy? No. Is it rewarding? You bet!

By Sue Ward
The author of this article is a volunteer trained through the Master Gardener Program in Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 12:59 PM

Keeping Wildfires at Bay

Keeping Wildfires at Bay
by Alice Monet

One of the many things we love about living in Flagstaff is being surrounded by forests and blending in to a natural landscape. My family and I live in a ramshackle wooden house perched on the edge of a small wooded canyon, which connects to McMillan Mesa and from there to Buffalo Park. Our backyard is still visited on occasion by deer, coyotes, foxes, and other wild critters, and the dense stand of ponderosas, oaks, and brush in the canyon screens out the road below. It’s beautiful, but life in such a woodsy setting comes with one major drawback: vulnerability to wildfires.

The good news is, as gardeners, there is a lot we can do to lower the risk of wildfires reaching our homes and make our property easier to defend if a fire does come close. This involves three basic steps: creating a ``defensible space’’ around your house, coming up with a landscape that slows down the spread of fire and reduces its intensity, and selecting plants that are naturally fire-resistant. This doesn’t mean cutting down all the trees for 50 feet in all directions and paving the ground with gravel. There’s no need to destroy our woodsy environment in order to save it!

A defensible space is an area around your house that allows access for firefighters and their equipment, and which is relatively clear of flammable materials. This means not having dense thickets of trees and shrubs growing right up to the walls of your house; making sure that fences have an adequate number of gates, and that the gates open widely enough so that firefighters can get to all parts of your property; and having open areas between surrounding woodlands and your house to keep wildfires from jumping from burning trees to decks, eaves, or other structures connected to the house itself. The standard recommendation is for this defensible zone to be at least 30 feet wide.

Inside this defensible space there’s still a lot of room for an attractive landscape. Just remember the three R’s: removal, reduction, and replacement. Obviously, we need to remove fire hazards. The smart place for the woodpile is at the edge of your defensible space, not up against the wall of the house. Likewise, although it may not be quite as convenient, the leaf pile and compost heap are best kept at the border of the yard, not under the eaves. So look around for fire hazards and remove them to a safer distance.

Some hazards just can’t be eliminated, but they still can be reduced. We love having trees near the house for shade and beauty. But when we first moved to our house, many of those trees had dead limbs reaching down to the ground or resting on the roof. We contacted our favorite tree guy to do some careful pruning and reduce the amount of dead timber around the house. The entire yard was buried in about five years worth of dead pine needles and leaves from the oaks and cottonwood. All that “fuel” had to go! And much as we love our ponderosas, we had to admit that the one growing right next to the house, with branches growing immediately above the chimney, was a tree we could live without.

In planning a new landscape, we decided to replace some of the highly flammable plantings near the house with fire resistant alternatives. A row of aromatic cedars across the front porch was replaced with a stone patio surrounded by garden beds planted with native plants and wildflowers. A small lawn, located about 30 feet away from the front of the house, is planted with a low-water use fescue mix. Beds near the house are watered regularly during the driest months, providing the double benefit of an attractive garden and a moist buffer zone in case a wildfire ever does sweep up the wooded hillside.

We had to fence the backyard when a puppy joined our family. Instead of the standard wooden stockade fence, we opted for brown chain link. It doesn’t block our view of the trees, and won’t burn. Three gates provide access to the yard from all side and one of those gates is 9 feet wide, just in case we ever need to let firefighters and their equipment get around to the back of our property.

The good news about planting a firewise landscape is that the choice of suitable plants is so large. A search for “fire resistant plants” on the internet will yield a multitude of websites listing everything from towering shade trees to tiny groundcovers. Some fire resistant plants found growing in Flagstaff include quaking aspen, Gambel oak, New Mexico olive, lilac, chokecherry, buffaloberry, shrubby cinquefoil, Rocky Mountain penstemon, roses, pussytoes, currants, red-osier dogwood and several varieties of ash. This is just a sampling from one list. There are many more fire-resistant plants available.

Protecting your home from wildfires does not require a barren landscape, or installing a moat (although that does suggest some interesting gardening opportunities!) What it does require is putting on your firefighter’s hat and looking over your property with fire prevention and defensibility in mind. Following the basic principles of firewise landscaping will not only improve your home’s safety, but also possibly your neighbor’s, and you can still have an attractive and functional garden. What more could you ask?

Check out the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s firewise website at ag.arizona.edu/firewise or stop by the county extension office at 2304 N. 3rd Street to pick up brochures on the subject.

By Alice Monet
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:56 AM

Container Gardens for Fall

It dropped below freezing last night at my house. When I first came to Flagstaff, this would have been the signal to plant a few perennials for next summer, add some more daffodil and tulip bulbs (you can never have too many!), and start my fall garden cleanup. But now I know that's not the end of the story. While it's certainly too late to set out petunias and impatiens, this is a great time to plant a cold hardy container garden.

My first fall container garden was a desperate attempt to make our garden look attractive when we hosted a retirement party for a friend at home in February. Normally, this is the dreariest time of year in the garden. The last of the late-flowering perennials are just tangles of brown, broken stems; the ground is sodden wherever the snow has melted, or just a featureless expanse of white where it hasn't; and months of winter still lie ahead. It really is a bit late for Christmas lights and wreaths. But my boss was coming, and his boss, and his boss! I had to try something!

Planting a container garden for cold weather turned out to be a cinch. Just use plants that are well-suited to cold, give them a little protection from the worst winter weather, and they will provide a cheerful, attractive accent for your garden or entrance for months to come, and possibly right through till spring.

What are these miraculous winter-proof plants? You know many of them already: evergreen shrubs and compact trees, ivy and periwinkle, pansies, snapdragons, wood asters. Sedums, snapdragons, winter-blooming heaths (Erica carnea), Algerian iris, aconite and witch hazel, fall-blooming crocus and hellebores, and some varieties of chrysanthemums, all provide late-season color and foliage. There are also a number of foliage plants that continue to look attractive right through winter, including Inkberry holly, Oregon grape, dwarf Alberta spruce, arbor vitae, and many varieties of juniper. A good way to find these plants is to visit local nurseries and see what they have to offer. While the selection won't be nearly as extensive as in spring or summer, there always seem to be some cold hardy plants available.

Planting a cold-hardy container is much the same as planting in warmer seasons. Choose a container that can withstand wintry conditions. Plastic, foam, or wood will hold up best in snow and freezing temperatures. A larger container will provide a more stable environment than a smaller pot. The soil around the outside will help insulate the rest of the soil from the cold, so plant roots will be less likely to freeze, causing the plants to go dormant. Placing the container in a somewhat sheltered location, next to a house wall or under a tree, will give it some protection from the elements.

Make sure the container has adequate drainage. A hole or two in the bottom will prevent the soil from becoming water logged and then freezing into a block of ice. Using a lightweight soil mix, especially formulated for containers, will also help insure good drainage. If you opt for regular potting soil, you can lighten it up by mixing in a few cups of perlite or vermiculite, or both, before planting. While adding good things to your soil, this is a good time to mix in some slow-release fertilizer, such as Osmocote, and some water-retaining crystals, to help keep the soil fertile and moist throughout the winter.

Collect a pleasing assortment of plants. This is the fun part! I love to use pansies in my fall containers. Their cheerful faces and wide variety of colors add so much to the garden in winter. They are amazingly hardy, blooming right under the snow, and sometimes will keep growing and blooming right through the winter. I like to use a compact, broadleaf evergreen, such as inkberry holly, as the central figure in my winter drama, with a supporting cast of colorful pansies, and some varigated ivy draping over the edges of the container, adding a touch of elegance and old-fashioned charm.

Be sure to leave room at the top for a layer of mulch. While mulching the container garden is helpful any time of year, it’s particularly important for a cold season container garden. Not only will mulch retain moisture and protect plant roots from the cold, but a thick layer of mulch (a couple of inches) will help stabilize the temperature of the soil, preventing frost heave which results from soil freezing and thawing repeatedly during the season.

Water well after planting and as needed after that. Even though the cold temperatures will reduce the rate of evaporation, the container garden will still need occasional watering. Cold winter air can be awfully dry. Much of the damage suffered by plants in the winter is due to excessively dry conditions rather than low temperatures.

Provide some protection during extra-cold spells. These usually only last a day or two. If a particularly harsh storm is moving in, it won’t hurt to cover your container garden with a blanket (support it with a tomato cage!) or move it into the garage until the storm passes.

If we should be lucky enough to get some very heavy snowfalls this winter, just knock the snow off if it appears to be causing damage. But remember! Snow is a great insulator and shield. I’ve often discovered plants such as pansies blooming under a thick blanket of snow, while those in the open get zapped.

That’s all there is to it! Who says we can’t garden year ‘round in Flagstaff?

By Alice Monet
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener Volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:52 AM

Ready, Set, PLANT!

It’s starting to feel a lot like fall. The days are getting shorter, the air is cool and crisp, and monsoon season seems to be winding down. I’m starting to feel that familiar primal urge: must plant!

“Plant now,” you ask, “just as the weather’s turning colder and winter isn’t far away?” Yes, indeed! Odd as it may seem, fall is probably the best time to plant many types of perennials, trees, shrubs, and bulbs. And there are many reasons why!

Plants are less stressed by transplanting. Fact is, being planted in the spring is very hard on most plants. Spring in Flagstaff usually features nighttime temperatures below freezing, ferocious winds that suck all the moisture out of tender new growth, occasional late snowstorms, or no precipitation at all. The ground is still cold, hard, and dry. As if this weren’t enough of a challenge, new transplants have to grow new leaves and flowers at the same time they are struggling to establish a root system. Is it any wonder so many spring plantings fail?

The soil is warm and well moistened. By the end of summer, the soil has warmed up thoroughly, and it will not freeze for several months, even when the air becomes quite chilly. When monsoon season draws to a close, our soil is generally as soft and moist as it ever gets. Plants set out in the garden in September have a more hospitable environment and plenty of time to get established before winter arrives.

Roots grow better. In the natural cycle of plant growth, when the portion above ground stops growing rapidly and flower production dwindles, the energy of the plant is redirected into growing a bigger, more effective root system. By the time new growth emerges in the spring, the plants will have strong, healthy roots, ready to deliver water and nutrients to young shoots and leaves.

Less watering is required. Lower temperatures in the fall slow down the evaporation of moisture from the soil and from plants. Mere survival is not nearly the struggle it is in the spring and summer months. When I do my fall planting, I water each transplant deeply, and then cover the soil around it with a deep layer of mulch – usually 2-3 inches of cocoa hull mulch, pine needles, or composted “forest mulch”. This not only prevents the soil from drying out too rapidly, but also reduces the amount of frost heave over the winter. If there is very little rain during the fall months, I water the new plantings deeply about every 2 weeks until the ground freezes. This is very different from the watering needs of spring plantings, which often require daily irrigation to survive.

Insects are less active. Many insects become dormant, die, or migrate when cool weather arrives, and our gardens enjoy a respite. Fall plantings have a chance to get established and adapt to their new location before the next wave of insects, caterpillars, spider mites, and such renew their ravenous attacks in the spring. By that time, with their stronger root systems and sturdy new growth, these plants are better able to withstand insect assault and may even have developed some natural defense mechanisms that make them less susceptible.

Weeds are dying back. On top of all the other challenges faced by spring planting, weeds are doing their best to grab all the nutrients, moisture and sunshine available in the garden. Tender transplants are already struggling and are in constant danger of being out-competed by well-established, vigorous, fast-growing weeds. But in the fall, even weeds are slowing down. True, they are also busy growing stronger root systems, so they will still be a problem in the spring. But by the time the weeds reappear, your fall plantings will be tougher and more likely to survive the competition.

Many plants are now on sale. The end-of -season ads are starting to appear in the paper. Every year at this time, I like to go nosing through the “scratch-and-dent” racks, looking for bargains. Sure the plants look sad! They’ve stopped putting out new growth, and soon will be entering dormancy. But next spring, if they’re tucked into a garden bed now and protected with a layer of mulch, they’ll be ready to grow again. Because they’ve had all fall and winter to grow strong root systems, they’ll be bigger, more vigorous, and produce more flowers than if you’d planted the same size plant in the spring.

It’s more comfortable working in the garden. This is just a lovely time to be out in the garden, enjoying the late summer flowers and the cool air. There just aren’t many things I find more enjoyable than digging in the soft, fragrant earth, with the warm autumn sun on my shoulders and a cool breeze keeping me comfortable. The garden is a happier place all winter with its fresh layer of mulch and dormant plants ready to burst out of the ground when it warms up next spring. In fact, I can’t wait any longer. Must plant!

By Alice Monet
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:49 AM

Containers for the Summer Garden

Have you ever heard (or asked) any of the following questions?
• How can I get anything to grow when I don’t have any soil around my house?
• What’s the point in planting anything when it’s liable to be zapped by a late freeze or shredded by a hailstorm?
• How can I grow tomatoes when the ground is still cold in the middle of May?
• What can I do about the prairie dogs that eat everything I plant in my yard?
• How can I have a garden when I live in an apartment?
• What’s an easy and inexpensive way to beautify my home’s entrance?
• How can I keep a garden going, even after winter arrives?
The answer to these and many other gardening questions is just two simple words: container gardens!

If your idea of container gardening is to grow a plant in a pot, it’s time to think outside the pot! Basically, anything you can grow or include in a traditional garden bed can be grown in a container. Simply provide, in the container, all the conditions the plants require for growth. In some cases, this is much easier to do than in a garden bed. Furthermore, if the container is moveable, it can be carried or dragged under cover when destructive weather is anticipated. It can be moved around the yard to take advantage of sunny spots or to fill in a gap in the garden. Containers can provide plenty of planting space on a balcony, deck, or rooftop. A container on a pedestal or hanging from a porch roof will defeat even the most determined prairie dog. A collection of colorful containers can provide a great accent for the garden, even without any plants!

How do we get started? First, select a container. The choices are endless. For purely practical purposes, I prefer plastic or foam containers. They are inexpensive, durable, weatherproof, and lightweight. They hold in moisture, which is a big plus in our dry climate, and are easy to clean and reuse. These containers are available in an amazing range of styles, sizes, and colors, and can be found just about anywhere plants are sold. Choose a container at least 12 inches in diameter, to provide enough room for at least 3-4 plants. The container must have drainage holes in the bottom. If it doesn’t, drill a few. Without drainage, the container will quickly become waterlogged and the plants will drown.

Next, choose a good potting soil. A lightweight mix specially formulated for containers is best. Don’t use soil from the yard. A container garden requires a very high quality planting mix that is free of diseases, weeds, and insects, and well-supplied with all the nutrients the plants will require. This is not the place to use home-grown compost or manure from a local stable. Place a coffee filter or a piece of landscape fabric over the base of the container to keep soil from falling out of the drainage holes. Then fill with potting soil to the depth of the largest plant you plan to use.

The next step is to select some attractive plants that look great together. It’s easy to try out various combinations by choosing a few plants and placing them together in your cart at the store. The goal is an eye-pleasing mix of flower colors, foliage, plant shapes, textures, and sizes. It’s important to use plants with very similar water and sun requirements. A useful design formula is to combine a tall, upright plant with one featuring attractive foliage and/or blossoms, and a trailing plant to drape over the container’s edge. But this is your garden, so choose what works for you!

Now the fun part! Arrange the plants in the container, starting with the largest. As you work your way toward smaller and smaller plants, add potting soil so that all the plants will end up with their soil surfaces at the same level. Fill in the gaps between the plants with more potting soil. Press all the plants carefully but firmly down into the pot to insure good root contact with the soil. Water gently but thoroughly, until water begins to seep out of the drainage holes.

Position the container where you want some instant color, where it gets enough sunlight, and is at least partly protected from wind and foot traffic. Now step back and admire your creation. Your container garden will require regular watering and removal of spent blossoms and any damaged or scraggly leaves. Otherwise, with very little additional work, your container garden should continue to provide a decorative accent in your landscape for the rest of the growing season.

Do you have a gardening question? Call the Master Gardener Hotline at 774-1868 ext. 19 and leave a message. A Master Gardener will research your problem and return your call within 72 hours.

By Alice Monet
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:45 AM

Attracting Butterflies

Seeing a butterfly weed in all its glory converted me in an instant into a butterfly weed fanatic. The plant responsible for this dramatic event was growing on the Kendrick Mountain trail in hard, dry, red soil, unprotected from the natural elements, browsing animals, or passing hikers. In this seemingly inhospitable environment, which closely resembled my garden at home, the plant stood 2 feet tall, ablaze with hundreds of tiny, yellow-orange blossoms, nearly hidden by a horde of hovering butterflies. It was magnificent! It took me a while, poring over my wildflower field guides, to identify this showy plant, but I finally discovered its true identity: Asclepias tuberosa, a variety of milkweed native to North America. Well, clearly, it was native to Kendrick Mountain!

In the years since that hike, I’ve grown butterfly weed in two gardens in Flagstaff. It isn’t hard to grow, but does require just a little patience. In the fall after we first spotted the plant on Kendrick, my husband and I went back to that same plant and collected some seeds. As with most milkweeds, the plant forms very large seed pods, which pop open when ripe, releasing thousands of tiny seeds, each attached to a white fiber which catches the wind and helps the seed float away from the parent plant, where it might grow without competition. We took a pinch of seeds – perhaps a dozen – and carried them home in a ziplock bag. I planted them in pots in a sterile seed starting mixture, and kept them barely moist for a few weeks until the sprouts appeared. We grew them in a sunny south-facing window, with a fluorescent light mounted over the pots, until the baby plants had several leaves and looked pretty sturdy. Then out in the garden they went. It took a couple of years for the plants to mature enough to bloom, but after that they grew bigger every year and put on a better show each summer. A couple of years after planting, I spotted my first ever Monarch butterfly fluttering through our neighborhood. Success!

Naturally, this only whetted my appetite for butterfly weed, and I didn’t want to have to climb Kendrick every time I needed more plants (besides being concerned about the obvious ethical issue of collecting seeds in the wild.) So I began looking for commercial sources. At that time, I was working as a volunteer at the Arboretum at Flagstaff. Although the native plant collection grown there included an enormous variety of wonderful plants, butterfly weed was not among them. I did buy some from a local grower later, but my first source of commercial plants was Plants of the Southwest (http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com). I’ve also found the plants at Flagstaff Native Plant and Seed. They seem to be catching on lately and are much easier to find. You can also find plants and seeds at Warner’s Nursery.

Here are the conditions butterfly weed requires: poor soil (got plenty of that!), lots of sunshine, and no irrigation after the first year. The plants produce a large tuberous root (like a carrot) which stores water to keep the plant supplied during droughts. While this root is very effective at supporting the plant, it does make it almost impossible to transplant. So it’s wise to plant the baby plants or seeds in a spot where you can leave them undisturbed. The plants die back completely in the winter and new sprouts emerge late in the spring. It may be helpful to mark their location with a weather-proof tag of some kind, to prevent anyone from disturbing the plants before they send up fresh leaves.

And what do you get for all your trouble (really, just benign neglect)? A sturdy attractive plant that comes back bigger and better year after year with no further care from you; Monarch butterflies gracing your garden; brilliant color and deep green foliage that complement many other landscape plants; and the pleasure of encouraging a beautiful and beneficial native plant in your home garden.

Do you have a gardeing question? Call the Master Gardener Hotline at 774-1868 ext. 19 and leave a message. A Master Gardener will research your problem and return your call within 72 hours.

By Alice Monet
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:36 AM

Bulbs

“Gardening has a magical quality…You plant dry brown bulbs in the fall, and they sleep through the winter while you forget them. But in the spring they remember to come up as bright yellow and purple crocuses”, Barbara Damrosch, Theme Gardens. And they also remember to come up as irises, daffodils, lilies, anemones, alliums, tulips, galanthus, fritillaries, dahlias, crocosmias, cannas, gladiolas, and ranunculus (ranunculae?).

For many Flagstaffians, spring arrives when the crocus bloom, peeking their colorful, petite heads from under the cover of snow. A secret world of surprising color and endurance lies under the ground if you have planted bulbs the previous fall. And what makes this colorful world even more enticing is that most bulbs are very easy to grow and, if planted correctly, can provide an entire summer of blooms with very little water. Some very basic rules ensure even beginners can create a beautiful bulb garden.

First, bulbs do not like to sit in water as they will quickly decay and perish. Plant them in soil that drains well and is somewhat rich in organic matter but don’t obsess about soil content as bulbs have their own internal food and water storage system encased in each bulb. Many bulbs come from the Mediterranean where winters can be cold and moist but summers are warm and dry. Hmmm….sound familiar? Still other bulbs hail from wooded regions where they bloom in spring before the forest canopy leafs out and hides sunlight necessary for most bulbs. Bulbs are well adapted to the vagaries of weather patterns that fluctuate uncontrollably and can endure long periods of hostile weather waiting for the arrival of a few favorable days when they can put on their show.

Second, since we do have ground squirrels and other adorable critters who love to banquet on bulbs - I have found they always favor the most expensive ones – you may wish to plant your bulbs in wire cages to save them from these voracious appetites.
Also, because bulbs are efficient, self-contained storehouses of energy, always allow the leaves on the plant to remain until they have yellowed and died. Leaves are removed while green you interrupt the photosynthetic process that allows the plant to manufacture and store energy for the following season.

Finally, select bulbs labeled as ‘hardy’ if you want to keep your work to a minimum. These bulbs require a cold dormant season and do not have to be uprooted and stored indoors. They necessitate a good mulching their first season and, in following winters, mulching helps ensure their survival. You can plant most hardy bulbs from late summer until just prior to the ground freezing.

For an early to mid-spring flowering garden select from most windflowers (Crocus species), anemones, snowdrops (Galanthus), some tulip species, grape hyacinths (Muscari), and many narcissus, ranunculus, and anemone species. Choose different heights and colors and for a natural appearance simply mix all your bulbs together and throw handfuls out in the area you wish to plant them. Then simply plant them at the appropriate depth where they fall. Remember that some bulbs naturalize – that is, they spread each year so give them plenty of space to ‘do their thing’.

For a late spring to summer garden, plant most irises and lilies; the Stella de Oro and the Happy Returns lilies do well here. Also look for summer blooming tulips, alliums and many lilies. Then if you wish to extend your flowers into fall consider fall-blooming crocus (Crocus niveus, longiflorus), and some lilies (Lilium formosanum, speciosum).
Start planning your bulb gardens now as it will soon be time to plant them in the ground and then impatiently wait for next year’s scenic show!

(from Alice)
It’s “prime time” for bulbs. This almost goes without saying, but while you’re busy planting all those perennials in your garden, don’t forget to add a few more spring-blooming bulbs. Daffodils need time to grow more roots before the ground freezes, so they should be planted early in the fall. I’ve actually planted tulips in December, and one time I didn’t get them in until January, and they still did just fine. Of course, as the ground gets colder, it becomes more difficult to dig those deep holes, so planting bulbs before Thanksgiving is better for all concerned.

By Hattie Braun
- The author is the Master Gardener program coordinator for Coconino County

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:33 AM

Blue Grama and Blue Corn

Season’s greetings from The Arboretum at Flagstaff. We hope that you had a fine Thanksgiving, with plenty of good things to eat, and plenty to be thankful for in 2004. We hope to see you here at The ARB next Saturday, December 4, for our annual Holiday Sale and Celebration. Admission and refreshments are free. A wide variety of handcrafted gifts, scented geraniums, and seeds will be for sale.

With snow piling up on the peaks (many thanks!), and with the winter solstice only a month away, a gardener’s thoughts turn to the lessons learned from last year’s growing season, and to dreams and plans for 2005. Learning lessons from the land and using this knowledge to plan for next year is vital to being a gardener. Learning by doing keeps us going; in some ways it’s the heart of the gardening process. Gardens teach us, thus supplying constant inspiration and refreshment. Sometimes they even give us the food and energy we need.

This was certainly how it worked for us at The Arboretum in 2004. We learned a lot by growing many different native plants, especially grasses, and even managed to harvest some good local food, perfect for celebrating Thanksgiving.

At The ARB we steward many of the Colorado Plateau’s native grasses, wild and domesticated, perennial and annual. When the summer monsoon began this year, we restored four native grass demonstration plots by planting new native grass/wildflower mixes.

Two plots were planted with a custom “High Altitude” mix donated to us by High Country Gardens in Santa Fe. This mix includes twenty-five different grasses and wildflowers of the Intermountain West, including Arizona fescue, Idaho fescue, mountain muhly, prairie junegrass, and small-flowered penstemon.

Two other beds were planted with custom mixes donated to us by our friends at Flagstaff Native Plant and Seed. The “Flag City Limits” bed includes needle and thread grass and tailcup lupine. The “East of the Peaks” bed includes sideoats grama and Indian ricegrass. To reflect local and regional differences, each bed contains a distinct kind of soil. All four beds are growing at least some blue grama, a “keystone” Southwestern grass species.

These mixes all germinated strongly and are doing great. We’re looking forward to watching and learning as they grow and flower in 2005.

Last summer we also planted maize or corn, a domesticated annual grass. Maize belongs to the grass family that includes our native muhlies, fescues, and gramas. Indigenous American horticulturists created corn several thousands of years ago by selectively breeding a wild perennial grass.

Like blue grama, corn is also an important native plant of the Colorado Plateau. Hopi gardeners have grown locally adapted maize varieties for thousands of years. From Apache to Zuni, maize is central to the Colorado Plateau’s indigenous cultures.

Because it enjoys the Plateau’s warmer middle elevations, and because I’d had success growing this delicious, drought-tolerant variety during my years of gardening in Albuquerque’s South Valley, we decided to try growing Hopi blue corn at Southside Community Garden. Surrounded by concrete and asphalt, Southside is located in an especially warm urban microclimate. Our friend Michael Kotutwa Johnson, a citizen of the Hopi Nation, gave the seeds to us.

Hoping to avoid a hard late freeze, we waited patiently and planted three different experimental plots in early June. All three grew well, but the bushiest, healthiest corn plants were located in a raised bed. The other two plots were located in basins. In the Southwest’s hottest, driest elevations, indigenous farmers use basins for conserving water and concentrating soil nutrients.

Based on our experience at Southside, and other observations, we’ve come to believe that raised beds are better than basins for growing warm-season plants like corn, at least in the Southwest’s higher elevations. Colder air sinks into basins, even small, shallow ones, slowing plant growth. Plants growing in elevated beds or on berms, especially if south-facing, soak up and hold slightly more heat, invigorating growth. We’ve observed this effect here at The ARB, where warm-season buffalograss grows vigorously only on the top edge of the Turf Demonstration Garden’s south-facing berm. (Watch where the snow melts first after a storm; these spots are usually east- or south-facing microclimates.)

Unfortunately, we didn’t harvest as many ears of Hopi blue corn as we had hoped. A relatively cool summer diminished the urban microclimate effect, slowing the plants’ growth, and then a mid-September hard freeze stopped many plants from fertilizing or maturing their ears. During August, we also admired the green lushness of our bushy plants so much that we forgot to thin our plots sufficiently. Along with the relatively cool summer, not thinning more aggressively also slowed the plants’ growth.

Even so, we are thankful to have harvested several beautiful ears of blue corn, and we are seriously thinking of planting this variety again next growing season, but only in raised beds. We’ll try planting our seeds a week or two earlier, in late May, giving the plants more time to produce fertilized ears before the first frost. We’ll also force ourselves to do some thinning!

Although our urban “milpa” (cornfield) was not superabundant in terms of yield, it was very successful because we learned so much.

By Patrick Pynes
- The author is the Gardens Manager at The Arboretum at Flagstaff, has a Ph.D. in American Studies from the University of New Mexico, and has been gardening in the Southwest since 1989.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:29 AM

Basil

The hailstorm that we received two weeks ago was without a doubt my toughest gardening challenge yet. Within a matter of minutes, most of our vegetable garden looked liked it had been put through a blender. Shredded were the cucumbers, Swiss chard, kale beans, lettuce, and zucchini. (Ok, so maybe that latter trashing was a blessing!) But the saddest loss of all was the basil plants. The basil - the essence of our summer garden - was stripped down to just battered stems.

But wait, what started to appear just a few days after this onslaught of nature? Tiny greens leaves! Our basil plants may have been pummeled but the growing points were still alive. Provided we don't experience another hailstorm, the plants will soon yield enough leaves for a generous batch of pesto.

Basil is the perfect solution for our short, 90-day growing season as it matures in 60 to 80 days. And since you only harvest the leaves, there is no need to wait for fruit to mature. And, as in my garden, it will quickly recover from our all too common hailstorms.

Despite the difficulties we face with gardening at 7,000 feet, I encourage gardeners to give this summer herb a try. At the grocery, fresh basil costs between $10 and $20 a pound. Yet, you can grow it for next to nothing. Once spring is under way, basil is wonderfully easy to grow. It needs little more than a pot on a sunny deck, or a small space in a garden bed, to be happy. At our house, we devote several spots in the garden to basil: we tuck it between tomato plants, we edge the garden with it, we plant it in containers. Basically, we squeeze in as many extra plants in the garden as we possibly can.

As an annual, basil turns black at the first frost. While it's too late to start plants for this summer, plan your garden area now for planting in the spring. Unlike many of the Mediterranean herbs that thrive poor, dry soil, basil requires a loose and fertile soil, and regular water. The latter is particularly important in the spring when you are trying to get plants established. And full sun is a must. Young plants need to be spaced about 10 inches apart to produce strong, robust plants with plenty of leaves for picking. The plants that you buy at the nursery are usually bunched a dozen or so to a 4 inch pot. By separating the plants and planting them individually, you will get much better results.

If you can't wait until next spring to get started, try growing basil indoors this winter. All you need is a sunny, south-facing window, or a sunroom. Given ample light, plants will continue to produce leaves all winter.

Until that dreadful hailstorm, our family has been enjoying the basil harvest for most of July and August. Often the plants will continue producing leaves until the first fall frost. Our trick to a continuing basil crop is to pick the mature leaves every couple of days, and to pinch the flower spikes on a regular basis to prevent plants from going to seed. For an annual plant like basil, setting seed means an end to leaf production. Cutting only the mature leaves and trimming back the plant can actually stimulate growth. Rapid leaf production is good news for hail damaged plants and helps the plants to quickly recover.

A gardening friend in Camp Verde, learning of my basil woes, presented me with a garbage bag full of just picked basil. The stems were so long and the leaves so huge that the plants looked as if they were grown with steroids. Actually, jumbo-sized plants are the norm for basil when grown somewhere other than Flagstaff. Her success with basil is due in part to the hotter days and warmer nights that occur at lower elevations. We probably will never be able to grow giant basil plants like hers, but we can still enjoy this wonderful summer herb. Just this week we picked our first red tomatoes, ripe just in time to serve with a new crop of basil.

By Hattie Braun
The author is the coordinator for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and a Master Gardener. For more information about the Master Gardener program, call 774-1868 ext. 17.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:26 AM

The Arboretum at Flagstaff

Season’s greetings from The Arboretum at Flagstaff. We hope that you had a fine Thanksgiving, with plenty of good things to eat, and plenty to be thankful for in 2004. We hope to see you here at “The ARB” next Saturday, December 4, for our annual Holiday Sale and Celebration. Admission and refreshments are free. A wide variety of handcrafted gifts, scented geraniums, and seeds will be for sale.

We’ve already trimmed this year’s Christmas tree. It’s a six-foot living pinon pine (Pinus edulis), purchased from our friends at Flagstaff Native Plant and Seed. During the holidays, this beautiful tree will live in the Reichardt House. In springtime, we look forward to planting this pinon somewhere in our gardens.

This tree may be planted in a well-drained, south-facing slope near the entrance to the “Pond Pavilion.” Pinons prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Our new drought-tolerant conifer will be living slightly above the pinon’s natural range, but the south-facing slope and nearby rocks should create the warmer microclimate it will need to survive Sinclair Wash’s below zero winter nights.

The new Pond Pavilion—an exciting outdoor classroom—will be completed during 2005. So far we’ve completed construction of “Stonehenge,” a natural doorway into the pavilion. Using massive native boulders, Facilities Manager Tomas Robison and designer/stonemason Pieter Schaafsma built Stonehenge in early Autumn. We’ve already discovered that it’s a great place to sit and soak up the winter sun.

With snow piling up on the Peaks (many thanks!), and with the winter solstice only a month away, a gardener’s thoughts turn to the lessons learned from last year’s growing season, and to dreams and plans for 2005. Learning lessons from the land and using this knowledge to plan for next year is vital to being a gardener. Learning by doing keeps us going; in some ways it’s the heart of the gardening process. Gardens teach us, thus supplying constant inspiration and refreshment. Sometimes they even give us the food and energy we need.

This was certainly how it worked for us at The Arboretum in 2004. We learned a lot by growing many different native plants, especially grasses, and even managed to harvest some good local food, perfect for celebrating Thanksgiving.

At The ARB we grow, steward, and celebrate many of the Colorado Plateau’s native grasses, wild and domesticated, perennial and annual. When the summer monsoon began this year, we restored four native grass demonstration plots by planting new native grass/wildflower mixes. They all germinated strongly and are doing great. We’re looking forward to watching them grow and flower in 2005.

Last summer we also planted Zea mays (maize or corn), a domesticated annual grass. Maize belongs to the same botanic family (Poaceae) that includes our native muhlies, fescues, and gramas. Indigenous American horticulturists created corn several thousands of years ago by selectively breeding a wild perennial grass.

Like the pinon, corn is also a native plant of the Colorado Plateau. Hopi gardeners have grown locally-adapted maize varieties for thousands of years. From Apache to Zuni, maize is central to the Colorado Plateau’s indigenous cultures.

Because it enjoys the Plateau’s warmer middle elevations, and because I’d had success growing this delicious, drought-tolerant variety during my years of gardening in Albuquerque’s South Valley, we decided to try growing Hopi blue corn at Southside Community Garden. Surrounded by concrete and asphalt, Southside is located in an especially warm urban microclimate. Our friend Michael Kotutwa Johnson, a citizen of the Hopi Nation, gave the seeds to us.

Hoping to avoid a hard late freeze, we waited patiently and planted three different experimental plots in early June. All three grew well, but the bushiest, healthiest corn plants were located in a raised bed. The other two plots were located in basins. In the Southwest’s hottest, driest elevations, indigenous farmers use basins for conserving water and concentrating soil nutrients.

Based on our experience at Southside, and other observations, we’ve come to believe that raised beds are better than basins for growing warm-season plants like corn, at least in the Southwest’s higher elevations. Colder air sinks into basins, even small, shallow ones, slowing plant growth. Plants growing in elevated beds or on berms, especially if south-facing, soak up and hold slightly more heat, invigorating growth. We’ve observed this effect here at The ARB, where warm-season buffalograss grows vigorously only on the top edge of the Turf Demonstration Garden’s south-facing berm. (Watch where the snow melts first after a storm; these are usually east or south-facing microclimates).

Unfortunately, we didn’t harvest as many ears of Hopi blue corn as we had hoped. A relatively cool high altitude summer diminished the urban microclimate effect, slowing the plants’ growth, and then a mid-September hard freeze stopped many plants from fertilizing or maturing their ears. During August we also admired the green lushness of our bushy plants so much that we forgot to thin our plots sufficiently. (This bushiness is an adaptation to aridity and wind). Along with the relatively cool summer, not thinning our plots more aggressively also slowed the plants’ growth.

Even so, we are thankful to have harvested several beautiful ears of blue corn, and we are seriously thinking of planting this variety again next growing season, but only in raised beds. We’ll also plant our seeds a week or two earlier—in late May, if possible--giving them more time to produce fertilized ears before the first hard frost.

Although our urban “milpa” (cornfield) was not superabundant in terms of yield, it was very successful because we learned so much.

--Patrick Pynes, Gardens Manager at The Arboretum, has a Ph.D. in American Studies from the University of New Mexico, and has been gardening in the Southwest since 1989.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:24 AM

The Year of the Apple

This should be declared “The Year of the Apple” in Flagstaff. At least in our neighborhood near downtown, every apple tree is sagging under the weight of ripening fruit. Some of these trees bear fruit so rarely, I didn’t even realize they were fruit trees -- until now. Folks who’ve been growing apple trees for years in Flagstaff will tell you that the typical apple tree bears fruit about once every five years. Some varieties that are better suited to our peculiar climate will bear once every three years. This year, they all seem to be laden with fruit. What happened?

We can begin our search for an answer by looking at the steps required for growing apples in Flagstaff. The first and foremost is to select varieties that are well suited to the local climate. Many fruit and nut trees have something called “a chilling requirement.” All this means is that they need a certain number of hours each winter when the air temperature is between 32˚F and 45˚F. The chilling requirement is different for each variety of apple. For example, Golden Delicious trees require 850 hrs of chilling, whereas the variety Anna gets by with just 200. Fortunately, many popular varieties have chilling requirements that are met by our long, cold winters. These include Red and Golden Delicious, Gala and Granny Smith, Jonathan and Jonagold, to name a few. I’ve heard that Winesaps also do well here, which is wonderful because it is one of my favorites from my childhood home near the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. If you want to know about other varieties that are suited to our climate, or have any other questions about growing fruit trees, a good place to call is Coconino County Cooperative Extension here in Flagstaff, at (928) 774 1868 ext. 17.

Assuming you’ve chosen a suitable variety and bought a fine healthy specimen from a local nursery or mail-order catalogue, the next step is to provide a good site and excellent soil. The soil must have good drainage. You can test this by doing a very simple drainage test. Dig a hole that is at least 12-inches wide and 12-inches deep (more is better here) and fill it with water. After an hour, fill it again. Now wait 24 hours and see if the water has drained away. If so, all is well. If it takes 24 hours to drain, that’s still OK. If more time is required, don’t plant your tree there! Alternatives are to choose another site and repeat the test, build a raised bed, or plant in a container above the soil level.

Planting the tree is fairly straightforward. Dig a hole 3-5 times wider than the root ball and the same depth. Avoid digging a deeper hole because the tree can be planted too deeply, or sink later on. This could easily cause the buried trunk to rot and die. Place the tree in the hole and spread out its roots. Backfill with the soil you removed from the hole. Tamp the soil firmly around the roots and water well. No soil amendments are required or recommended. Enriching the soil in the planting hole will only encourage the roots to remain close to the original root ball, instead of growing out through the soil and forming a healthy base for the tree.

Now comes patience. Most apple trees won’t set fruit until they reach maturity, which may take several years. Dwarf apples mature in 2-3 years, semi-dwarf in 4-6, and full-size or standard apples need 6-10 years to reach bearing age.

All the factors we’ve looked at so far are the same from year to year. What remains to discuss, of course, is the weather. The weather in Flagstaff is such a challenge to local gardeners, it’s a wonder anyone has the endurance to garden here at all! It is particularly hard on growers of fruit trees because of two typical springtime weather events: the late hard-freeze, and ferocious westerly winds. Each of these alone can wreck an apple crop. The fact that springtime here often features both explains why apple trees so seldom bear fruit. Just as those sweet-scented, tender blossoms open in April, a frigid air mass swoops down on us from the Arctic and zaps them all. If, by some miracle, a few flowers survive, the scouring west winds arrive and blow them right off the tree.

What’s a fruit grower to do? If your apple trees are dwarf varieties, and you get sufficient warning of an impending freeze, you might be able to protect your trees by draping a plastic sheet over them while the air is still warm. Just make sure to remove the sheet the next day, or your trees may cook when the sun shines on them again. You can shield your trees from the wind by planting them to the east of a tall fence, wall, or tall-growing hedge. Windbreaks are helpful for all kinds of plants here in Flagstaff and should be used in your garden whenever possible.

What made this year special? What accounts for the bumper crop of apples? I’ve examined the weather records on the National Weather Service website and they tell a surprising story. Last winter hung on just a little longer than normal. The average temperature in February was 27.2˚F, a full 5 degrees below the normal average of 32.2. But when spring arrived, it stayed. In town, the last really cold day was March 1st. After that, there were no more hard freezes. And while there were some windy days in April and May, I bet they occurred after the fruit were set.

So while there’s a lot we can do to improve our chances of a good apple crop, in the end it is Mother Nature who decides who wins or loses. This year, patient and persistent apple growers all over Flagstaff are winning big. Enjoy!

By Alice Monet
The author has received training through the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and is a Master Gardener volunteer for Coconino County.

Posted by maxmaddy at 5:20 AM

January 7, 2006

Flagstaff Perennial Edible Plant List

Coconino College permaculture instructor Josh Robinson is putting together a list of edible perennial plants that produce food in Flagstaff and your contributions are needed. The full text of his e-mail asking for input, originally posted on the Flagstaff permaculture listserve (flagstaffpermaculture@yahoo.com), follows:

I have been thinking a lot lately about living sustainably in Flagstaff and what that takes. Permaculture, in essence, is about living sustainably in a particular place. What is sustainable in one place such as New York or even other places in Arizona such as Camp Verde might not be sustainable here on the Colorado Plateau and Flagstaff. Growing food is one aspect that is certainly site specific. And this is where I see a huge lack of concrete knowledge. Many of the long traditions of growing food in the region have been lost and yet many of us are still growing food and trying out crops that we would like to get to grow here in Flagstaff. But for the most part this individual knowledge of what is working and what is not in our area is not being shared with the wider community. The permaculture listserve (flagstaffpermaculture@yahoo.com) was designed to help share these sorts of resources.

What has occured to me is that we as a community do not know what really works here in Flagstaff. I am thinking particularly about fruit, nut, and other perennial crops. Flagstaff is notorious for late frosts and poor fruit displays. I also know that many of you out there are trying out different crops and some people are getting fruit, nuts, and other bounties of perennial foods. I think we as a community need to document what sort of foods are being harvested. I see this being a very important tool in gaining the knowledge to live sustainably in our region. How?

This year was a poor year for apples and other fruit trees, but I know people in Flagstaff grew and harvested some fruit. At my house we harvested a few strawberries and some raspberries. I am sure other people harvested other fruits. If we can find out what sorts of fruits people were able to harvest this
year in a poor fruiting year, we can plant more of these sorts of fruits so that in other poor fruit years we will still get a harvest.

The idea is that if we know what plants work in good years and in bad Flagstaff years, we will always have a crop to harvest. I am willing and wanting to compile a listing of perennial crops that people are growing here in Flagstaff. What I need you to do is to let me know what fruits, nuts, and other perennial crops you harvested
this year. If we do this every year, imagine the total accumulated knowledge that we will learn about growing food in Flagstaff. The more people the better our collective knowledge will be.

So here is what I need:

Information on what perennial fruit, nut, and other that you harvested this year. Please include if possible the genus, species, variety/cultivar, what sort of location it what in (sun, shade, etc.), and what part of town that it was growing. Feel free to include any other information about the plant that you can.

Also PLEASE PASS THIS REQUEST ONTO YOUR OTHER GARDENING BUDDIES HERE IN FLAGSTAFF SINCE THE
MORE PEOPLE WE HAVE RESPONDING THE BETTER.

I will compile this information and make it available to the public so that in future years we can always harvest the bounty even in years of late frosts and long winters.

Thanks,
Josh Robinson
rolling_stone123@yahoo.com

Posted by buscoj at 11:47 AM | Comments (0)

January 3, 2006

Evening Garden Club/January Topic House Plants

All gardeners and wannabe gardeners are invited to discuss house plants and share cutting when the Evening Garden Club meets on Saturday morning, January 21 at 10 a.m. in the home of a member. For location and driving directions send your name and email address to Garden@npgcable.com

Posted by hockmanj at 2:08 PM

Master Gardener Training Course

Applications are now being accepted for the 2006 Coconino County Master Gardener Training Course. This course is part of a nation-wide certification program that provides horticulture training to volunteers for the purpose of enabling them to help their communities through horticulture education. The course starts February 2 and runs thru May 11. Class meets on Thursdays from 1:30 to 4:30 at the East Flagstaff Community Library.

The Master Gardener Training Course is designed for those who are interested in learning more about high elevation gardening and who are willing to share this knowledge with others. Participants will learn the keys to successful gardening in high elevation environments. The course covers basic botany, soils, plant propagation, plant problem diagnosis, insect management, pruning, fruit tree care, vegetable gardening, Xeriscape, ornamental plants, composting, and arboriculture.

The Master Gardener course will meet Thursdays from 1:30-4:30 p.m. February 2 thru May 11 at the East Flagstaff Community Library. Registration for the program is $200 with a $50 rebate for completion of the volunteer portion of the program.

After completing the course, Master Gardeners complete 50 hours of volunteer service. Possible projects include: answering �hotline� questions, writing articles for the newspaper, assisting local schools and non-profit organizations with gardening expertise, propagating plants for revegetation projects, or volunteering at an arboretum. After completion of the 14 classes and your volunteer hours, you will be awarded the title of Certified Master Gardener.

Contact Cooperative Extension at (928) 774-1868 ext. 10 to request an application or for more information. Class size is limited. Applications must be received by Jan 20.

Posted by hbraun at 9:08 AM

January 2, 2006

The Evening Garden Club

The Evening Garden Club is a loosely organized group of gardeners who share information and ideas. In the summer months we visit private gardens in the Flagstaff area. Winter meetings focus on specific topics. There are no dues. Members volunteer to arrange the tours and topics. A coordinator emails announcements. To receive email announcements of activities send your name and email address to Garden@npgcable.com.

Posted by hockmanj at 7:59 PM